• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.183-196
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.327-340
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• 2015

Male skirt is found in traditional costumes all over the world. Due to the development of tailoring skills in the early Middle ages, men started wearing breeches and pantaloons gradually distinguishing the different characteristics of menswear and womenswear. Since then, skirt became the strong representation of the female gender, symbolizing the feminism. However, under the influences of technological development and diversification in 2000s, gender identity has been diversely expressed in modern fashion allowing male gender to embrace different sexual identities. The purpose of the study is to analyze the nature of male skirts, which have been popularized in modern men's fashion through both the expressional elements and compositional elements. This study associates design elements of male skirt, gradually appearing in the contemporary men's fashion with the sexual symbolism and reinterpreted it's significance in the flow of the modern fashion. Reinterpretation of the gender image in costumes are considered to contribute to the cultural context and extension in diversity. These research results forms a basic foundation to expand in studies of men's fashion design and gender image of costumes through cultural contexts and it's changes. It is considered that this can lay groundwork to make various attempts at passing over the archetype of the gender image besides the continuous appearance of male skirt in the field of fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.254-269
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• 2015

The digital technology that has brought about the information revolution acts as the causes of multi-faceted socio-cultural phenomena. The spread of the digital environment and the popularity of the digital devices accelerate the phenomenon or the fusion of culture and technology, and such a phenomenon is no exception in the fashion design. Namely, the combination of fashion design and digital-based technology draws more and more attention; Not only the technology is simply applied to the fashion design, but also it is used as an emotional tool to enhance consumers' satisfaction, while some designs and marketing cases stimulating consumers' emotion are highlighted importantly. This study was aimed at surveying and analyzing the contemporary fashion using the digital technology and thereupon, assessing the characteristics of the emotional representations of technology as well as their aesthetic values. To this end, the theory of 'science of emotion and sensibility' was applied to divide the characteristics of emotional technological expressions in the contemporary fashion into immateriality, non-boundary, multi-media and interaction, while the aesthetic values of the emotional technology immanent in the contemporary fashion were categorized into communication & participation, conceptual configuration, physical expansion and variable movement. This study analyzed uses of technology for human emotion and sensibility shown in not only collections but also communication media and exhibition spaces and thereby, suggested the direction for our fashion industry to fulfill consumers' changing needs and advance further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1384-1395
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the factors of hairdo attitude and hairdo involvement, the differences in the hairdo involvement by hairdo attitude. The questionnaires were given to female residents in Seoul and Kyung-gi do during September to October 2006. 406 questionnaires were used for data analysis. The collected data were analyzed using SPSS 12.0 software such as factor analysis, Cronbach's alpha, ANOVA test and Duncan test. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The hairdo attitude factors were found to be 'leader's fashion conformity', 'distinct individuality', 'constancy', and 'consciousness of others' The hairdo involvement factors were found to be 'interests in hairdo', 'fashionableness', 'symbolic representation', 'risk awareness', and 'coordination of hairdo'. 2. As for the hairdo attitude, two groups were identified as the highly-oriented group and the lowly-oriented group. There were significant differences in all hairdo involvement factors depending on two groups. Highly-oriented groups of 'leader's fashion conformity' considered more about interests in hairdo, fashionableness, symbolic representation, and coordination of hairdo, except for risk awareness, signalling that the more people respond to leader's fashion, the higher they are involved with hairdo. Highly-oriented group of 'constancy' showed significant differences in fashionableness and risk awareness. Lower level of fashionableness but higher level of risk awareness than the lowly-oriented group. Highly-oriented group of 'consciousness of others' displayed high performance in all factors, implying that the more people respond to feedback and evaluation of others, the higher they are involved with hairdo.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.29-40
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• 2002

