• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

본 연구는 신한복 철릭 원피스에 대한 선호도 조사를 통해 추출된 신한복 철릭 원피스 디자인의 신한복 철릭 원피스 원형을 개발하고자 하였다. 이를 통해 신한복 철릭 원피스 생산의 기초가되는 패턴에 관한 정보를 제공하고자 하였다. 시판 철릭 원피스 패턴 비교에서 우수한 것으로 선정된 D패턴을 변형하여 실험의 패턴을 제작하였다. 패턴에 대한 외관평가 분석에는 SPSS 26.0 프로그램을 활용하였다. 외관 및 의복압에 대한 1차 평가 결과, 어깨, 소매길이, 치마길이, 소매통의 수정이 요구되어 소매길이는 8.0cm를 줄이고 소매통은 총 1.0cm를 줄여 주었다. 치마길이도 5.0cm를 줄이고 어깨끝점을 양쪽에서 0.5cm 안으로 들여 어깨폭을 줄여 주었다. 2차 평가결과, 허리부위, 소매통, 치마 주름에 대한 수정이 요구되어 허리 2.0cm, 소매통 1.0cm를 줄여 주고 앞중심과 옆선 부위 주름을 제거하여 최종 패턴은 높은 평가를 받았다. 1차, 2차, 3차 간에는 유의미한 차이가 있었다. 향후 연구에서는 소재와 연령에 따른 철릭 원피스 원형 연구와 실제 제작된 의복의 착의실험을 통한 연구가 이루어져야 할 것으로 사료된다.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

1795년 윤2월 12일 서장대에서 행해진 군사훈련을 그린 <서장대야조도(西將臺夜操圖)>를 중심으로 관직자의 유형별 복식과 유형별 복식의 구성에 따른 특징을 고찰하였으며 고증 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 서장대 안팎에서 왕 가까이에 위치한 관직자는 모두 34명인데 당상관 27명, 당하관 7명이었다. 34명 관직자의 복식 유형은 모두 3종으로 갑주·융복·군복으로 분류되었는데 그 중 갑주 착용자 12명은 모두 당상관이었고, 융복 착용자 5명은 당상관이었으며, 군복 착용자는 당상관 11명과 당하관 6명이었다. 둘째, 갑주의 형태 고증은 말 타기에 적합한 여반 장군의 갑옷 유물과 『무예도보통지』의 갑주 그림을 참조하고, 착용의 실용성을 고려하여 갑옷의 구성품을 정하였다. 갑주의 구성품은 투구, 갑의, 갑상, 호항, 호액, 비갑에 골미를 추가하였다. 갑주 색상은 <서장대야조도> 갑주에서 가장 표현 빈도가 높은 홍색과 녹색으로 고증하였다. 셋째, 당상 융복의 구성은 호수를 장식한 주립, 남색 철릭, 홍색 광다회, 정, 수화자로 고증하였다. 넷째, 군복 구성은 안을 올린 전립, 동다리, 전복, 요대, 전대, 수화자로 고증하였다. 군복에서 당상과 당하의 직물차이는 문양의 유무에 있었는데 당상관은 운보문 직물을, 당하관은 문양이 없는 직물을 사용하였다. 그리고 당상관은 장식품의 세부 재료에서 옥과 금, 은을 사용하였다. 그 외에 무기는 시복, 환도, 등편, 비구와 깍지 등을 갖추었다. 정조대 기록에는 다양한 색의 협수가 보이므로 당상관과 당하관의 동다리와 전복 색상은 다양한 배색으로 고증하였다. 이상의 고증 결과를 반영하여 콘텐츠 제작을 위한 복식의 시각화 자료로 제시하였다. <서장대야조도> 관직자 복식의 고증 결과를 반영한 시각화의 기본 원칙에서 3D 콘텐츠 제작이나 실물 제작이 가능한 기준을 제시하였다. 시대와 신분에 따른 형태·색상·재질의 견본, 각 복식과 지물을 패용한 앞·옆·뒤 모습을 제시하고 색상은 RGB와 CMYK로 제시하였다.