• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.383-395
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide a formative charateristics by analyzing aesthetic charateristics of Egypt costume expressed in contemporary fashion. The result of this study obtained through this process were as follows. Aesthetic characteristics were expressed as a primative-retro characteristics, and a erotic-retro characteristics and a decorative-retro characteristics. Based on these trends, this study analyzed formative charateristics in an aspect of form, color, material, and decoration. In the modern fashion, unlike the H-line silhouette given by a natural fit in the primitive retro, the erotic retro was characterized in the shape by a tight H-line silhouette. For the color, peach, yellow green, gold, light blue, red, and black were used as the main color. For the material, see-through, gauze, mesh, organdy, and tight vinyl were utilized to emphasize an erotic image and expose a body secretly. For the decoration, the characteristic of erotic retro using the simple or same colors frequently was the use of similar accessories colors matched with material colors. The decorative retro was characterized in the shape by a H-line silhouette connected as a part of clothing which applied passium and a greatly modified silhouette from an Egyptian simple style which was well-matched with splendid accessories. For the color, the broadest range of color changes was found from light pastel such as white, yellow, light pink, burnt orange, blue, purple, silver, gold, and red to strong vivid tones. For the material, modern materials such as organdy, tulle, leather, and furs were often used. For the decoration, passium, an eagle pattern, scarab earrings, a crown, a sneak-shaped coronet, and pictograph printed on the fabric were frequently used.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2018

The purposes of this study were to investigate actual use, design preference, and purchasing behaviors of bedding among married women in their 30s to 60s, and to determine the differences by age groups on these variables. The subjects were 623 married women and the research method was survey. The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, cross tab analysis, multiple response analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS program. The results were as follows. First, on the actual use of bedding, the possession quantity of the bed cover and mattress was 2~4 while bedclothes and pillow was 7~8. The period of use of bedding was about 2~4 years and the frequency of washing was about 2~3 times a month. Second, married women generally preferred white and pastel tones, floral patterns, cotton fabrics, and a clean and comfortable image on bedding designs. Third, on the purchasing behaviors of bedding, married women considered functional damage and health & sanitary aspects as important purchase purposes. The most important selection criterion was fabric. Price, tactility, functionality, and manageability were also important criteria. Married women generally used the internet and store displays as important information sources, and considered bedding specialty stores as important purchase places. They generally spent about 200,000~300,000 won a year to purchase bedding. Fourth, the actual use, design preference, and purchasing behaviors of bedding showed many differences by age group. Therefore, it is needed to establish product development and marketing strategy of bedding, considering customers'age variable.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.231-250
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• 2014

This study considers types of design expression and examines aesthetic characteristics by analyzing images shown on clothes worn by Korean First Ladies. This study is to accumulate a fundamental database for the effective style coordination for images of First Ladies and future directions of clothing design. The types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, in terms of silhouette, H line and A line is generally represented on the silhouette of clothes; in addition, the H line is highly expressed on the silhouette. The keyword of images by design types are generally feminine, elegant on the silhouette of First Ladies' clothing, and represented a progressively more modernized image on the silhouette. Second, in terms of color, it is expressed diverse images on the color of First Ladies' clothing, and exceptionally the tendency of elegant image is highly charged on the color of clothes. This sort of tendency is influenced by the preferences of First Ladies; subsequently, most First Ladies wear their clothes with a high brightness and chroma. Third, in terms of materials, the image of elegant and simple is highly expressed through First Ladies' clothes and it is caused by choosing the clothes of a plain texture rather than a visible and fancy one. The aesthetic characteristics based on an analysis of the types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, 'femininity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed by A line silhouette of a feminine curve and decorative effects. Second, 'simplicity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed on the H line silhouette of a straight figure or through the solid colors of high chroma. Third, 'elegance' on First Ladies' clothes is represented on the silhouette of a restrained curve, long skirt hemlines, and woolen fabric with a neat, warm and soft coordination of colors. Forth, 'traditionality' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed through the application of materials and colors that influence culture, traditions, and detailed decorativeness.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.36-52
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• 2008

Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.183-203
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• 1998

The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.145-152
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out the traditional decoration techniques in the Korean costume. Both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and investigated the traditional decoration techniques used in the related literatures and museum catalogues. The results were as follows. The broad and back stitching are fundamental stitching, which used to Nubi and Keki. Top stitching applied broadly to the Korean costume, for example, Jergori, Wonsam, Jeonbok, Beosun, Bojagj and so on. The expression techniques for top stitching were one, two or three stitches. When the top stitching was used as colorful stitches, they were more decorative. The Zatmulim was used for the decorative effect on the seam line because it was triangular shaped and became more effective by changing the rotor and size. Sunmulim was used on the narrow line such as the seam lines of Gergori and Chima. The bakchi decoration was imitating a bat shape, had a meaning of bringing the goodness and gave the tiny and elaborated image. It was used to the neckline of Geogori, seam line of Chima, Pungcha Bazi and so on. Sattgi was used to attaching the bottom of two stiff fabrics adopting for Beosun, Ayam and Norigae. When it used colorful strings, the more decorative effect was added. The knot for button used the fabric instead of buttons and applied to the Cheonlik, Gergori. The aesthetic values of the traditional decoration techniques in the costume were both natural beauty and practicality with creativity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.197-207
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• 1992

