• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.317-328
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• 2014

In this study, differences of texture image and preference for men's suit fabrics according to mechanical properties, hand and fabric information were investigated. 55 subjects evaluated texture image and preference of 12 kinds of wool blended fabrics. For statistical analysis, t-test and pearson correlation coefficients were used. The results were as follows: Most of mechanical properties effected on texture images, and bending property and shearing property were effected on tactile preference and purchasing preference. For hand, objective hand values showed correlations with subjective texture images and preferences, but THV had almost no correlations. In sensory images according to presence of fabric information, fabrics were evaluated thinner, lighter, more pliable and smooth by cognition of wool blending ratio. For sensibility images, fabrics were evaluated more refined, intellectual, dignified and less practicable after recognize of wool blending ratio. In preferences, tactile preference was increased and purchasing preference was decreased after recognize fabric information. Therefore, significant differences of texture image and preference were observed according to presence of fabric information.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the efficiency of four different cleaning method of silk and to fabrics, which were excavated from the sixteenth century tombs. The four cleaning methods were hand washing in water and hand washing in solvent, washing in ultrasonic cleaner, and using of ultrasonic gun after washing in ultrasonic cleaner. The following is the result of the experiment: ㆍBoth silk and jute fabrics shrank the most after hand-wash in water. This cleaning method decreased their thickness the most but changed their strength the least. However, the color of the fabric changed the most after had-wash in water. This washing method might discolor the dyed fabric, so one must check the condition of the fabric thoroughly before washing it. ㆍThe weight and the thickness of the fabric changed little after ultrasonic cleaning. This cleaning method, therefore. is less efficient than hand-water-wash. The use of ultrasonic gun after ultrasonic wash for partial cleansing enhanced the efficiency a little. Nevertheless, this method left stain around the area where the gun was used, and the injected water could damage the fabric. ㆍThe excavated fabric became softer in the cleaning process as the dirt was washed away. In both cases of silk and jute fabrics cleaning, solvent made the fabric softer than water. Washed in solvent, the fabric did not swell. But water penetrated to the fiber during the cleaning process and made the fabric swell. When the water evaporates, the swollen fiber structure collapses and the fabric become stiff. Ultrasonic wash did not cause much change in the flexibility of the fabric, for this method does not remove the dirt as effectively as the other method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.23-30
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• 2006

Various high-touch textile products have been developed recently including ultra-fine denier filament yarn fabrics. The touch or hand of high value-added products is of prime importance. Physical and mechanical properties of fabric specimens, ultra-fine denier filament yarn fabric specimen, 100% wool fabric and wool/polyester 50:50 fabric,were measured using the KES. Compressibility of the ultra-fine denier fabric is recommendable, possibly due to the good bulk property of the specimen. Overall, the THV of the ultra-fine denier fabric is positioned between those of the 100% wool fabric and wool/polyester 50:50 fabric. Observed differences in the physical and mechanical properties explain the fabric specimen characteristics reasonably.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.452-459
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• 1994

Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-57
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• 1984

Effect on the hand value and mechanical properties of blend ratio and weight had been investigated Oil summer suits for men. Relation between the mechanical properties and the deformation in behavior was also studied. The mechanical properties which influence the hand values and total hand value had been discussed and the relation between mechanical properties, hand values and fabric count had, too. As result, the following conclusions had been obtained. 1) The values of tensile properties increased with the increase of blend ratio of wool. The values of surface properties increased according to the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 2HB(bending properties) of polyester/wool blend showed higher value than that of $100\%$ wool, but there was no change in the shearing properties according to the blend ratio. The values of stiffness, crispness and anti-drape stiffness of blend fabric showed higher values than those of $100\%$ wool fabric. The value of fullness (including softness) of blend fabric showed lower value than that of $100\%$ wool fabric. 2) The correlation between hand values and mechanical properties showed following order. in stiffness : bending properties>surface properties in crispness: surface properties>bending properties in anti-drape stiffness: bending properties>surface properties>shearing properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.298-311
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• 2019

In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics of the knitted and woven fabrics for bedding items are investigated in accordance with fabric structural parameters including the fiber type and proportion, the density of the fabric, and the knit/weave structure. The knit stitches and structure of the knit samples made an effect on tensile properties. The bending, shear and compression properties for the knit fabric were mainly affected by fiber contents of the samples. The tensile and bending properties of woven samples were highly correlated with the fabric density, thickness and structure, and those shear and compression properties were affected by the fiber contents and structure. Consequently, the primary hand values of the selected samples we developed were estimated to have good smoothness, fullness and softness, and soft feeling, which is well correlated to the parameters of consumer preference such as softness, warmness, and bulkiness. Also, their total hand values were increased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.553-559
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• 2005

Hand characteristics related with structural properties of fabrics have something to do with mechanical properties of fabric. In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics have been analyzed according to fabric structural parameters such as the weave structure and the linear density of weft of cotton fabric. Mechanical properties have been used by KES-FB system which measures hand characteristics and mechanical properties of fabric. Linear density of weft, tensile, bending, and shear properties are decreasing with increasing weft linear density, and there is no considerable effects on compression and surface properties. In case of formability with weft linear density, B/W, 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, W/T except MMD/SMD, WC/T, and WC/W have been effected. There is a high correlation between the crimp, tightness, hand, formability and mechanical properties specially tensile linearity, bending, shear, and compression properties. The weft crimp influences the bending rigidity, shear properties, and the tightness which have effects on the tensile linearity, bending, shear, compression properties, hand, and formability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.327-338
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• 1994

KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.