• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.41-54
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to research on status of physical discomfort and clothing life including clothing inconvenience for enhancing self-reliance of elderly women, newly emerging consumer. The subject of research were 346 elderly women who aged 60 or older in Seoul and Seoul Suburbs. Survey consisted of questions about body discomfort, satisfaction and purchasing criteria of ready-to-wear, the inconvenience of clothing. The results of this study are as follows: Physical discomforts were generally associated with the ability to regulate body temperature. The biggest complaint of ready-to-wear was the price, and the next were the size and activity. In purchasing criteria, 'clothes to fit my body shape', 'clothes easy to put on and take off', 'comfortable clothes to work' showed high score. In clothing inconvenience, 'feel inconvenience due to several layers of clothing to avoid chilliness', 'feel heaviness in the waist due to tightness', 'feel chilliness even when wearing several layers of clothing in the winter' were the most uncomfortable parts. Subjects over the age of 80 years and needed the help of others in activities experienced more inconvenience in clothing life. It seems that body discomfort such as dulness of movement and loss of body temperature regulation capability due to aging had a influence on their clothing life. This problem could be improved by the adjustment of pattern allowance, the selection of the fastener, and the proper use of functional fabric. The results of this study will be used as a basis for development of the elderly women's clothing to increase convenience and mobility in everyday life.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.14-34
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• 2015

The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.34-42
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.

• 대한화학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.12-16
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• 1967

?織物上의 Chlorantine Fast Red 5B(C.I. Direct Red 81)의 照光으로 因한 褪色을 檢討하여 同染料의 CF曲線의 기울기는 異例的으로 負의 기울기를 나타내는 反面 CFG 曲線의 기울기는 正의 기울기를 나타낸다는 것을 밝혀내고, 同染料의 CF曲線의 기울기가 負로 나타남에도 不拘하고 CFG曲線의 기울기는 正으로 나타나게 되는 理由를, Weber-Fechner의 法則이 染色物의 視覺에 依한 褪色判定에 作用하는 때문인 것으로 보고, 視覺判定에 依할 때의 染料의 褪色量($F_v$)은 $F_v=[logC_0-log(C_0-C_0F_t/100)]{\times}100/(logC_0+b)$ 但 $F_t$; t時間 照光後의 染料의 褪色量, $C_0$; 染料의 初濃度, b; 定數으로 表示할 수 있다는 것을 明白히 하였다. 아울러 染料濃度 增加에 따르는 日光堅牢度 上昇의 原因으로서 染料의 集合效果外에, 染料濃度가 視覺判定에 依한 褪色判定結果에 미치는 影響도 考慮해야 할것임을 明白히 하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

Based on the trend of pluralization and globalization the collapse of national borders now is a manifestation of mixed and compromised cultures and societies. It is also emerging as a hybrid fashion in fashion. Hybrid fashion means creating a new image by mixing various cultures beyond the time and space. This study aims to analyze the current state of Chinese fashion design and present its direction by grasping the characteristics of hybrids in the works of rising Chinese fashion designers in the era of pluralization. The research method was literature review and empirical research. According to the selection criteria of new fashion designers, 6 new fashion designers of 5 fashion brands were selected and their total 458 points works were analyzed. The analysis results are as follows. First, most of the time trade-offs were 'past and present' trade-offs that express Chinese traditional culture and the image of the past with modern design. The trade-offs between 'present and future' is expressed by mixing print patterns, colors and light with fractal art. Second, spatial trade-offs was expressed in the way of expressing Chinese themes in the composition of western clothing, expressing the Western themes in oriental colors, and inspired by Japanese culture expressed by deconstructionism, Third, the gender mix mainly used dark embroidery on women's clothing, while the men's wear showed a delicate feminine charm with a surreal pattern on thin and transparent gauze fabric.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제12권34호
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• pp.663-677
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• 1974

The social and psychological approaches to clothing researches by Fluge,l, Hurlock and Barr in the early 1930's have since been developed greatly. It has now been generally agreed that clothing is the symbol of one's personality and social status, for clothing is regarded as the second skin and a manifestation of one's emotional states as well. Based on this consensus, this study was intended to observe the possible relationship between one's clothing design preference-in line, color and texture- and interest. For this survey, 200 college woman students from four universities were selected at random, and an interest-test standardized by prof. Jung Bum Mo and a questionaire made of 20 items on the clothing prferences were given. The results as commputerized and analyzed are as follows : 1. Line Preference a) Structural line : It is quite obvious that those like straight line are interested in fine arts, and curved line in physics. b) Out-line : Among tubular, bell and bustle of the silhouette, those like the bustle have shown particular interest in music, and the tubular in politics and business. c) Style : There is a salient tendency that those like a dressy style are much interested in music, and casual style in physics and physical exercise. 2. Color Preference a) Favorite color : Those like red, orange and yellow show a high interest in artistic activities and physical exercise, and black, grey and white in politics. b) Variety and combination of color ; These have shown no relationship to the interest. 3. Texture Preference a) The touch : Those like the texture with the feeling the crisp and rough are interested in fine arts, and of soft and smooth in the field of social service. b) Fabric surface : Those like naturalistic pattern, i.e. print of flowers, show much interest in music and literature, and plain fabrics in physical exercise.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.859-868
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• 2007

퇴색된 출토복식의 염료를 판정하기 위한 장기적인 프로젝트의 일환으로서 본 연구에서는 울금뿌리로부터 추출한 염료와 추출염료로 염색한 직물을 실험실 조건에서 28일간 퇴화시킨 후 그로부터 생성되는 퇴화 화합물을 가스 크로마토그라피 질량분석법(GC-MS)을 이용해 분석하였다. 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-는 오븐 퇴화시킨 울금추출액 전체에서 지속적으로 검출되었으며, 그 양은 7일 퇴화시료 까지 급격히 감소하다가 그 후 28일까지는 서서히 평형을 유지하였다 울금추출액의 오븐 퇴화 결과 위의 다섯 개 화합물 외에 isovanillin과 vanillic acid가 새롭게 검출되었다. 28일간 퇴화시킨 PER시료에서는 isovanillin과 그 외에 feruloylmethane, 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-, benzoic acid, and vanillic acid가 검출되었다. 울금추출액으로 염색한 직물로부터는 feruloylmethane과 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-가 퇴화물로 검출되었다. PER 방법에서 검출된 isovanillin과 feruloylmethane, 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-, benzoic acid, vanillic acid등은 출토복식 중 울금으로 염색된 직물을 확인하는 데 주요한 대조구 화합물로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

Advance development of the internet has brought significant changes to the distribution structure of the fashion industry, resulting in decreased sales in Road shops and sudden growth of online fashion specialty shopping malls. As detailed analysis on internet fashion shopping malls is necessary in order to make a future projection on changes in the fashion industry, this thesis aims to study the color, fabric / pattern, silhouette, item / detail, image, etc of 2008 S/S apparel fashion style sold in the top ten shopping malls, selected in terms of sales volume and awareness. The results were further analyzed to characterize each individual shopping malls, upon which the design was compared with the five main trends for the season provided by three fashion research agencies in order to study the level of trend acceptance. Studies showed that 'Romantic Sake' trend was most widely accepted, followed by 'Eco Nature' which most reflected the characteristics of Spring. 'Modern Ethenic' trend was most aggressively accepted at more upscale shopping malls targeting older demographic, while " Play Urban' was highly accepted by shopping malls specializing in young casual. Due to the disadvantage of not being able to try on the items before purchase, styles following the 'City Luxe' trend featuring fitted suits showed the lowest trend acceptance. Amongst the design elements, color was most widely accepted.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.