Expressionism, is as diverse as the artists invo)ved, in a very broad sense two main tendencies may be noted. The first is that of the Action painters, concerned in different ways with the gesture of the brush and the texture of the paint. It included such major artists as Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, Willem De Keening, and Franz Kline. The other group consisted of the Color Field painters, concerned with the statement of an abstract sign or tranquil image in terms of a large, unified color shape or area. Here must be included Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, Ad Rdinhardt, as well as, to a degree, Adolph Gottlieb, Robert Motherwell, and Clyf(ord Still. In this paper, 1 selected two artists Arshile Gorky and Jackson Pollock independent charac-teristics and studied the influence of their Action painting on the fabrics of modern fashion. However, it should be noted it was never the intention of the critic Harold Rosenberg, in coining this term, to imply that Action painting was a kind of athletic exercise. Nor is it true that the furious and seemingly haphazard scattering of the paint involved a completely uncontrolled, intuitive act. There is no question that, in the paintings of Jackson Pollock, Arshile Gorky and many of the other Abstract Expressionists, the element of intuition or the accidental plays a large and deliberate part; this was indeed one of the principal contributions of Abstract Expressionism which had found its own inspiration in surrealism's 'psychic automaton'. However, nothing that an experienced and accomplished artist does can be completely accidental. Aside from their intrinsic quality, the spun-out skeins of poured pigments contributed other elements that changed the course of modern painting. There was the concept of the all-over painting, the painting seemingly without beginning or end, extending to the very limits of the canvas and implying an extension even beyond. The feeling of absorption or participation is heightened by the ambiguity of the picture space. The colors and lines, although never punctur-ing deep perspective holes in the surface, still create an illusion of continuous movement, a billowing, a surging back and forth, within a limited depth. To study the influence of Abstract Expressionism on the fabric of modern fashion, 1 selected and examined four fashion magazines: Collezioni published in France, Bazaar in Italy, Gap in Japan and Vogue in the U.S.a. froim January 1989 to June 1991. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern clothing are printed in a dripping, pouring and splashing style without any meaning or form. Slides included in the presentation show that modern fabrics which are printed in such a style were influenced by Abstract Expressionism. The slides also show that these abstract prints are well suited to modern fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.49-55
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to analyze the factorial structure of the criteria on clothing selection. Data were obtained from 219 housewives in Seoul. 95 likert type questions were selected from the existing questionnaires and from the open end questions. The items were analyzed for discriminating power, followed by the factor analysis. 57 items were subjected to the principal component analysis with orthogonal rotation after extraction of 5 major factors. 47 items were found to be significantly loaded to at least one of the five factors. The factors had the following characteristics: Factor I. The persons scoring high on this factor would invest time and energy in their clothes to achieve their image and individuality. They were interested in clothes, appearance and fashion. Factor II. The persons scoring high on this factor were more concerned about the practicality of clothing, such as ease-of-care, comfort, texture and quality of fabric. They would not select the clothes which soiled easily and would not perform as expected. Factor III. High scores on this factor were associated with the eagerness to get the cloth-ing value for the money. They would make a long plan to buy an expensive clothing and choose a unique clothing regardless of fashion. Factor IV. A high score on this factor was suggestive of modesty. They were willing to buy inconspicuous clothes, such as dark or muted colors, small prints and conservative styles. Factor V. High scores on this factor were characterized by the desire for conformity and approval of their friends. This result may be used to develop an instrument to measure the criteria on clothing selection of consumer.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.306-315
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• 2006

Today, the uniform is perceived being important, because it transmits the unique company image through visualization of images, improves efficiency of work, and increases the feeling of belonging. Therefore, the purpose of this project was to make the winter uniform for the personnel in the manufacturing and the business departments of Korea Tobacco and Ginseng Corporation. The functional, aesthetic, and symbolic aspects were fully considered throughout the design process for the new uniform. To reflect the worker's opinions, the questionnaire method was used. The questionnaire was made up of the questions about the evaluation criteria and design preference for uniform. The result of the survey was reflected on the uniform design. The uniform consists of a jumper and a pair of pants. The jumper for manufacturing workers has two patched pockets with gussets. It has a convertible collar and a horizontal tuck on front panel. It has an open fastener on the front and a flap to cover the fastener. It has two types of pockets inside for functional reason. The welt one is for a wallet and the small one is for a pen. For the material, melanges with two tones of gray color was used, so it gave the sophisticated look on the uniform. The jumper for business workers also has a convertible collar and inside pockets. It has two slant slash pockets with welt. In addition, it has an attachable fur collar which gives thermal protection and aesthetic effect. The fabric has small check pattern and was made of wool. The pants are a basic trouser style with two pleats on the front.