• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

This study was carried out for the optimum predegumming in the protease degumming process of silk fabrics by ocmparing the physical properties of silk fabrics degummed with different weight losses of predegumming. 1. In twill habutai, the stiffness of fabric was reduced and the smoothness was improved with increasing weight loss of predegmming, however, the soft feeling value which means the total handle value of medium fabric for lady, was maximum at 20% of predegumming weight loss. 2. In the case of crepe de chine representing thin fabric for lady, the anti-drape stiffness was relatively increased with 22% weight loss of predegumming. However, the other physical properties, such as the flexibility with soft feeling were less related to the degrees of predegumming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.877-884
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• 2005

The importance and usefulness of a subjective evaluation of the sensorial properties of scoured silk fabrics is discussed. Silk fabric was treated at 12 different scouring rates and the scoured fabrics were used as specimens. Using paired comparisons, three trained subjects, evaluated seven subjective sensorial properties; softness, elasticity, drape, stiffness, crispness, and luster. A quad experimental design was adopted as an effective and reliable evaluation method. Results showed that some properties such as drape, luster were easily discriminated depending on the scouring rates whereas the smoothness was not easily discriminated. As the scouring rate increased, it was hard to discriminated the softness, drape, and stiffness, which indicates there is an optimum scouring rates to have a certain sensorial properties. It was suggested that these results should be applied to the manufacturing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.49-53
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• 1981

This study was carried out to investigate the drapability of polyester double jersey skirt Drapability is an important aesthetic properties of fabric on clothing construction, In this thesis weight, shearing, bending and non-isotropic characteristics of fabric were regarded as important factors of drapability, Especially for drapability of skirt, I investigated hem effect on various length of hem and skirt, The results were as follows, 1. The less the weight of fabric was, the greater drapability appeared. On fabrics, large pliability and modulus of shear have good drapability, 2. On clothing cutting, non-isotropic property affected on drapability of clothes remark-ably. Drapability order of clothes was greatest in bias direction, next in wale, course direction, 3. The shorter the skirt length and closer at hem line were the larger the hem effect influence upon the drapability of skirt was.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.135-138
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• 2004

Because the compressive properties such as compressive stiffness and compressive maximum strength of the fabric composite materials are essential to analyse the drape behaviour and estimate the quality of the final products, compressive tests of fabric composites with different stacking sequences were performed. Appropriate shape and dimensions for the compressive test specimens were prepared and several specimens with different conditions were tested and compared with each other.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.150-158
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• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.119-132
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• 2016

Weighting of silk fabrics have long been practiced in silk fabric trading based on the primary consideration of price-weight, and secondary one of quality improvement in handle, luster, and drape properties. Recent trend of practicing weighting of silk fabrics is, however, focused on the improvement of the handle, luster, drape, and other properties. During the finishing processes of synthetic fiber, nylon, comprising amide structure, include the use of tannic acid, especially in the dyeing. A multitude of studies are being implemented in terms of improving fastness to washing, fastness to light of dyed nylon product, or the light fastness of nylon 6 itself. In this study, the effects of various tannic acid treatments on the physical properties related to the handle of nylon 6 and silk fabrics are examined and reviewed. The effects of treatment condition of the tannic acid, e.g., the concentration of the aqueous tannic acid solution, treatment time, and temperature were investigated. As the concentration of the aqueous solution of tannic acid increased, the bending rigidity values of the silk and nylon 6 fabrics increased. The treated fabrics felt stiff to the touch. Within the mild conditions of bending employed in the bending measurement of KES, nylon 6 treated fabric specimen exhibited a trend of improvement of bending resiliency within the range of small bending deformation. The weight of treated fabrics have all increased. The air-permeability values decreased as the treatment concentration increased. However, the decrease tendency of air permeability values may be alleviated by adjusting the fabric count during the tentering or expanding processes, either by tension adjustment or heat treatment. Optimum conditions of the treatment for nylon 6 are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1, and those for silk fabric treatment are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1. The treatment conditions will lead to the improvement in the properties of fabrics for summer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.881-891
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• 2021

This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.191-196
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• 2011

Fabric extraction force measured through nozzle tester reflects a comprehensive fabric handle. Nozzle tester takes advantage of low cost, and simple and fast operating procedure compared with KES system. The paper is to develop the semi-emprical equation for assessment of the fabric handle measured with nozzle tester on the basis of friction law. The variables considered in the equation arc fabric's frictional coefficient and drape coefficient which is determined in terms of fabric bending length and shear strain. The experiment of 12 different cotton and polyester fabrics and comparisons between experimental and theoretical results were conducted. Fabrics of high frictional coefficients, high bending length, and low shear strain showed high fabric handle forces (low handle values). The handle forces predicted from the equation agreed well with those measured, which indicates that the equation can be used to objectively evaluate fabric handle with respect to fabric's own properties and also provide an information for fabric design to improve the handle performance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.783-791
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• 1996

The effect of alkali treatment on the changes in characteristics, mechanical properties, and hand of polyester fabrics was studied. Two kinds of fabrics having different yarn deniers were treated varying weight loss. The results were as follows; 1. Changes in constructional characteristics by alkali treatment were: a decrease in weight & thickness of fabric, a decrease in yarn denier, a decrease in apparent density of fabric, an increase in porosity to air, and a change fiber surface. 2. As for the changes in mechanical properties by alkali treatment, findings were : an increase in WT, RT, MIU, LC, and WC, a decrease in LT, B,2HB, G,2HG,2HGS, MMD, SMD, and RC, ana an increase in drape. 3. Changes in hand by alkali treatment were: a decrease in KOSHI and HARE, an increase in FUUURAMI, SHARI, KISHIMI, and SHENAYAUASA, and an increase in T.H.V 4. In the case of the same weight loss, the hand of 40/24 fabric being composed of thinner yarns was better than the hand of 50/24 fabric. 5. When 50/24 fabric was treated to have the same weight with 40/24 fabric, so the yam deniers of two fabrics were the same, the hand of 50/24 fabric having larger weight loss was better than the hand of 40/24 fabric.