• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.288-295
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• 1999

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties in tencel fabrics by repeated washing & shear and tensile deformation. The obtained results are as follows. After performing repeated shear tensile deformation, RT of tencel showed higher increase rate than that of cotton and rayon, whereas its WT and EM was a smaller decrease rate than that of them. This means that tencel's resistance to tensile deformation was the greatest. In the repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, tencel's 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5 showed a remarkable increase rate. In terms of deformation frequency, the greatest change rate appeared at the time of 1000 cycles of repeated shear tensile deformation and 15 times of repeated washing. In the hand value and THV, KOSHI showed a higher increase rate for tencel than for cotton and rayon in both repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, and NUMERI showed a higher increase rate. In the THV the change rate of rayon and cotton could be rarely seen but for tencel, it decreased. tencel's change rate of thermal insulation value by materials was 1.08%, and it increased as the washing frequency increased, compared to the grey fabrics, whereas the change rates of cotton and rayon were 0.74% and 0.22%, respectively. The qmax decreased in the order of cotton>tencel>rayon as the washing frequency increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.31-37
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the causes of clothes phenomenon of the ruling class women on the Heian period of Japan in the aspects of politics, economics, society, culture, and religion. The findings of the study are as follows. The main characteristics of the Heian period of Japan may include a rare sense of internationalism, low sense of nationalism, and frequent cases of political intrigue. However, noble culture, centered on royal court, was flourished and it enabled to develop sophisticated and graceful culture. During the Nara period and the Heian period (from $8^{th}$ to $12^{th}$ century), there were enormous changes in the clothes, starting from the mid $10^{th}$ century. The clothes of the ruling class in the Heian period underwent changes from the imitative clothes-imitating the clothes of the Tang age of China- to Japanesque clothes-adding the aesthetic consciousness of Japanese ruling class people. Particularly, the clothes of the ruling class women became massive, majestic, and decorative. The changed clothes had also features such as layered look, utilizing underwear as outer garments, using a wide variety of colors, and using hard and solid materials to make clothes. It can be concluded that the clothes of the ruling class people in the Heian period were affected by plural factors such as national and international political situation, economics, society, culture, and religion. The clothes were used by ruling class people as means of expressing their noble and sophisticated beauty, which led to produce humanistic beauty. The Heian period can be described as an era of the highest reach of humanity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.199-211
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• 2013

Glasses industry has great growth potential from the future-oriented perspective in Korea. In consideration of the fact that the ratio of aging population increases in this aging society, people have more and more interest in health. Also, their recognition on the cycle to change glasses is changing, and the utility of them as fashion items is increasing day by day, it is expected that the demand for glasses will be even more extended afterwards. Of course, presently it suffers from the gap between cheaper items and expensive ones provided by overseas prominent brands due to the bi-polarization of the market. However, they are pursuing the 2nd growth as export-leading items in the past through international glass exhibitions based on knowhow accumulated for a long time. Therefore, this study aims to examine the current status of glasses design industry in Korea reflecting the actual situations we have now and also understand the problems and limitations internalized in our glass design industry through the research process. As a result, the study has drawn the following conclusions. This paper intends to point out first, the phenomenon of bi-polarization of the glass market in Korea. Second, unequal distribution by region centering around Daegu. Third, the limitations of brand identity. Fourth, the limitations of information, planning, and marketing power. Fifth, passive conduction of international events and their insufficient effects. This study concludes that all these problems can be solved through 'planning and design, and marketing power'.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.96-103
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• 2006

'Kitsch', having emerged after the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century, has been playing a role of interconnecting pop culture with high level culture, now claiming new aesthetic values in a variety of pop cultures of our industrialized modern society and holding its position as a cultural phenomenon. In the realm of fashion which is very much attached to everyday life, kitsch has also been expressing new forms of beauty through the liberation from and destruction of the fixed ideas. This study addresses the issues as to how we obtain the basic understanding of kitsch and shows how it was expressed in the fashion of the actors starring in the recently released Korean comedy movies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.103-113
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• 2003

This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Sonia Delaunay′s works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration. One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Sonia Delaunay′s art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts" are among the earliest example of the aesthetic. In Delaunay′s geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of "simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. Colour as well as Collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity. Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.96-111
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• 2012

This study is to analyze fashion phenomenon according to the concept of the characteristics of freewheeling to explain the de-constructive, eclectic, avant-garde tendencies in Contemporary Fashion. This study is to elicit the aesthetic characteristics through 400 pieces of visual data analysis from 2001S/S to 2011F/W that have the characteristics of freewheeling, nontechnical experiments do away with the classical form. The oriental ideas include the thoughts of different tastes that break the stereotypes according to the Western values and the pursuit of unconventional beauty. These also insist that everything in the world including human-being, nature and creation is not divided into two equal parts, and even beauty and ugliness originated from one. This study is to find the possibility of interpreting oriental aesthetics with open concepts that transcends the boundaries of full availability, unlike the Western values that accommodate the relative concept of the pursuit of diversity. Therefore, integrated and systematic approaches of oriental aesthetics that place much value on the coexistence of antithetic concepts are needed to understand the ambiguity of complexity and diversity in Contemporary fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.203-223
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• 1994

This study intends to look through the development of female costume during the 100 years after the flowering time. By refocusing on the flow the Korean female costume, this study present representative costume style of that time and find out the fashion cycles. For this purpose, the clothes during the 100 years (from 1890 to 1993) were observed and changes of female costume, hair style and shoes were observed. Literature review and content analysis method used. The results of this study are as follows : For Korean costume, there were little changes in basic styles and only the jacket and skirt lengths were changed. After 1960s, as modernization of socio-cultural aspects were processed, Korean costume became formalized and structure of costume was duplicated. In the 1960's mint skirts and pantalons won popularity. In the 1970's , diverse modes including mini, midi, maxi, pantalon, hot pants appeared, and especially the jeans were popular. In the 1980's big & loose silhouette was in fashion in the beginning, and fit & flare silhouette later in the decade. In the 1990's styles emphasizing natural feminity came in fashion. In addition, by analyzing the development of female costume styles of Korea, Fashion cycles were found, expecially in the phenomenon of 70's styles repeating in the 90's.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.