• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.196-207
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• 2012

This paper aims to study the representation of basic design elements in patterns of fashion design by analyzing the examples and trends of how basic design elements have been represented in major collections of fashion designers, thereby contribute to enhancing the awareness of the importance of basic design elements in the field of fashion design education. In order to accomplish this goal, utilizing the fundamental concepts and principles of basic design elements, we have analyzed the examples and trends of representation of basic design elements, focusing on the design works of fashion designers from the 2000 collections to the 2010 collections that can be viewed to have been directly inspired by three basic design elements. The result of the analysis shows that there was a popular trend of emphasizing basic design elements as a design motif particularly from the 2000 s/s collections to the 2004 s/s collections. In these collections, we have found a wide range of design works that were inspired by the three basic design elements of dots, lines, and faces. Designers such as Jil Sander, Bill Blass, ..., etc. produced diverse designs that emphasized dots with various feeling of space, weight and texture. The collections by I.S.Suano Kuwahar, ..., etc. were based on the concept of coordinating the design element of lines with various textures. Vestium Officina, Loewe, ..., etc. produced the designs where faces were divided by lines in various ways and various forms of faces were decorated with diverse colors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.861-879
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• 2022

Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard's four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre-due to the development of photography technology and the photographer's artistry-appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photo-graphs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.397-416
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• 2024

This study investigated gender characteristics in contemporary virtual fashion design, focusing on avatars and genderless fashion in recent collections from Auroboros, Republiqe, Placebo Digital Fashion House, RTFKT, and Tribute. Employing content analysis within a theoretical framework of gender-related research, the study coded virtual avatars in terms of biological sex, appearance, and sociological perspectives. The results showed a preference for female-type avatars, through which androgynous aesthetics were embraced and traditional gender norms were challenged. Male-type avatars reflected experimentation with blending masculine elements, emphasizing inclusivity. Human-like avatars indicated a preference for designs that promoted inclusivity and, in the process, challenged binary classifications. The examined brands strategically capitalized on compromise, sensuality, and playfulness, thereby breaking away from traditional values to opt for more diverse styles. Genderless features combined elements from traditional men's and women's clothing, espousing sensuality and playful exaggeration. These findings signify a dynamic shift away from conventional gender standards to foster inclusivity and experimentation. They can serve as a reference for promoting creative strategies and design innovation, challenging the traditional gender perspective in the fashion industry. Implementing these strategies can lead to a more inclusive representation of fashion styles, encouraging critical thinking about gender norms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.139-154
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• 2002

This study selects mannequins. fashion models. and fashion photographs as communication media to express the beauty of an ideal body. Each medium is discussed by the denotative and connotative aspects through the semiology. First, the mannequins are the most concrete medium which can form women's ideal body types and reproduce images in which the idealistic human body are coded in various figures. It embodies such various figures of the modem society by being replaced with the symbolic representation of our intrinsic·extrinsic forms. From a denotative view, the mannequins can be explained by ideal body types and expressive tools. The mannequin has implied connotative meanings of the similarity and dissimilarity between the actual body and itself. Second, fashion models have played a role in transmitting fashion images and presenting the ideal body. As fashion has adopted the body as its object fashion models have been used to express an ideal body. The development of the mass media in the 20th century has defined the standard of the beauty, Both the relationship between fashion designers and fashion models. and the standardization of beauty and fashion models are reviewed from a denotative view. Fashion models imply connotative meanings of the figurative and the controlled property. Third, fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. The photographs could be adopted as proper means to express fashion. having realistic and practical expressional functions, and it can be said that the realistic and practical expressional function of photographs has served as a suitable means for express fashion, and fashion photographs are discussed. The fashion photograph has the reproducible and the symbolic property.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.139-148
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• 2010

As a designer, Rei Kawakubo had become one of the most influential woman of the 20th century. Comme des Garçons, which means "like boys"-what women in the early 1980s were least supposed to be-expressed criticism of the prevailing social construct of women and, importantly, of the very concept of fashion. The press had a field day with the so-called post Hiroshima look, with its aesthetic of destruction, poverty, and hunger and with its depressing mood engendered by the use of the color black. This research divided the change of design transition on Kawakubo's fashion by the three categories. The first category was experimental pattern, the second category was esthetics of omission and the third category was innovation of body consciousness. The costume messages through these design works of Kawakubo could summarize 5 items, punk sprit, beyond sex, reality, proposal of new body consciousness and representation of black.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.89-100
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• 1997

The formal constructions of deconstructive architecture in the contemporary fashion expressed as intertexruality, difference and trace and the working of DIS and DE, and intertextuality in deconstructive has manifested itself as the intertextuality of material, hybridization of items, the blending of modes and the bi-sexuality of sexes. And the difference and trace found in fashion are fantastic and playful and come to exist as historicity. DIS and DE in fashion shows the retrogression of gravity through non-structural silhouette. Their disentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in fuctional terms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.83-93
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the relationship between thought systems of post-structuralism by Deleuze and digital culture which is the core topic of social and cultural discussion. And this study also aims to grasp the diversity and movable thinking shown in fashion illustration from the aesthetic thought systems of post-structuralism theory by Deleuze. Furthermore, this study intends to ascertain the concrete representation characteristics and its significance of fashion illustration by analyzing works on the basis of the above-mentioned theory. What are discussed in this paper can be summarized as follows First, this study examined the post-structuralism which supplies the theoretic basis for figuring out the principles of diversity and movable thinking. Second, this study examined the relationship between the open structure and movable individuality of Deleuze who is a representative scholar of post- structuralism. Third, this study analyzed the representative characteristics and aesthetic value to which the principles of post-structuralism, derived from the aesthetic theory of Deleuze, was applied.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.13-25
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to show the analysis system and the expression which is applied to fashion illustration by three major components in visual sign, metaphor and metonymy. The results of this study were as follows : Firstly, metaphor in qualisign of syntactics was revealed as a color such as realistic description, a pattern such as clothing of figure. etc. Metonymy was revealed as a social and cultural background color, a concept pattern. etc. In sinsign of syntactics. metaphor was revealed as a human body, non-human body and metamorphosis human body and metonymy as a human body and non-human body. In legisign of syntactics, the metaphor by perspective was used for a fantasy of space. and the metonymy was revealed as a color perspective representation, etc. The degree of change of texture was revealed as a metaphor and metonymy of gradation. And conventional custom sign was almost revealed in metaphor. Secondly, semantics showed about fashion image as juxtaposition of two similar objects in metaphor and as real description and simplification in metonymy Alternative fashion image in semantics was presented as a object related to fashion image. Conventional symbolic sign was presented as a role to clarify a fashion message in metaphor. Thirdly, the metaphorical and metonymical expression in pragmatics were usually presented as drawing and painting.