• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1924-1934
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• 2009

Mixture phenomena are present in the overall culture due to internationalization in a modern society. A unique feel is required in materials due to the increasing demand for knit wear and there is a need for a strategic plan to achieve this. This study analyzed the appearance frequency and expressive characteristics of mixture phenomena based on selected data from collections related to the mixture phenomena trends in modern women's fashion from 2000 to 2008. Among the mixture phenomena, the mixture of the high and low class cultures had the highest frequency of occurrence and was expressed most often since the expansion of design areas was due to vague high and low concepts. The mixture of sexes showed the sharing of knit wear trends between the sexes with the pursuit of functionality. The mixture of styles showed a tendency to increase since the traditional form was transformed into a mixture of typical styles. The mixture of spaces showed a mixture of old and traditional knit wear patterns from Northern Europe and modern elements. The mixture of other materials showed the partial preceding mixture and the decorative materials that existed beyond it. The mixture of functions refers to the used characteristics of the two items. Imagination will grow and increase the possibility of expressions with the mixture of the other areas.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.814-827
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• 2012

This study analyzed the presentation trend of a checklist method for trench coat designs. Through this analysis, this study examined the flow of trench coat designs and presents future design directions. Research was conducted in the following method. A total of 1,307 female trench coat photos were selected from the photos presented in the top 4 collections from 2006 to 2011. These photos were used for analysis and frequency analysis was conducted. Among the checklist methods presented in trench coats, the modification type was most common, followed by the elimination type, conversion type, combination type, minimization type, addition type, and magnification type, respectively. Checklist methods were continuously presented even while increasing and decreasing according to the year and season. This showed that it was highly possible for checklist methods to be continuously applied in future trench coat designs. Generally, a high frequency of appearance was shown in 2010 and during the F/W season. According to the development direction of future trench coat designs applied with the checklist method, it is predicted that the modification type and the elimination type (which have generally displayed high appearance frequency) will be continuously magnified in the future. In particular, it is expected modifications in structural details (which have showed an upward trend in 2011) will be further magnified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.5
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• pp.34-47
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• 2011

Grotesque make-up causes a visual shock among modern people beyond the standardized beauty definition, attracts their attention, and manifests itself as a phenomenon of "something bizarre, extremely unnatural, ugly, and funny." The purposes of this study were to investigate the characteristics of grotesque in today's make-up as well as its concepts and features and to figure out its aesthetic characteristics based on the results. The research scope was limited to the fashion make-up of the collections from 2005 to 2010 and the advertising make-up during the same period. In the make-up phenomenon examined according to the grotesque characteristics, the pale skin expression, frightened eyes, and emphasis on black induce disgusting fear, sadness, death, sin, fear for life and death, and obsession. As the make-up emphasized only one part by neglecting the original form and exaggerated it to the point of distortion, the exaggerated abnormality led to a sense of social crisis, desperation, and absence of form. As for devilish playfulness, the make-up accompanied by grotesqueness and humor brought the suppressed, closed world in a tight framework out to fluidity and openness, conveying satire, ludicrousness, ridicule, and accusation of the modern society. The heterogeneous disharmony was found in the use of objects in heterogeneous combinations, presenting unreality, fiction, displeasure, ambivalence, and loss of value of human existence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.880-891
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• 2006

This study is to be focused on the sportswear combining common wear with the design elements of activewear. The objectives of this study are four designers in compliance with the book of Ann Marie Fiore and Patricia Anne Kimle; Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui and the times to be studied are limited to the early 21st Century from 2001 to 2005. Main results are as follow. This research divides sportswear into four groups; 'Function oriented style', 'Sensible style', 'Retro American sports style', and 'Street sports style'. Comparison of four designers' sportswear shows that Calvin Klein is function oriented, Donna Karan is function oriented and sensitivity driven, whereas Ralph Lauren focuses on retro American sports style along with function oriented characteristics. Anna Sui places emphasis on youth oriented street sports style. In terms of color, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use White & Black and natural tone while Ralph Lauren uses pastel tone, and Anna Sui uses mostly vivid colors. In terms of material, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use mostly elastic and synthetic materials whereas Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui use natural materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.340-358
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to fundamentally examine the vests of the robes "Daeraebok" and "Soraebok" of the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korea to Japan. Among the collections of different robes of the Korean Empire which belong to various universities and institutions, only the vests were surveyed. The shape of the vests in the Korean Empire were single-breasted and double-breasted. Most V-necklines and vests with a shawl collar look like a tailored collar, where the collar outline was shaped like a notched and picked collar, which is a mix of the step collar and roll collar of the 19th century. The rear center line was not flat, but inclined to a triangle. All vests of the robe Daeraebok were equipped with gold buttons, and those of the robe Soraebok had black satin buttons. The tailoring characteristic is that the front has a different material (dark black wool) from the back (black silk). This characteristic is expected to be an important basic piece of information in the restoration and reproduction of the vest, which was worn during the imperial period, especially to reveal its shape, characteristics and composition. This characteristic can also be used as data of cultural contents based on Korean modern history.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.128-141
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to consider characteristics of 'movement expression' that are not discovered in preceeding design studies in order to suggest 'movement expression' as a design formative principal and to make clothes which follows this idea. For the method of this study I used various literature about 'movement expression' as theoretical background and analyzed modern clothing in which 'movement expression' is expressed by collecting magazines including foreign collections from 1989 to 2004 and searching the internet. The results obtained from this study is as follows. First, clothing in which 'movement expression' is expressed removes monotony and tedium of clothing design, provides visual interest and satisfaction for clothing, and delivers designers' concept effectively by attracting a gaze quickly. And It is suggested a new division of 'movement expression' through analysis of the 'movement expression' expressed in clothing. It included the intentional movement by wearers, which is the 'movement expression' of broader meaning such as changes of form or position by a certain operation and changes of existence or function. This movement is not fixed and repeated but changes continuously. As a result of including the design expressing the intentional movement by wearers, one's own personality can be expressed more effectively. It is presented a design which has changeable movement expression continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.101-109
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• 2011

The present research aims to suggest the design of a new direction that copes with the changing environment. For example, the design for outdoor wear can be made through various methods that allows it to be worn for anytime and anywhere. Also, the research aimed to seek a development direction of outdoor wear design with environment-friendly expanded function that handles unpredictable environmental changes. The analysis of this research is as follows. First, it can be said that the trend of the outdoor wear design according to climate and environment changes is a design that seeks an efficient and rational role in functional aspects such as complex multi-functionality and minimum decorations as well as enhancing economic efficiency. Second, the outdoor wear design provides the optimal climate for the human body even in a continuously changing artificial environment. Its easy and comfortable function also helps to keep defense from possible risk elements. Lastly, this research seeks interactions among design, the body and environment. It also tries shape change using buttons and zippers, etc. according to expansion of a structural form of clothes as multi-functionality and versatility tools, and seeks a design form that can be reconstructed. The research that geared toward environmental changes should be further progressed in order to produce apparel that have efficient adaptability of any climate situations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes' body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.