• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.52-68
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• 2007

[ $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ ]Look style has been showing up continuously since 1980s in the fashion world. In response to that, this study aimed to look into the trend of design in 1960s and examine the formative artistic characteristics in $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look in order to explore the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look of Andre Courregs. Following the flow of the times, the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$'s design has transformed and developed through the styles of the pants suit look, the space age look, the mini look and the sporty look. His own style constructed by simple line like a mini skirts, accurate rates, geometric patterns, high tech materials, vivid color and etc, in 1960s. He has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style was expressed by pure&avant-garde style, sporty&modern style, cheerful&reveal style and dynamic&funny style. Functionality with humor to $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ was an important element that expresses both youth and casual. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a futuristic sensibility is expressed in the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.192-205
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• 2011

This study analyzed the registration of patent and utility models by fashion firms in Korea. A total of 2,291 registration cases of IPC A41B-H from the period of 1996 to 2009 were collected by KIPRIS of the Korean Intellectual Property Organization (KIPO). All cases were analyzed by year to review the longitudinal trend and 481 cases of IPC A41B (shirts, underwear, baby linen, and handkerchiefs) and 1088 cases of IPC A41D (outerwear, protective garments, and accessories) were analyzed by content (provided benefit type and developing method), by detailed product items and the characteristics of the applicant. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Registration of IPC 41 increased steeply by the year (especially since 2006) and the patent registrations increased more than those in the utility model. 2) Analyzing the application content of A41B on the basis of benefit showed that 75% were to provide new functions and the rest were for health. In terms of the developing method, 83% of benefit provided by the application were by design development, 11.2% were by material, and the rest was by process, In the cases of IPC A41D, 23.6% were for safety and protection. In terms of the developing method, the process and material development were more frequently adopted than in the cases of A41B. 3) The major product types of A41B were socks, underwear, and infant wear, whereas gloves and parts of clothing were major items in A41D. 4) In terms of the characteristics of the applicant, registration by firms was greater for patents than for utility models and registration by foreigners increased in 2006 due to the complete opening of the retail market. 5) Fifteen universities registered for a total 57 cases and major applications were for IT related clothing or high-tech protective items.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.585-602
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.262-280
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes' body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.772-788
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• 2022

This study investigates whether the image of the casual Hanbok brand is being communicated to consumers successfully. We conducted a semantic network analysis to identify ways of revitalizing communication between casual Hanbok brands and consumers; in addition, we quantitatively evaluated the effectiveness of communication marketing through Quadratic Assignment Procedure (QAP) analysis. Unstructured data from 2014-2021 were collected through portal sites and then refined and networked. Our analysis showed that casual Hanbok brands generally target younger people and that different brands employ similar methods to promote and popularize the casual Hanbok style. Consumers tended to recognize and show interest in casual Hanbok, suggesting the potential to expand the market to Blue Ocean. However, some of our findings revealed the potential factors of style coordination risk and prejudice against existing Hanbok, which could potentially hinder casual Hanbok's uptake and adoption. We conclude that increasing the demand for casual Hanbok depends not only on delivering an accurate brand image to consumers but also on balancing fashion with traditional images when planning products and providing styling information.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.760-777
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• 2023

Fashion brands seek guidelines for effective green advertising messages, considering benefit appeals, brand types, and construal level. However, few studies have explored their simultaneous interplay. Thus, the present study conducted an experiment with a 2X2X2 between-subjects design to investigate how brand type and construal level moderate the mediating role of ad-brand congruency between benefit appeals and purchase intention. A total of 245 Millennials and Generation Z participants completed an online survey, and the data were analyzed using SPSS. A significant three-way interaction was revealed. Low-construal-level messages with concrete content showed disparities between aspirational and accessible brands concerning other-benefit appeals: Accessible brands utilizing other-benefit appeals demonstrated higher ad-brand congruency, while aspirational brands had lower ad-brand congruency. Furthermore, within aspirational brands, self-benefit appeals resulted in higher ad-brand congruency than other-benefit appeals. Finally, a moderated mediating effect was discovered, indicating that brand types and construal level moderated the mediating effect of ad-brand congruency between benefit appeals and purchase intention. The mediating effect was prominent in the context of self-benefit appeals, aspirational brands, and low-construal-level messages. This study highlights the intricate dynamics of the three factors in green advertising, providing valuable insights for crafting more targeted green advertisements.