• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.981-991
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to observe the cultural phenomenon in modern society from the point of view of pastiche, analyze the characteristics of pastiche, create a framework for studying modem fashion and body ornamentation, one of the facts of cultural phenomenon and, based on these aspects, will observe the pastiche phase, which occurred in body ornamentation of modem fashion in the late 1990's Collections. The characteristics of pastiche is that it transcends meaning, alters the usage of objects, raises the beauty of alienation and pursues temporariness. Observing pastiche, according to its definition and characteristics, as it appears in body ornamentation of modem fashion, the results were as follows: First of all, in terms of transcending meaning, body ornamentation of modern fashion is a mixture of all past styles. Secondly, use of objects in body ornamentation of fashion has shown the use of things which have never been used in accessorizing before, such as birdcages, bones of body, castle. Third, in terms of the raising of the beauty of alienation, accessories from countries, which were not high interest groups in the past, such as piercing, scar, corpulent, are being used as high-fashion accessories in body ornamentation of modern fashion. Fourth, in terms of the pursuit of temporariness, external ornamentation in body ornamentation of modern fashion is seen as permanent changes to the outer body, such as tattoos, piercings, hair color and the more temporary changes, such as coloring.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.90-104
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• 2017

In a rapidly changing fashion design world, creative ideas are always required. Knowledge has been created as an art, exhibiting a new imagination that surpasses reality, while being visualized from the past. The purpose of this study is to derive types of visualization of knowledge for continuous creation of fashion design. The study consists of literature and empirical studies. ATTA, a creativity evaluation method made by Torrance applied for analyzing of Gucci fashion design collections from 2016-2017. Creativity of the Gucci collection by ATTA evaluation items are that first, a vivid idea was revealed through collection history, myths and animal and plants, second, conceptual incongruity is in the composition of the garment, third, provocative questions are the symbolism of the meaning of the text, fourth, different perspectives derive a new formative beauty through the synthesis of twisted elements, fifth, abstraction is a symbolic expression of animals and plants, sixth, synthesis is a mixture of various materials and techniques by plural inspiration, seventh, context, it is developed as a design accompanied by stories of history and myth and eighth, fantasy is fictitious animals and animals and detail. In addition, formativeness of fashion design by visualization of this knowledge was extracted with contamination, symbolism, enjoyment and fabrication. Visualization of the knowledge is expected to be used as a strategy to attract ongoing ideas for creative fashion designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.119-135
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of the intraculturalism expressed in contemporary fashion and to confirm the functions of intraculturalism to establish, visualize, perform the racially indeterminate, ethnically neutral, culturally diverse or ambiguous identity. For this study, the applications of the intraculturalism shown in mass media and consumer culture, such as music, fashion advertisements and collections of high fashion designers from 2004 to 2008 have been analyzed and compared. The results were as follows: The Intraculturalism is reflected in the muticultural music such as Afropean, Jawaiian, Reggaeton and Asian Hip Hop. Intracultural music genres create the hybrid music and fashion culture through mixing, matching and blending one and another culture. Advertisement campaigns for Louis Vuitton, YSL Beauty, Gap and H&M stores have all purposely highlighted models with mixed racial heritage. It is reflected in the latest youth fashion market trend using face that are ethnically ambiguous. The increasingly multiracial, multicultural population is due to intermarriage and waves of immigration. The rising mixed race designers, Narciso Rodriguez, Hussein Chalayan, Vera Wang and DooRi Chung, not only compromise and amalgamate different cultural elements of their heritage and contemporary life but also create new look and fashion image. The characteristics of intraculturalism expressed in the 21st century fashion could categorized into de-genre, de-nationality, de-race and de-culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2013

This study deals with the aesthetic characteristics in Gareth Pugh's fashion film. As fashion films are becoming a newly emerging communication tool in fashion, the aim of this study will be to build a database on these films. For the specific method in this work, literature reviews were performed along with the empirical study of seven pieces of fashion film. The results of the study showed that Gareth Pugh released the fashion films from 2008 to 2012, and he collaborated with SHOW Studio member and photographer Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben. Common themes in their films were fear, fantasy, dynamics, and going off-limits, and these can be summed up in the following ways. First, a sense of fear was expressed via black colors, bizarre mechanical sounds, decalcomania shape in abstract images, and transformed physical body images. Second, an image of fantasy was presented with diverse expression techniques including colorful light presentations and abstract image setups from repeatedly changed image reproduction. Third, dynamic feature was denoted with a combination of fast development of images and quick reproduced layouts, as well as quick beat sounds, and big and powerful action movements. Fourth, characteristic of going off-limits was reflected, by showing the collections with a communication tool called fashion film instead of existing collection concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.125-143
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• 2013

