• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.634-638
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• 2006

The significance of this study is the demonstration of a new method of preservation procedure for national-treasure-class cultural-assets by examining the characteristics of the Jeogori relic, presumed to be that of King SeJo, and validating the preservation process. This Jergori as well as the wooden Munsu-donja Buddha statue from which they were found are designated as national treasure. The Jeogori relic is made of light silk and dimensions mark 77 cm in length, 67 cm in width, and 94 cm in sleeve length. It is a typical Jeogori worn in the Chosun Dynasty. Preservation procedure was in the following order: Removing dust and pollutants by vacuum, washing, removing creases, reinforcing the clothes, settling at paulownia backboard, and packing. Storage and exhibition of remains was executed with as minimal folding as possible, and microbiological damage prevention was performed by dyeing antibacterial treatment with eugenol onto supporting cloth. The relic, conservatively treated in accordance with the above procedure, is currently kept at the storage facility of the citadel Museum in the Woljeong Temple. It is displayed annually to the general public for approximately two weeks.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.101-117
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• 2001

Artist's creative works is accomplished in the very complicated network being in fluenced each other, getting celebrate from surround and center, and showing repetition and change. It took an important role of 1920's culture with new social and mental feature generated by revolution. It also has been influenced on an intellectual paradigm and artistic tendency. According to the feather the Art to Wear of Constructivism, at first, design as absolution of folk art in Russia prior to the concept is coming up to systematic design and useful article's performance. Courageous arrangement of color and rhythm is unique. The second is a tendency clothing design of productirism. It is connected with material culture and artists insisted creature of productive material that is a essential in life than Arts in museum. The third, tendency clothing design of minimalism emphasis functional aspect that is produced industrial aesthetics. The examples are simply designed and functional cloths for sorking uniform. This thesis is studied about clothing and textiles of major artists, formative property, and international reflection from October revolution in 1917 that is strengthen a system by introducing a new economic policy to a five year plan.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to correctly understand the costume of Qing dynasty in the court painting. The starting point of this study was that the painting typically reflects the cultural values, social significations, costume and aesthetic outlook of that period when the paintings were done. Based on this regard, this study analyzed the costume of figure paintings in the court painting of the Qing dynasty that complied and edited by the Palace Museum. The court dress of Qing dynasty represented not only the spiritual world of Manchu tribes but also the influences of Chinese traditional culture. The court dresses of Kangxi and Qianloug showed definitely the luxury of life of Qing court. The everyday dress of Qing dynasty reflected the nomadic environments and it was very simple. The hunting dress of Qing dynasty was very developed and also represented horse riding and hunting activities of their traditional life. The ladies of Qing dynasty enjoyed to dress the costume of old Chinese style. The appearance of noble women was fragile and slim.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.159-168
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• 2022

With the recent proliferation of Hallyu content, national interest in Korea and the demand for designs with traditional Korean patterns as a motif is on the rise. In addition, as customers' design requirements tend to value more and more detailed and differentiated handcrafted designs, research on the motifs used in nail experts' original nail design development and nail design is continuously needed. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to expand the scope of nail design motifs with high practical value by producing nail design works applying plant patterns of Wadang, used during the Unified Silla Period, and to diversify nail art expression techniques. The research reviewed domestic and foreign literature related to Wadang during the Unified Silla Period, analyzed the collection at the National Museum of Korea, and categorized the motifs based on the characteristics of plant patterns and Wadang during the Unified Silla Period. The tangible motifs are intended to be presented as a fusion of nail art design works that utilizes both flat and stereoscopic art techniques. Through this study, it was confirmed that the plant pattern of Wadang from the Unified Silla Period is an attractive motif that can be expressed in various nail designs expressing Korean emotions and traditional beauty, and furthermore, it can be used as basic data for the idea of various beauty design areas.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.127-137
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• 2019

Nail art, which has been popularized recently, has increased convenience in the direction of nail art design harmonized with clothing and the increased interest and usage of nail art decoration. This study set out to propose practical planar and three-dimensional nail art designs in harmony with modern clothes by applying trimmings common in 18th century women's clothing, which used a variety of attachable decorations. As for the methodology, the investigator examined theories in previous studies, literature, and analyzed the types of trimming in female portraits from the 18th century at the museum at the Palace of Versailles in France. Planar and three-dimensional nail art designs were created for each of the top three trimming types- braids, laces, and ribbons, which were identified through analysis. The study applied the trimmings of the 18th century women's clothes to nail art design and had the following results: First, the top three trimming types were identified based on the analysis of the 18th century portraits. They were then used as motifs in the production of planar and three-dimensional nail art designs. The results show that the motifs of the clothes trimmings were fit for and had practical possibilities for expression in nail art designs. Secondly, diversity and the expansion of ideas in the study of nail art design were promoted. In addition, elements were increased to have mutually complementary effects with clothes. Finally, the study made various attempts at nail design methods by adopting a range of nail art expression techniques including hand painting, 2D & 3D art techniques, and using planar and three-dimensional nail decorations, thus proposing a positive direction for the organization of a curriculum to make use of 18th century women's clothing motifs in nail art education.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.787-803
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo's collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo's 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• International Journal of Knowledge Content Development & Technology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.37-49
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• 2012

This research aims to perform a contextual study of the wedding customs, wedding procedures, and wedding costumes included in Korean traditional wedding culture, making use of cultural contents which form cultural archetypes. The range of wedding customs studied are set limits from the Joseon dynasty to ancient times, and, for wedding procedures and costumes, to the Chosun dynasty, when a wedding ceremony became the norm. Only wedding ceremonies performed among ordinary classes are included as subjects for this research; wedding ceremonies and costumes for court are excluded. The cultural archetypes developed within these boundaries suggest prior cultural content, developed beforehand. The research methods are focused on document records inquiry and genre paintings during the Joseon era, using museum resources as visual materials. The following is the outcome of this research: Firstly, wedding customs and procedures observed among folk materials are presented in chronological order. Secondly, the brides' and grooms' wedding costumes are also presented chronologically, differentiated by class-characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.