• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.156-170
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• 2012

These days, fashion museums that were established during the 60~70s in advanced countries are spiritedly planning opportune exhibitions as well as opening collections and accumulated research materials to the public. They are also publishing innovative visual references and offering various educational programs. They play a crucial role in speeding up the development of creativity of fashion designers by accumulating archives through analytic researches. Since Korea has applied western fashion for over a century, now is the time to make a fundamental long-term plan for establishing the identity of Korean fashion by gathering and classifying the history of a century. Thus, the aim of this study is to reach a conclusion to construct fashion museum in Korea to discover as well as develop fashion talents and eventually enhancing national competitiveness. First, the theoretical study on the history and the functions of fashion museum were analysed. 'The collection & exhibition' in the common thread is one function of the fashion museum. Another function is 'the research', which includes accumulations, classification and record of materials in a particular point of view. It also includes publishing catalogues with temporary exhibitions and open management to the scholars and the designers. 'The communication', which is enacted through various educational programs and events for inflow of new visitors, is the other function of fashion museum. The current state of fashion museums in advanced countries and Korea were also analysed. Korean public museums only owned traditional collections while public fashion museums in other advanced countries usually owned collection of the past and the present together. The only contemporary fashion museum in Korea is run private which leads to many problems. Finally, The study went further to suggest the advanced model of fashion museum in Korea based on the research.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.723-730
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to speculate on the history and the meaning of so-called "princess fashion" based on the feminist's viewpoint. While many designers in Korean fashion world have fostered the trend of princess fashion, relatively little insight has been developed regarding its socio-cultural meanings. For this problem, the researcher traced the historical background and the development of the princess fashion in both the western and the Korean fashion world. As a case of the princess fashion study, Andre Kim(a renowned Korean designer)'s collection was selected and analyzed since he has often been a central figure for the princess fashion trends in Korea. Here the operational definition of the princess fashion is the lavish dresses designed based on the western court dress styles. As a result, the researcher found that the princess fashion was originated from the eighteenth century in France. In the nineteenth century, male designers took over the role to make extravagant dresses such as empire and crinoline dresses which became the prototypes for the princess fashion. In Korea, the western court dress style was introduced at the end of the nineteenth century and it became a uniform of prostitutes during the Korean War. By analyzing Andre Kim's collection, it is found that his romantic dresses imitated the nineteenth century court dresses. Therefore, from the feminist's viewpoint, his princess fashion is a mere reproduction of anachronistic styles reflecting inferior and passive images of women. The researcher draws a conclusion that today's fashion should transcend the princess fashion that signifies the female's submissive-masochistic roles operated by the male's sexual expectation.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.72-83
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the history of 20th century fashion and make-up culture, analyze trend of the modern fashion and make-up, creat a cyber make-up model according to themes and also it will find out how to use make-up as a part of fashion genre. As a result of this study is 1. Looking over change-process in 20th century fashion and make-up history, we can find the popular make-up color and pattern reflecting the society and cultural environments. And also make-up culture reflecting their sense of values and way of thinkings. 2. Analyzing fashion and make up color trend of 2002 F/W, we can find a similarity between fashion and make-up color trend by comparing with hue&tone chart. All of theme have a tendency to be natural, veiled, feminine by neutral color and artifical highlighted, illuminate, transparant by clear-high saturation color. 3. Creating imagemaps, color palletes and cyber model of 4 trend themes by computer graphic, It can give more visual and interesting effect on the cyber space, and also it can help to expect make-up will be dizitalized, visualized and informationalized.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2014