This study aims to clarify the identity of contemporary Chinese fashion design by examining how the characteristics of Chinese tradition are accepted and presented in fashion under the influences of western cultures. This study performed a literature survey on related works. Also this study performed demonstrative analysis of Chinese daily newspapers (People's Daily and Xinmin Evening News, 2007-2010) and fashion collections by Chinese and Chinese descent designers(2007-2011). The results are as follows: First, China is trying to express Chinese traditional ideas and factors in the design areas, and also trying to achieve an universal generalization. Second, the Chinese designers emphasized traditional ideas and culture in their designs. The Chinese descent designers were affected more by western culture. The common aesthetic consciousness were the beauties of sophisticated and splendorous decoration, vastness and elegance. Also the compromised images, neutral images and antique images were common in both groups. Third, the Chinese designers presented fashion designs on formalized and imitation stage. Also they tried to make a metaphorical stage. The Chinese descent designers showed designs on a metaphorical stage. In conclusion, the contemporary Chinese fashion design should find the way to globalize and identity of the traditional culture code simultaneously.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.156-160
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• 2006

Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.59-77
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to use data from studies of headdresses which might be helpful for creating new fashion styles. Headdresses in 2010 S/S-2015 S/S Paris haute couture collections were analyzed in the following categories: years, season, brand, type, color, material, and image. The types of headdresses were categorized as hat, hood, decorative or complex types. The hat type was elegant with a modern style, and coexisted with an exaggerated avant garde style. The hood type wrapped around the head with many examples having a distinctive sculpture on top of the knot. The decorative type varied dramatically in form and materials. The complex type was a blend of all the other types with the designer's individuality being outstanding. The characteristics of headdresses were revealed first, as an enlargement of the materials category, second, as an expression of dramatic forms, and third, as complete coordination of the creative fashion image. The headdresses illustrate the designer's creativity in producing a variety of images. Henceforth they will be important as fashion items and independent designs in fashion styling.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.64-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to set a characteristic design by analyzing formative properties for the hat and fashion image shown in fashion collections from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 in recent seven years. For the study, the 96 stimuli which found frequently in fashion collection were selected. The examines for the image evaluation were women college students majoring fashion design related fields and living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do, and Gyeongsangnam-do. Data collection was performed in August 2004. As statistical methods for data analysis, internal consistency method, Factor Analysis, MANOVA were used. Based on the analysis of 31 pairs of adjectives for elucidating the total 96 stimuli which were devised by altering the types of garment, the relation between a garment and a color of hat, the types of hat, the length of hair, and the material and design of garment, five factors or attractiveness, gracefulness, concentration, cuteness, and hardness and softness were deduced. And it showed much difference in the types of garment, the relations between a garment and a color of hat, the types of hat, the length of hair, and the material and design of a garment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.129-143
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• 2012

This study focuses on the application of collage techniques to contemporary fashion and intends to show that collage techniques have a significant influence on contemporary fashion, leading to a more creative design aesthetic through the combination of fashion and art. The author carried out an empirical analysis focusing on domestic and global fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2010F/W, fashion publications, and internet data, along with a literature review. As a result, the papier-colle approach, as represented by cubism, showed a creative surface effect through the texture of the paper itself by applying real paper and other materials directly to the clothing items. Second, Dadaist ready-made expressed a distortion of the material and freedom of expression by creating a collage with ready-made fashion items and daily necessities. Third, a photomontage expressed unique images by printing various images of photos that contrasted in perspective. In addition to this, beauty in dissonance and a new sense of space by a collage of disparate material. Fourth, decalcomanie was expressed by printing methods, giving a stable image of the symmetry of the perfect landscape as well as the unintended effect of coincidence in abstract images and particular textures. Fifth, assemblage as the representative collage technique of pop art introduced the overall object itself or modified form by combining it with fashion to express three-dimensional aggregate structures.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.74-87
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• 2012

Many fashion designers were inspired by arts. Not only arts itself but also the sprit of the artist links with fashion. This study based on French artist Yves Klein who died in 1962, at the age of 34. Klein created over a thounsand works in only seven years. Among the his various art collections, it is focused on Yves Peintures, I.K.B(International Klein Blue) and Sponge sculpture. The extracted some of core concepts including aesthetic of Klein about color and line, space perception in monochrome and expansion of monochrome toward three dimensional sponge sculptures were transformed into fashion design. As a result, Yves Sweats project, which is T-shirts project based on Yves Peintures, designed as a three-dimentional expansion of Monochrome and it was shown at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Tranoi homme trade show in Paris. Also Yves Klein collection was designed as a ready-to-wear menswear collection that was presented at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Seoul Fashion Week.