• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.153-168
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• 2023

Non-representation creates difference and change that can be used as a creative design method that satisfies contradictory requirements for similarity and differentiation. This study drew upon the characteristics of the concept of non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture, in which Gilles Deleuze's philosophical thinking was reflected, and analyzed the non-representation depicted in contemporary fashion. The non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture is as follows. Non-representation of delaying becoming focuses on reverting to preexisting objects and redefining traditional meaning, thereby delaying the representation of latent meaning. Non-representation of non-becoming removes existing values and typical forms and expresses amorphousness. Non-representation of becoming by repetition or reiteration realizes the difference caused by the passage of time by repeating or overlapping shapes. Non-representation of becoming expresses the transformation of space by flowing through time rather than by actual movement. Non-representation in contemporary fashion shows the following expression characteristics. First, the non-representation of deferring becoming deconstructs the traditional values and forms of clothing and expresses designs by displacement or juxtaposition. Second, the non-representation of non-becoming is expressed concepts unrelated to the body and focus upon amorphous objects that do not become concretized forms. Third, generative non-representation by repetition and overlap expresses the possibility of change by overlapping clothing items or details expressed by repeating segmented objects. Fourth, generative non-representation by movement reproduces the meaning of space and time by moving the shape of the clothing or visually changing the surface of the material of clothing. As a result of the study, the non-representation shown in contemporary fashion aims for versatility to conform to social changes. This study provides new insight into the fashion design method by increasing the understanding of the cocnept of non-representation and showing its potential.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.364-375
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the men＇s fashion with the representation of Feminization which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1990 though 2003. Firstly, the factor which exposed the representation of Feminization in men＇s fashion were the change of conventional sex role, the change of ideal beauty, the variety of information, the pursuit of personality and the polycentrism of thought. Secondly, the formative characteristics of Feminization in men＇s fashion represented fitted silhouettes which distinctively show the body line, elastic fabric and see-through fabric of androgynous image, accessory and wave hair which expressed in gentle image. In colors, it represented vivid tone, pastel tone, red colors and yellow colors. Fitted silhouttes and elastic fabric has a effect of minimalism of the last 1990＇s fashion, and wave hair of gentle image has a effect of change of ideal beauty since 2000. Therefore, elements of representation of Feminization in men＇s fashion were silhoutte, fabric, color, accessory, hairstyle and the representation of feminity in men＇s fashion has referance to fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.604-619
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• 2007

Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation and non-representation of the body in fashion. Theoretically, this study draws from Jean Baudrillard's Simulation theory which maintains that simulation develops the whole edifice of representation. My study substitutes the successive phases of the image to that of (non) representing body in fashion. The correspondences between them are; first, 'image is the reflection of a basic reality' for the representation of physicality, second, 'image masks and perverts a basic reality' for the manipulation of physicality, third, 'image masks the absence of a basic reality' for the absence of physicality, and fourth, 'image bears no relation to any reality whatever' for the absence of body in fashion. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.689-697
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the representation forms of bloggers' personal style on the fashion blogs and enlighten their values which can be actively applied to design and marketing in fashion industry. Image representation of fashion bloggers is reflected by the characteristics in the digital environment, which are the creative manipulation of expression and the production of virtual and fantastic images by taking advantage of the composite medium such as images, music, videos, articles, etc. Also real time updates in blog indicate the latest trends in terms of the representation of image as the actual currency. The study conducted case studies of 5 women's personal fashion blogs through the verification of a variety of global fashion media and blog ranking sites: Style Bubble, Style Rookie, The Cherry Blossom Girl, The Blond Salad, and Fashion Toast. Research findings are as follows. First, the application of creative design elements is indicated as symbolic items, self-made designs, DIY, and various mix and match emphasizing design elements such as color, patterns, proportion, etc. Second, the virtual representation is very highlighted on the story telling applied by film like production or digital effect. Third, the commercial application with mainly sponsored wardrobe and designer collaboration indicates promoting a updated trend as well as a specific brand or designer to make their business profits.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.200-212
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• 2009

