• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권5호
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• pp.984-1003
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• 2020

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craft-arts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2023

The smart fashion industry is showing steady growth worldwide, which will create new value throughout the fashion industry and become an essential element for efficient lifestyles. This study attempted to examine the development trend of smart fashion products from a design perspective and present the direction of design as a fashion item incorporating smart technology from a functional perspective. For this purpose, the category of portable smart fashion and the characteristics of the research object were considered through current status survey and previous research review. Among smart fashion, accessories and clothing/fabric products that have been released thus far that apply portable fashion design principles are selected and its characteristics are analyzed. In addition, function keywords were extracted based on the product description provided by the manufacturer and the function-oriented types were classified to identify each type's design characteristics. Therefore, the area receiving the signal and the sensor size should be considered, as should the fashion accessory type that combines various materials and colors. The clothing/textile type requires a design that mainly focuses on functions related to bio-signal interactions.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.112-126
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.24-37
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• 2019

This study focused on the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen' to determine how butterflies are used in modern fashion through the sensibilities of certain designers. To this end, both a literature review and empirical research were conducted. First, we examined the origin of the word and appearance characteristics of butterflies based on prior research and a book, and also surveyed the tendencies used by the fashion designer brand Alexander McQueen. Second, out of 239 items announced by the fashion designer brand "Alexander McQueen" RTW (Ready to Wear) ranging from the S/S Collection in 2008 to the 2018-9 F/W collection, 73 pieces deemed to be fashion using butterfly images were collected through www.samsung.net and www.firstview.com, then analyzed based on timing and aesthetic characteristics. Results. The analysis by time period was divided into fantasy, handicraft, mix and match, and aesthetic characteristics shown in the order of compromise beauty, rhythmical beauty, and voluptuous beauty. The purpose of this study was to determine how butterflies are expressed in fashion based on the sensibility of a specific designer in modern fashion, the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen'. Based on the results of this study, we hope that the information presented herein on fashion of natural images will serve as a basic material for similar research or design ideas as an example of designs based on butterfly images.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.555-563
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• 2010

This research has attempted for a categorization by contemplating on concepts and characteristics of eco fashion design through analysis of precedent studies and to study the design characteristics, images, and internal values through keyword and design codes which appeared in the precedent studies. The subject of analysis was mostly focused on the theses published in international and domestic academic journals from 1990s to September 2009. The design characteristics of each eco fashion design were analyzed by classifying by form, detail, color, fabric and pattern. Method of analysis did content analysis. The results of the research can be summarized as follows. First of all, types of eco fashion design were human-ecology design, natural-ecology design, and social-ecology design. Secondly, the human-ecology design was presented a natural and comfortable form, color of the nature, and functional and new materials. The natural-ecology design was presented a natural silhouette, natural colors, and natural fiber. The social-ecology design were used a loose silhouette and over-size forms, natural colors, and recycled materials and bio fabric. Thirdly, the images per type of eco fashion design were Zen, sportive, natural, and modern image. And the internal values were presented efficiency, health-orientation, naturalness, and continuity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.145-157
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.306-325
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• 2017

This study analyzed how a time-honored fashion house has harmonized its design identity over a sustained period with its successor designers. Givenchy Fashion House was selected as the subject of this study. This study focused on literary research, analyzed design features and fashion images based on photos of Huber de Givenchy's collections (1952-1995) and collections by Riccardo Tisci (2006-2016), the creative director of the house. Photos were gathered from books and fashion websites; in addition design was analyzed based on a review by experts on collections. The results are as follows. Hubert de Givenchy won fame for simplified modern elegance that presented a new beauty for modern women and reached the peak of his career from the 1950s to the 1960s. Riccardo Tisci respected the couture tradition of the Givenchy Fashion House. He successfully revitalized the house by simultaneously emphasizing his personal design features and reinterpreting the design identity as well as tried to establish new house signatures. In conclusion, the original design identity of the Givenchy Fashion House is based on Hubert de Givenchy's timeless modern elegance that has been reformed by Riccardo Tisci as romantic goth and sensual elegance.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.119-127
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• 2011

This purpose of this study was to analyze the formation and look into design characteristics by types and method of expression on multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design. Total 191 pieces of multifunctional fashion design photographs were collected through fashion collection from 2000 S/S to S/S 2010 F/W on the website. First, the characteristics of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design used squared silhouette, achromatic colors, plain patterns for pollution control, hard materials to prolong the product, it was clear that details were minimized to save resources. Second, there were 5 changeable types of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design which were changes in changing forms, material changes, item changes, detail changes and complex changes. Third, as the result of changeable types by method of expression, the changing forms were expressed by removable, material changes by reversible, detail changes by open and close and item changes by shifting. Forth, the formative properties of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design had flexibility, multifunction, versatility and amusing. Therefore, this study will be helpful in planning multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design according to the kind of formative characteristics, changeable types, method of expression and provide concrete fundamental materials for the expert in clothing on the base of objective data through statistical analysis.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.108-120
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• 2023

Recently, interest in eco-friendliness and sustainability has been increasing due to the rapid progress of fast fashion and the crisis of sudden environmental changes after COVID-19. This study aims to develop upcycling textiles and express product design using digital 3D to realize a sustainable fashion industry and present environmental aspects, diversity, creativity, and new directions in fashion industry design. The research method is to develop and pattern upcycling textile designs by applying weaving techniques with waste materials. It uses the developed upcycling textile design in digital 3D to incorporate it into clothing fashion and shows the utility and practicality of upcycling textile design. As a result of the study, the appearance is realistic when outputting DTP of upcycling textile design. It endures without loosening or tearing, making it a durable and creatively expressive fashion item. Texpro 3D mapping reduces the time and cost of making actual sample fabric. Upcycling textile design and 3D CLO virtual clothing are combined to produce actual clothing samples, resulting in zero waste reduction due to cutting and sewing. This study anticipates actively and continuously advancing the development of upcycling textile design and digital 3D in terms of ethics and the environment.