Contemporary fashion designers are keen on linking the past and the present through culture and fashion by the attempt to investigate and research on the costumes recorded in its history and to reinterpret it on their own terms. Covering the history of culture ranging from the 70s and 80s to the ancient Greek and Egyptian periods, these reinterpretations also reflect the latest fad of the times in which a fashion designer lives and works. Above all, Rococo costume from the eighteenth century is one of the fashion styles adored by fashion designers. What constitute the costume of this period creating the image of sensual women are not only the form of outfit, colors, the design of accessories, shoes and hairstyle but also the details such as frills, ribbons and flower decorations. In contemporary times, the original Rococo style has been modified and turned into various styles in the haute couture and street fashion. These modernized styles include Rock Rococo, Modern Rococo, Lolita Look, Gyaru Fashion and etc., all of which adopt the Rococo style and consider it as the symbol of feminine beauty. However, their approaches to the original Rococo style differ from each other. Hence, advocating the elegance of women is not invariably the case. Often, the interpretations of the Rococo are unconventional, defiant and wild. And, sometimes, these new versions of Rococo are overly exaggerated and emphasized or, reversely, reduced. In this research, various references on the Rococo elements such as colors, forms, accessories and detailed features that has influenced on the contemporary fashion will be analyzed. This analysis will demonstrate how the Rococo style of the eighteenth century has been integrated into contemporary fashion giving birth to new Rococo fashion styles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.143-155
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is elucidate the status and role of fashion house museums including art museums that are affiliated to luxury fashion brands. This study is significant in that it offers profound understanding of the history of luxury brands and the direction of communication these luxury brands are taking through online and offline museums. For research methods in this study, literature review and case studies were combined. Based on the luxury type classification by Sicard, the scope of research was determined to include the French classical luxury brands to modern luxury brands and contemporary luxury brands. Examining the current status of fashion house museums, it was found that Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art is an art museum operated by the luxury fashion brand, Cartier. Other fashion house museums in operation included $Herm{\grave{e}}s$ Museum, Foundation Louis Vuitton Museum, $Crist{\acute{o}}bal$ Balenciaga Museum, Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Gucci Museum, Christian Dior Museum, Prada Foundation Museum, Ferragamo Museum, Armani Silos, and so on. As for online museums, there was Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum. These luxury fashion brands' museums serves the following roles: provides references to the fashion industry professionals and researchers; differentiates the brand as means of experience marketing; promotes the brand and enhances brand communication through exhibitions of the founder and designers; archive the brand's design and builds the brand's history as a means of storytelling marketing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.61-76
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is the development of an experimental design that aims to implement three-dimensional fashion design by observing the human body, extracting and combining geometric shapes and forms, and focusing on attempts to decompose the geometry of the human body in art history. Considering the characteristics of fashion design, which inevitably reflect human images visually, this study considered works by deriving geometric shapes and forms of the human body and focusing on decomposition and combination to apply them to fashion design. The results obtained through the development of fashion design through decomposition and combination based on geometric human body analysis are as follows. First, geometric analysis of the human body as an object of expression continues from the history of Cubism to modern fashion design. Second, the geometric shapes of the human body that appear in contemporary fashion design maximize visual effects through three-dimensional composition, emphasizing simplicity while showing originality through various expressions. Third, when exploring the geometric shapes of a moving human body, it was possible to extract a wide variety of shapes and forms through drawing and simplifying the human body's movements. Fourth, the formative method of fashion design was introduced and used for the aesthetic combination of objects for fashion design through decomposition and combination. This study was able to show unique and diverse combinations of visually concise and ordered geometric shapes in the expression of fashion design by decomposing and combining them. The significance of these geometric forms is that they can diversify formative informativeness in the expression of fashion design with modern compositional beauty.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.113-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this paper is to study the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, with a focus on its aesthetics, its practical use and its traditional meaning. After the examination of its history, the paper, recreated the proceeds by taking into consideration both the contemporary men's fashion, as well as the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ designs of the past. The three factors of contemporary $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ design, in brief, are its historical meaning, the visual aesthetics and the wearability. In this paper, the research and design steps are as followed below. First, the paper examined the history of men's fashion leading up to the twenty-first century in order to get a deeper understanding of the history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$. Second, the paper attempted to find the most suitable fabric materials and flowers for the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, in order to produce diverse $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ that can be worn in any season and occasion. As for the fabrics that can be used to make the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, organza can be used for the S/S season, and wool, tweed and suede can be used for the F/W season. The major characteristics that differentiate the kinds of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ are the "Carnation" and the "Rose of Sharon". The 'Rose of Sharon' $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ as the symbol of our nation possesses an intricate meaning and practical function, so that this $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is used as an alternative badge of the national assembly and other social-national institutions and their members. This idea expands into other social and individual features that the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is a differentiated fashion item that provides other personal styles and expresses individuality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2000

The purpose of study is explaining the Historicism as a result of compromise, historical eclecticism, between historical things and current cultural background instead of regarding it as an imitation from the past. It means that external factors in history help internal esthetic value surface out as costume. Fashion s history is more than the classified thing according to the appearance with the changes of the times. Intrinsic cultural elements should be added in creating new fashion. One of the different features between Modernism and Post-modernism. When coming to the period of Post-modernism, it connected with the historical factors to make something new by fragmenting, magnifying, or minimizing them. This is calles 'Historicism'in the world of art. It revived the past, not the past itself, in new ways : quotation, reuse, metaphor, and mixture. To represent the image, parody, pastiche, or bricolage was usually used. In post-modernism fashion, parody is a technique for imitating the past or the preceding forms with artists'own critical points of view. This technique gives us shock or surprise by using satirical, ironical or paradoxical expressions. pastiche shares the same part with parody in imitating particular or unique style, and it can be renamed empty parody, because it doesn't have any hidden motivation or satirical impulse. bricolage is a mixture of quotations from other works. It contains fragments that deepen the image. Like the techniques uttered above, the revival of history through parody, pastiche or bricolage is historical eclecticism and it is included in Historicism.