• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.866-877
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.733-741
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• 2006

This study was to investigate categories of valuation and make the standard on developing valuation of natural dyes by Delphi method. The three-round Delphi tests were performed with 36 professional in the academic, the industrial, and the art field.'Dyeability property' meant levelling, adsorption, color diversity with mordant, color stability, 'marketability', possibility of mass production, economical efficiency, functionality, demand and supply of natural dyes, 'color', yield, beautiful color, value of color and 'color fastness', washing, perspiration and light fastness. Indigo, persimmon, cochineal, safflower and onion in dyeability property were evaluated highly, functional natural dyes in marketability, red and purple color ones except indigo in color and ones containing tannin in color fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.283-289
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• 2001

Shrink resist finishing of wool fabric was carried out with Monoethanol aminesulphite (MONAMIN BTN) shrink resist agent after chlorination with Dichloro isocyanuric acid (DCCA). The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of treating conditions, such as concentrations of DCCA and MONAMIN BTN, pH of treating bath, dyeing times, curing times and temperatures, on dyeing property of wool fabrics. K/S values and fastness properties of dyed wool fabrics were measured. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually with increasing concentration, and decreased with increasing curing time. The optimum dyeing time and curing temperature were 60 min and $140^{\circ}C$, respectively. Also it seems likely that the shrink resist finishing carried out at 3% (o.w.f.) of MONAMIN BTN and pH 7 of resin treating bath is effective in increasing K/S values. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the treatment conditions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.669-676
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• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.106-117
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• 2018

The present study was conducted to investigate dyeing properties and functionality of silk fabrics dyed with extracts from buckwheat skin. Comparative results of color strength(K/S) values of dyed silk fabrics were studied to quantify the effects of dye concentrations, dyeing temperatures, dyeing time and the pH; the effect of mordants; and color changes. And also evaluated the fastness, antimicrobial property, ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The color strength(K/S) values of silk generally increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time. And the highest color strength values were obtained at a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, a dyeing of time 80 minutes, and a dyebath of pH 2. The color fastness to light of dyed and mordanted silk fabrics were found to be good, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were excellent. The fade of washing fastness was not good, however, the stain of washing fastness and perspiration fastness showed relatively good grade. The Al, Cu, Fe mordanted silk fabrics(except Fe for Klebsiella pneumoniae) showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the mordanted fabrics were generally improved. Moreover, the Cu and Fe mordnared fabrics showed very exceptional ultraviolet protection factors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.320-330
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing are $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics were dyed in pre-mordanting. The K/S value of dyeing fabrics could be increased with repetitive dyeing and mordanting. Compared to untreated dyed fabrics, the K/ S values of fabrics which had been treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were increased. The changed surface colors of fabrics that were treated with soybean milk, chitosan and gall nut tannin were Y, YR and achromatic colors. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color. Sn-mordanted fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed vivid yellowish color, and Cu-mordanted fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed yellowish green color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness was level 4. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing of the fabrics. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the powder of guava leaf extract and the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

Natural dye extracted from Salicornia bigelovii was applied to silk fabrics by dip dyeing process. The dyeing properties and the functionalities of the silk fabrics were determined. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as dyestuff concentration, temperature, time and pH were studied. The colorimetric parameters $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V/C values were measured to select the optimal mordanting conditions. The color-fastnesses of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were estimated for practical use; in addition, the antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties were evaluated. The dyeabilities of silk increased depending on the increasing dye concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. And optimum dyeing results were achieved when dyeing with 300% (o.w.f.) of dye concentration at $90^{\circ}C$ for 100 minutes and at pH 3. The dyed silk fabrics without mordants produced yellow (Y) color and showed yellow (Y) or green yellow (GY) colors depending on the mordants type. The light fastness of dyed and Al mordanted silk fabrics were found to be excellent, and the drycleaning and rubbing fastness were good. The dyed silk fabrics showed no antibacterial property, but Al and Cu mordanted silk fabrics showed 99.9% reduction rate. The ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed silk fabric was improved. And the ultraviolet protection properties of mordanted samples showed very good ultraviolet protection properties.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.107-121
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• 2003

This study was discussed the dyeing of wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract. The extracts of Chinese Scholar Tree was prepared in the condition of heating at $95{\pm}5C$, for 1 hour and cooling to 40C. And then the extracts of color matter treate with vacuum concentration at $60{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, 30mmHg and dried with spray dryer. The dyeing of wool and nylon fabric in this experiment was also employed the mordant dyeing method such as pre-mordant, post-mordant and simultaneous mordant method. The mordanting agents used in this study were as followings ; aluminium potassium sulfate, copper(II) acetate monohydrate, chromium potassium sulfate$.$$7H_2O$, Tin(II) chloride dihydrate, iron(II)sulfate $7H_2O$. For an evaluation of the dyeing property of the mordanting agents, the pre-mordant method, the repeat dyeing and the fastness of the light, dry cleaning, washing and rubbing measured respectively. From the results of the dye absorption, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract is at 80C dyeing temperature for 60 minutes. The optimum concentration of mordanting agent is Al, Cr, Sn 1%, Fe, Cu 2% solution. In general, the fastness property of the dyed wool and nylon fabrics had a comparatively high grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.69-81
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• 2014

Fabric made of 100% silk was dyed with Undaria pinnatifida extracts under different conditions such as varing colorant concentration, temperature, time and dyebath pH. The dye uptake (K/S, value), CIE L*,a*,b* and Munsell values of the dyed samples and mordanted samples were measured. Colorfastness, antibacterial property and UV protection property were also evaluated. As colorants concentration increased, the dye uptake increased progressively and maximum color strength was obtained at 100% V/V. Dye uptake also increased with increasing temperature and time, and the maximum color strength was obtained at $80^{\circ}C$ and 60min. With pre-mordanting, the color of the Al and Fe mordanted silk fabrics was yellow on the Munsell color system, while the Cu mordanted fabric was a greenish color. Al and Fe post-mordanted fabrics had a yellow tone, and the Cu post-mordanted fabric had a yellow greenish tone. The light fastness property of the Cu mordanted silk fabric was relatively good, The effect of Al and Fe mordanting on fastness was insignificant. The antibacterial activity of dyed and unmordanted silk fabric was excellent, whereas fabric dyed and mordanted with Undaria pinnatifida extract demonstrated superior ultraviolet protection.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.158-165
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing property and ultraviolet-cut ability on silk 100% and nylon 100% fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts. This study was investigated K/S values, surface color, washing fastness, dry cleaning fastness and ultraviolet-cut ability of the silk and nylon fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts under the various dyeing conditions. As mordanting were used Tin(II) Chloride dihydrate $(SnCl_2{\cdot}2H_2O)$, Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate$(CuSO_5{\cdot}5H_2O)$, Iron(II)Chloride$(FeC_2{\cdot}4H_2O)$. pH was adjusted by sodium carbonate$(Na_2CO_3)$ and formic acid(HCOOH). The optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH of the silk fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts were $90^{\circ}C$, 100min, and in the nylon fabrics were $90^{\circ}C$, 45min. It were colored(munsell value) 6.4Y 7.5/4.1 in the silk fabrics and colored 4.3Y 6.6/5.9 in the nylon fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts. Washing fastness and dry-cleaning fastness in the silk and nylon fabrics dyed with mordanting agent improved in $4{\sim}5$ grade. UV-A test showed that nylon fabrics a high rate of 92% with Rhus verniciflua extracts.