• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.196-207
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• 2012

본 연구는 패션디자이너들의 작품에 표현된 문양에 있어서 기초조형 요소를 응용한 사례 및 경향을 연구분석함으로써 패션디자인교육 분야에서 기초조형의 중요성에 대한 인식을 제고하기 위해 수행 되었다. 이 목적을 수행하기 위하여 2000년대 이후 2010까지 패션디자이너들의 작품들 중에서 기초조형의 요소인 점 선 면에서 직접적으로 영감을 얻었다고 볼 수 있는 주요 작품의 경향과 특성을 조사하고 대표적인 작품들을 기초조형의 개념 및 원리를 바탕으로 분석하였다. 조사결과 특히 2000년 s/s콜렉션 이후 2004 s/s를 까지를 중심으로 기초조형의 기본요소를 기본 모티브로 한 다양한 작품들이 유행하였다. 디자이너 Jil Sander, Bill Blass 등은 점 구성을 위주로 공간감과 중량감, 질감을 변화한 작품을 보여주었다. I.S. Sunao Kuwahara, 등은 다양한 질감의 선과 선구성을 응용한 디자인을 보여주었다. Vestium Officina, Loewe, 등은 선을 통한 면 분할이나 다양한 색채를 사용한 면 구성을 위주로 한 작품들을 발표하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.861-879
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• 2022

Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard's four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre-due to the development of photography technology and the photographer's artistry-appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photo-graphs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.397-416
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• 2024

This study investigated gender characteristics in contemporary virtual fashion design, focusing on avatars and genderless fashion in recent collections from Auroboros, Republiqe, Placebo Digital Fashion House, RTFKT, and Tribute. Employing content analysis within a theoretical framework of gender-related research, the study coded virtual avatars in terms of biological sex, appearance, and sociological perspectives. The results showed a preference for female-type avatars, through which androgynous aesthetics were embraced and traditional gender norms were challenged. Male-type avatars reflected experimentation with blending masculine elements, emphasizing inclusivity. Human-like avatars indicated a preference for designs that promoted inclusivity and, in the process, challenged binary classifications. The examined brands strategically capitalized on compromise, sensuality, and playfulness, thereby breaking away from traditional values to opt for more diverse styles. Genderless features combined elements from traditional men's and women's clothing, espousing sensuality and playful exaggeration. These findings signify a dynamic shift away from conventional gender standards to foster inclusivity and experimentation. They can serve as a reference for promoting creative strategies and design innovation, challenging the traditional gender perspective in the fashion industry. Implementing these strategies can lead to a more inclusive representation of fashion styles, encouraging critical thinking about gender norms.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.139-154
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• 2002

This study selects mannequins. fashion models. and fashion photographs as communication media to express the beauty of an ideal body. Each medium is discussed by the denotative and connotative aspects through the semiology. First, the mannequins are the most concrete medium which can form women's ideal body types and reproduce images in which the idealistic human body are coded in various figures. It embodies such various figures of the modem society by being replaced with the symbolic representation of our intrinsic·extrinsic forms. From a denotative view, the mannequins can be explained by ideal body types and expressive tools. The mannequin has implied connotative meanings of the similarity and dissimilarity between the actual body and itself. Second, fashion models have played a role in transmitting fashion images and presenting the ideal body. As fashion has adopted the body as its object fashion models have been used to express an ideal body. The development of the mass media in the 20th century has defined the standard of the beauty, Both the relationship between fashion designers and fashion models. and the standardization of beauty and fashion models are reviewed from a denotative view. Fashion models imply connotative meanings of the figurative and the controlled property. Third, fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. The photographs could be adopted as proper means to express fashion. having realistic and practical expressional functions, and it can be said that the realistic and practical expressional function of photographs has served as a suitable means for express fashion, and fashion photographs are discussed. The fashion photograph has the reproducible and the symbolic property.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.26-33
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• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.139-148
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• 2010

As a designer, Rei Kawakubo had become one of the most influential woman of the 20th century. Comme des Garçons, which means "like boys"-what women in the early 1980s were least supposed to be-expressed criticism of the prevailing social construct of women and, importantly, of the very concept of fashion. The press had a field day with the so-called post Hiroshima look, with its aesthetic of destruction, poverty, and hunger and with its depressing mood engendered by the use of the color black. This research divided the change of design transition on Kawakubo's fashion by the three categories. The first category was experimental pattern, the second category was esthetics of omission and the third category was innovation of body consciousness. The costume messages through these design works of Kawakubo could summarize 5 items, punk sprit, beyond sex, reality, proposal of new body consciousness and representation of black.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.89-100
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• 1997

The formal constructions of deconstructive architecture in the contemporary fashion expressed as intertexruality, difference and trace and the working of DIS and DE, and intertextuality in deconstructive has manifested itself as the intertextuality of material, hybridization of items, the blending of modes and the bi-sexuality of sexes. And the difference and trace found in fashion are fantastic and playful and come to exist as historicity. DIS and DE in fashion shows the retrogression of gravity through non-structural silhouette. Their disentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in fuctional terms.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.83-93
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the relationship between thought systems of post-structuralism by Deleuze and digital culture which is the core topic of social and cultural discussion. And this study also aims to grasp the diversity and movable thinking shown in fashion illustration from the aesthetic thought systems of post-structuralism theory by Deleuze. Furthermore, this study intends to ascertain the concrete representation characteristics and its significance of fashion illustration by analyzing works on the basis of the above-mentioned theory. What are discussed in this paper can be summarized as follows First, this study examined the post-structuralism which supplies the theoretic basis for figuring out the principles of diversity and movable thinking. Second, this study examined the relationship between the open structure and movable individuality of Deleuze who is a representative scholar of post- structuralism. Third, this study analyzed the representative characteristics and aesthetic value to which the principles of post-structuralism, derived from the aesthetic theory of Deleuze, was applied.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to show the analysis system and the expression which is applied to fashion illustration by three major components in visual sign, metaphor and metonymy. The results of this study were as follows : Firstly, metaphor in qualisign of syntactics was revealed as a color such as realistic description, a pattern such as clothing of figure. etc. Metonymy was revealed as a social and cultural background color, a concept pattern. etc. In sinsign of syntactics. metaphor was revealed as a human body, non-human body and metamorphosis human body and metonymy as a human body and non-human body. In legisign of syntactics, the metaphor by perspective was used for a fantasy of space. and the metonymy was revealed as a color perspective representation, etc. The degree of change of texture was revealed as a metaphor and metonymy of gradation. And conventional custom sign was almost revealed in metaphor. Secondly, semantics showed about fashion image as juxtaposition of two similar objects in metaphor and as real description and simplification in metonymy Alternative fashion image in semantics was presented as a object related to fashion image. Conventional symbolic sign was presented as a role to clarify a fashion message in metaphor. Thirdly, the metaphorical and metonymical expression in pragmatics were usually presented as drawing and painting.