• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.20-26
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• 1998

100％ viscose rayon fabric was treated with 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) by pad-dry-cure process in the presence of various catalysts. The dimensional stability, mechanical properties and hand values of fabric treated with BTCA were investigated. The ester-crosslinking reaction was influenced by the concentration of BTCA and type of catalyst. The fabric treated with BTCA was comparable or superior to that treated with conventional crosslinking agents such as dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea and 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone in respect of wrinkle recovery, shrinkproof property, retention of strength, and hand values. But in yellowing of fabric, the fabric treated with BTCA was inferior to that treated with conventional crosslinking agents. The fabric treated with BTCA/sodium formate was inferior to that treated with BTCA/sodium hypophosphite in respect of WRA, but had better strength retention and whiteness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.220-229
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• 1999

The subjective hand and preference of alkaline hydrolized polyester fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics was analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age the more senstive their feeling. As the age of evaluators decreased they felt fabrics light flexible refined thin flossy smooth fine soft more clinging. They also thought fabrics are colder, more flexible more spongy as the age increased. Experts were more sensitive and consistent when they evaluation the hand of fabrics than non-experts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.152-156
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• 2001

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.106-110
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• 2005

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions on the projectile and air-jet looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of projectile and air-jet looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.