• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.272-278
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to research about Dobby weave design using Computer-Aided Weaving System. For performing this design study, first, it was researched the characteristics of the classified woven fabrics, weaving processing, structure of Dobby loom, and Computer-Aided Dobby Weaving system theoretically. To develop Dobby woven design, Patternland Weave Simulator(U.S.A) for computer weave system was used. Among the developed Dobby woven designs by computer weaving system, mainly three of them were selected and woven into Dobby loom. To see the visual image of the fabric end-use, some of the scanned Dobby fabrics were simulated to the three-dimensional virtual images by Alias CAD system. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. Before the step of weaving Dobby fabrics on the woven design works, Computer-Aided Weaving system can be done very easily to apply the design step of Dobby woven fabrics, specially in case of the complicated woven structure. Also the usage of the simulation CAD system in visual image of the final products, ultimately can be saved cost and developed the higher value-added goods in more response to consumer demands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.347-354
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• 2014

The color appearance of a yarn-dyed woven fabric depends on the color of the yarn as well as on the weave structure. Predicting the final color appearance or formulating the recipe is a difficult task, considering the interference of colored yarns and structure variations. In a modern fabric design process, the intended color appearance is attained through a digital color methodology based on numerous color data and color mixing recipes (i.e., color prediction models, accumulated in CAD systems). For successful color reproduction, accurate color prediction models should be devised and equipped for the systems. In this study, the final colors of yarn-dyed woven fabrics were predicted using six geometric-color mixing models (i.e., simple K/S model, log K/S model, D-G model, S-N model, modified S-N model, and W-O model). The color differences between the measured and the predicted colors were calculated to evaluate the accuracy of various color models used for different weave structures. The log K/S model, D-G model, and W-O model were found to be more accurate in color prediction of the woven fabrics used. Among these three models, the W-O model was found to be the best one as it gave the least color difference between the measured and the predicted colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Aeronautical & Space Sciences
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.256-265
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• 2019

In this paper, the progressive damage of an orthogonal grid shell fabricated with plain weave fabric CFRP under bending load was investigated. The orthogonal grids were cured with the bottom composite shell. Progressive damage analysis of an orthogonal grid shell under bending was performed using nonlinear finite element method with Hashin-Rotem failure criterion and Matzenmiller-Lubliner-Taylor(MLT) model. In addition, the three - point bending test for the structure was carried out and the test results were compared with the analysis results. The comparison results of the strain and displacement agreed well. The damage area estimated by the progressive damage analysis were compared with the visual inspection and ultrasonic non-destructive inspection.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.35-46
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• 1989

Experiments described in which cotton fabrics at different stages of chemical processing were abraded to different extents on a Stoll Abrasion Tester with three different abradants, namely, a worsted fabric, flax fabric and silicon carbide paper. The four different plain-weave cotton fabrics selected were 1) desized, 2) scoured and bleached, 3) mercerized, 4) resin-treated. The surface abrasive damages of treated fabrics were observed by SAM, and load-elongation percent retentions of abraded samples were measured by Instrong Tester. The result were as follows: 1. The maximum percent retention of load-elongation with three different abradants was exhibited by the scoured and bleached fabrics and the minimum by the resin finished fabric. 2. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by flax, worsted fabric abradants for 900 rubs showed a large number of criss-crossing stray fibers in fabric structure. It may be the molecular adhesion for frictional resistance to be explained. 3. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by silicone carbide abradants showed the form of busing or mashing fibers in fabric structure. The above might be on the basis of the ploughing theory.

• Journal of the Korean Ceramic Society
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• v.45 no.9
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• pp.561-566
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• 2008

Carbon fiber fabric-silicon carbide composites were fabricated by liquid silicon infiltration (LSI) process. The porous two-dimensional carbon fiber fabric performs were prepared by 13 plies of 2D-plain-weave fabric in a three laminating method, [0/90], [${\pm}45$], [$0/90/{\pm}45$] lay-up, respectively. Before laminating, a thin pyrolytic carbon (PyC) layer deposited on the surface of 2D-plain weave fabric sheets as interfacial layer with $C_3H_8$ and $N_2$ gas at $900^{\circ}C$. A densification of the preforms for $C_f-Si-SiC$ matrix composite was achieved according to the LSI process at $1650^{\circ}C$ for 30 min. in vacuum atmosphere. The bending strength of the each composite were measured and the microstructural consideration was performed by a FE-SEM.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• Composites Research
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-35
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• 2003

In this paper. various tow parameters such as equivalent tow thickness, amplitude of longitudinal tow and tow intervals were investigated and compared with each other by using microscopic observation to find out the exact deformation patterns between both directions of the fabric structure(Longitudinal and Transverse Directions). And those observation results were compared with bias extension. biaxial tests results with dry fabric which has the same tow structure as the draped helmet materials and also compared with prepreg specimen which is cured by autoclave moulding without vacuum and pressure condition. Specimens for the observation were taken from draped helmet which is made of fabric composite(Five Harness Satin Weave). From the observation results, it was found that there are different deformation pattern between tow directions and effect of geometric condition on the deformation of the fabric materials during draping process was verified.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.67-84
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• 2019

Since the early 2000s, various fashion design products that use 3D printing technology have constantly been introduced to the fashion industry. However, given the nature of 3D printing technology, the flexible characteristics of material of textile fabrics is yet to be achieved. The aim of this study is to develop the optimal design conditions for production of flexible and elastic 3D printing fabric structure based on plain weave, which is the basic structure in fabric weaving using SLS 3D printing technology. As a the result this study aims to utilize appropriate design conditions as basic data for future study of flexible fashion product design such as textile material. Weaving structural design using 3D printing is based on the basic plain weave, and the warp & weft thickness of 4mm, 3mm, 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm, and 0.7mm as expressed in Rhino 6.0 CAD software program for making a 3D model of size $1800mm{\times}180mm$ each. The completed 3D digital design work was then applied to the EOS SLS Machine through Maker ware, a program for 3D printer output, using polyamide 12 material which has a rigid durability strength, and the final results obtained through bending flexibility tests. In conclusion, when designing the fabric structure design in 3D printing using SLS method through application of polyamide 12 material, the thickness of 1 mm presented the optimal condition in order to design a durable digital textile structure with flexibility and elasticity of the 3D printing result.