Honor guards‘ dress represented by royal carriage parade. This thesis studies the ceremonial dress worn by the ceremonial troops during the Hwa-sung Hang-hang Ban-cha drawing (華城幸行班次圖) in the Chosun dynasty of King Jung-jo. The purpose of this study is to understand the national level ceremony by closely looking into the traditional ceremonial dress and the various signs that were used at these events thereby enhancing the cultural status of the Jung-jo King period. The Hwa-sung Hang-hang Ban-cha drawing(華城幸行班次圖) has its characteristics and also has commonality between the garments worn at these ceremonies. These garments are a traditional heritage brought down from many ages before and is a reflection of the changes that have occurred within our everyday life. Among these many records the Bancha-do(班次圖) is a representation of records that show what was worn by both nobles down to the ceremonial troops. The uniforms of the ceremonial troops were not only huge in size but also very diverse according to rank and grade. They used strong true colors with colorful flags, ceremonial items and musical instruments. These all added to the grandeur of the ceremony. The ceremonial flag was itself a symbol and was the core of the whole ceremony and parade. These ceremonial flags represented the heaven, sun, moon, hill and animals as well as supernatural gods. All these showed change in shape, color and content by age and time. Also the Yongmun Gichi(Dragon flag: 龍紋旗幟) is a supernatural being representing the power and wish of the ruler. The Chunsang-mun represents the indivisible relationship between man and heaven and also a metaphor for absolute power. A close look at ceremonial instruments show a direct representation towards power such as an axe, spear and sword and integrated with other large ceremonial items not only provided a shade but was also a representation of worship. These all were a more or less representation of authority. The musical instruments expressed the absolute authority of the ruler and maintained the marching order and also added grandeur to the parade. A summary of the ceremonial troops in the As seen above, these national ceremonies were a representation of the present power of authority and the will to rule. These ideas and the philosophy of “ruled by heaven” is represented here in the uniforms and the ceremony itself. The Bicentennial anniversary of the Nung - hang of February 1795 will be an excellent opportunity to show and inherit the tradition and recreation of our heritage. In this view we must look at the color and shape of traditional dress to be able to inherit and learn from our ancestors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2014

Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; 'muscular corset' takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.109-123
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• 2006

Cosplay is compound of 'costume' and 'play' and teenagerses disguise equally with populace star or cartoon master who like and it is typical culture of character generation as play that imitate to dress and hair style, gestures. Type of cosplay costume get devided as following according to cosplay object. Animation cosplay costume represent person who appear in cartoon and animation equally. Fan cosplay costume imitates entertainer or celebrity. Game cosplay costume represent character of internet on-line Same. Movie cosplay costume is more realistic than animation or game Character as that imitate moviestar. Character cosplay costume is used by commerce purpose brand or event. Characteristics that appeared commonly in types of cosplay costume are as following. First, cosplay costume is consisted of peculiar mechanism that cosplayer perform series progress such as work selection, design development, manufacture, production, acting alone in aspect of Performance costume. Second, according to cosplay object, degree of representation became different. Character is stronger, because the characteristic is emphasized, tendency that degree of reproduction becomes low showed. Third, cosplayer's distiction appeared according to material selection, design development method and analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.5-20
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• 2000

Through his geometric design, the Cyprus born fashion designer Hussein Chalayan raises intriguing questions about the very fact of wearing clothes. By purposefully displacing the function of each part of the clothing, such as neck line, hem line, seam, sleeve, etc., Chalayan transforms the meaning of the body that wears clothes. of the human subject as a sovereign possessor of the clothing and the visibility related to fashion. This transformation is achieved by distorting the spaces of his clothing in an unorthodox way. This thesis argues that the significance of such a practice can not be properly understood without relation to the current debate on deconstructionism under way in humanities. Instead of immediately negating the modern frame of Ideas and practices, deconstructionism asks what the assumptions for the modern regime of truth is. In this process, things that lead human beings to sovereign master of knowledge and truth such as reason, subject, body and vision are questioned. In the same context, Chalayan's design not only forces us to rethink the very function of dividing inside and outside by the clothing but also the meaning of boundary operating in numerous sites of modern life. As the human subject is not something pre-given but constructed according to the cultural representation, to which the clothing belongs, fashion can be evaluated to be an active ingredient of constructing the subject. Therefore, Hussein Chalayan's design is at the cross road between the modern and the postmodern regime of fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2012

The comic study which has been developed since the Eighteen century, is a subjective sense of the aesthetic concept and the aesthetics of comic is defined as a philosophy. The comic is opposite of the sublime or a superset of humor. This study investigated the aesthetics of comic and a popular graphic-print design on T-shirts. The research are the comic perspective on the aesthetic, expressive characteristics of the print design on T-shirt. And this study investigate literature and internet sites to extract data from the case studies. The aesthetic concept of the comic as an aesthetic category is defined as this study could inquire the comic cases expressed in t-shirts and graphic-prints on the emergence of historical change were discussed. Accordingly the three distinctions characterized as the parody, the optical illusion, the and the internet neologism. In conclusion, the aesthetic value graphic-prints on T-shirts appeared in the comic representation of the graphic-design of playfulness, extraordinariness, anti-nature, reflects popular culture is identified as.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.66-80
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• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.