Since the late of 20C, contemporary fashion have becoming enlargement between role and function of fashion through the combination and the deconstruction among various different spheres. Because multi-functional and trans-formal fashion transforms and extends original space and role toward any other fields through the morphologic and structural combination, this has been freed form the representational function pursuing more simple morphologic imitation, and becomes to change the space that is able to 'becoming' of Jill Deleuze. This paper intends to make a comparative study between the representation phenomenon about simple morphologic imitation of existing fashion design, and the becoming phenomenon of fashion focused on the change toward any other different object. This studies' conclusion as follows. 1) First representation imitates a lot of nature forms that are able to be restored any fixed form and picture. 2) Second representation is the representation of representation that re-imitates imitated object and art work. 3) Ontalogical becoming is classified with depaysement, self-presentation of fashion, morphing, and becoming the nature as a element.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.200-211
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• 2021

This study examines the effects of fashion influencers' body types (realistic versus ideal body types) on self-expression, self-representation, and recommendation intentions, as mediated by familiarity toward influencers. Although fashion influencers lead to a positive consumer response compared to traditional advertisements, previous research on the effects of fashion influencers on consumers is limited. Thus, this study tests the role of consumers' socio-psychological aspects in understanding how and why fashion influencers affect consumers' behavioral intentions associated with self-expression, self-representation, and influencer recommendation. A total of 180 women in their 20s and 30s participated in the survey. The responses were collected after showing them stimuli featuring fashion influencers with either ideal or realistic body shapes. The data were analyzed using SPSS18.0 for descriptive statistics, and AMOS 18.0 for confirmatory factor analysis and structural equation modeling. The results showed that participants who were shown realistic body types perceived familiarity, which generated positive effects on self-expression, self-representation, and recommendation intentions. Hence, the effects of influencers' body types on recommendation intention are mediated by familiarity. Self-expression and self-representation intentions also increase influencer recommendation intention. Comparatively, participants who were shown ideal body types only induced higher self-representation intention, which increased their recommendation intention. The current findings can help fashion marketers select the appropriate influencers who fit their target customers as promotional models, as well as to induce changes in consumers' behavioral intention.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.66-82
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1038-1050
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• 2015

This study is a theoretical research to investigate a methodological framework for analyzing the representation of women in fashion photography. For this study, this article attempts to develop a conceptual framework of the visual representation system through Lacan's gaze theory, and analyze the representational aspects of women configured by gendered characteristics in the visual representation system. Structuralizing the visual representation system based on that theory, the gaze, the image/screen, and the subject of representation in the Lacan's triangle diagram are replaced by the camera as the signifier of gaze, the representational image, and the seeing subject respectively. In the visual representation system, the camera creates a male-oriented visual field and structures a relationship of gendered power between male gaze as the seeing subject and female eye as an object to be seen. Looking into the representational aspects of women in this visual representation system structuralized by male gaze, women are represented in a way that reflects male desire through masquerade to comply with the patriarchal gaze, or differences that emphasizes the uniqueness and autonomy of women released from a patriarchal discourse. This study would be significant in that it provides theoretical basis for an analytic approach to the representation of women in fashion photography which we accept as a fixed one through the ideology of naturalization.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.85-98
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to pointed artistic representation design on fashion through observation, integrating of the formative arts. Above all, designing principle should be considered with trend, styling ,coloring. Suggested designing study is the essence of present methods. ① Clothing as an art ② Expression in fashion design ③ Creation of the artistic sense ④ The various techniques of design ⑤ Perform the steps of design (Ⅰ) ∼ (Ⅲ) That is to say, fashion is reflected in the spirit of painters as well as designers. Art is close and common relationship between individual will-to-form and the sense of value. Thus Art wear is represented the minute expression of designing the function with artistic originality. I submit some opinion and my studies. ① Forms of Formative Arts ② Analysis of the Silhouette & Design - - ③ Color scheme of Design ④ Artistic representation techniques - Knit wear design ⑤ Emotion of Beauty The results of this study were as follows : 1. Fashion design is demanded to do motivation by means of artistic representation. 2. Smart, sophisticated image effects, avoiding posterlike garish appearance. 3. It is supported for fashion information which is relating to design through industry society.