• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.372-385
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• 2022

In this study, the patterns expressed on nineteenth-century blue and white porcelain among Joseon white porcelain were selected as the material for the development of the car seat fabric design. It was intended to be applied to car seat design by incorporating Korea's own traditional patterns to fit modern sensibility. First, seven pieces of nineteenth-century blue and white porcelain were selected through the literature, and motifs were produced using adobe illustrator, a computer graphic program. Seven car seat fabric designs were developed according to the construction method and development method of the produced motif. Work 1 was designed to elicit a soft and feminine atmosphere using the peony pattern shown in Table 1-1. Work 2 aimed to express a luxurious atmosphere using the image of the mountain expressed in Table 1-2 as a design material. Works 3 was designed by freely arranging the letters of luck expressed in Table 1-3 to form a free and dynamic image. Work 4 was intended to express a stable and rhythmic atmosphere by horizontally arranging the images of the gently curved wings, tail, and rhythmical tail feathers of the phoenix expressed in Table 1-4. Work 5 was designed in a vertical arrangement using the patterns and silhouettes of the tiger's back expressed in Table 1-5. Work 6 was designed using the wave pattern expressed in Table 1-6 to replicate the rhythmic atmosphere. Work 7 was designed using the images of rocks, waves, and the sun in Table 1-7 to express a calm and antique atmosphere.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1215-1226
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• 1997

Textiles in Bali have traditionally played a vital role in the social economic and religious life of the people. Textiles defined the status of the individual in term of both costume and wealth. Use of the various textiles is in Balinese tradition dictated primarily by rules of the Hindu-Balinese faith. Cloths and clothing are employed in worship of God and the ancestors. Gold songket patterned textiles are perceived as symbol of wealth and prestige and provide a fitting display of affluence at important cerenlonial events. The specialized pieces of clothing, temple banners and hangings are unique to each tribal group ranging from weft -patterned textiles in Bali. The impact of Indian ideas and techniques was important in the field of textiles, and many of the characteristics in Bali's fabric design derived from Hindu-Buddhist mythology that has furnished subject-matter for songket textile art. The purpose of this study is to examine the background of Balinese culture and to define the characteristics of Hindu-Balinese textiles. The songket textile design also analyzes by examing the techniques of songket weaving and the meaning of design, pattern, and motif. Many design and motifs convey important messages significant only to those familiar with the particular social religious principle of people who have produced them. It is only by seeing cloths in their cultural context that we can begin to understand their true value and meaning.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.15-33
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to categorize the decorative characteristics of the Rococo Age, which displays the most glamorous and elegant decorative beauty, in architecture, interior decorations, paintings, and patterns, and to analyze these characteristics and graft them onto art masks in a modern way. Piece I is a mixed media piece that based its motif on the ceilings and pulpits of the German Vis Pilgrimage Church, which is representative architecture of the Rococo Age. It was glamorously produced using gold and cubic zirconia. Piece II is also a mixed media piece that borrowed its motif from the exterior and gazebo of the Sanssouci Palace in Germany, another representative piece of architecture from the Rococo Age, and it was produced to clearly display the image of the Sanssouci Palace, using emerald and ivory. Piece III applies the furniture trends of the Rococo Age. Curves in S and C shapes, which can often be found in Chinese furniture, along with dark backgrounds, common in portrait paintings, were applied to give a sense of weight and dignity. Piece IV is an application of the fabric patterns of the Rococo Age. Continuous patterns of flowers and greenery stems were drawn on the mask to recreate the fabric patterns of the age. Piece V used the painting 'Swing' of the Rococo Age as its inspiration. Lace and ribbon decorations were used to emphasize feminine beauty and express the loveliness of the woman that appears in the painting. Piece VI borrows from the painting 'Madame de Pompadour' of the Rococo Age and the clothing worn by Pompadour. This piece grafted colors and themes through the painting and expressed a fusion of the dresses of Pompadour and lace that is clearly displayed in the architecture, paintings, clothing, interior decorations, and patterns of the Rococo Age, along with the rocaille (asymmetrically shaped decorations that resemble clams), flowers, leaves, stems, and Chinoiserie styles. These motifs clearly display the decorative characteristics of the age and these were grafted them onto art masks, confirming that it is possible to create new designs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.908-922
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.29-42
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• 2012

Historically, the pattern and technology of Copts' textiles, who were a minority in Egypt, have been studied a lot in the textile sector due to its unique characteristics. Unlike ones in other regions that appeared around the same time, the overall configuration ratio of the patterns looks exaggerated or distorted because they expressed it plainly by interpreting the world with ordinary people's eyes. Also, because it had used mixed linen and woolen yarns, harsh expression way and the use of various colors have been one of the features in Coptic textiles. Coptic textiles, which have been developed along with the historical development of continued domination from neighboring countries, have expressed the effects of the Roman Empire, Christ, Christianity, and Islam on the pattern of its fabric. This study analyzed its characteristics which make people smile by the way of expressing a simple and humorous representation of the textiles and categorized them as Humoristic Beauty - the aesthetic category of humorous feature. In this study, the Humoristic Beauty in Coptic textiles has been analyzed in terms of the following three smiles; the smiles coincidental with the flow of time, the smiles made by the shaping of distorted proportions and appearance, and the smiles like folk-paintings made by a rustic expression way. This study shows the possibility of the further studies on the textile patterns history from a different angle. I look forward to more detailed analysis in the follow-up studies in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.946-955
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.