• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.505-514
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• 2017

Although studies on the development of cool touch fabrics have been conducted widely, the effects of fitted pattern on enhancing the cooling sensation are insufficient. To investigate the effect of cool-touch fabric and fit of women's sports underwear, 3D and 2D patterns of sleeveless top and sports leggings were constructed. The performance of cool touch was tested by the Qmax value and wear test with nine subjects. Objective fit evaluation was observed by 3D virtual clothing using Clo software. Subjects rated wearing sensation such as 'cooling sensation, fit, wear comfort and preferences of purchase' using Likert's scale in the environmental chamber at $25^{\circ}C$, 45 %RH. The Qmax value of the cool touch fabric was higher than that of the PET fabric, which was well reflected in 'cooling sensation', especially in the case of a tight-fitted 3D pattern. The cooling sensation of the cool-touch fabric was not significantly elevated with 3D tight pattern as long as the size of the 2D pattern was similar to that of 3D pattern. However, the purchase preference was highly correlated with 3D fit and wear comfort.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.485-491
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the wearing fitness of middle aged women's jacket with non-Stretchable Fabric and stretchable fabric. We surveyed the size of jackets and process of pattern making with stretchable fabric in companies which produce the clothing mainly for middle aged women. Based upon the result of process of pattern making, two kind of experimental jacket with non-stretchable and stretchable fabric were made. We measured space length between body and garment using 3D scanner and analyzed the clothing pressure 7 parts of body with 3 kinds of arm raising. The result were as follows : 1. Most parts of space length except bust were higher in non-stretchable jacket than in stretchable jacket. 2. Clothing pressure showed greater value with non-stretchable fabric jacket than with stretchable fabric jacket. Clothing pressure in upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arm raising increased. Therefore, the sleeve width and armhole depth should he considered when the amount of wearing ease were reduced in jacket with stretchable fabric.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1103-1113
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• 2009

Now in the 21st century, all the industries in our world are rapidly changing, including fashion trends and customers' needs as well. Fashion textile planning is also developing towards the direction where it could satisfy the merged sensitivity and incentive of the customers through an idea. The purpose of this study is to accentuate the importance of fashion material planning in fitting conventional patterns and eco-benign fabric materials. Accordingly, this study is mainly focused on the reflection of fabric planning characteristics to show tradition containing comfort and naturalness. As mixing with established fabrics and blending with natural/functional fabrics, and conforming to the trend of the seasonal fabric, it has developed a new structure and pattern by changing the basic source of traditional patterns to a computer aided design system. Therefore, four different types of items were basically up-graded by fitting it in with traditional patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.864-870
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• 2000

The purpose of this study were to investigate clothing design preference (style, color, fabric print, kinds of fabrics) & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear clothing for older Men. For this study, the questionnaires were administered to 650 older men in seoul from June to August, 1998. Employing a sample of 504 data were analyzed by mean, frequency and percent. With respect to clothing design preference, they prefer suit the style of outdoor clothing on going-out. On distinguish clothing into formal wear & casual wear, the color preference due to seasons has difference in spring clothing. Regarding the degree of fabric pattern preference, nonpattern single color fabric has occupied in formal wear, pattern in casual wear. Regarding the degree of fabric preference, they take a serious view of shape preservation in formal wear, utility (washing, sweat absorption) in causal wear. Suit has the lowest satisfaction in the fit of ready-to-wear clothing. Sleeve length the lowest in the degree of satisfaction for each part.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.1306-1309
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• 1997

Fabric hand feeling is an important property used in apparel industry. This paper shows a sensing method to output a fiber whisker's stick slip vibration by scanning it on the fabric. Then the vibration waveforms are transformed to the Symmetrized Dot Pattern images. Experimental results show that SDP images of fiber whisker's stik slip is potentially useful to the detection of fabric hand feeling values.