• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.127-144
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• 2022

This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.224-233
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• 2022

Recently, consumer tastes of various classes at home and abroad prefer comfortable, unadorned, and simple clothing, and the athleisure trend, which can be used freely in daily life as well as exercise, has expanded to overall clothing products. Existing materials used for athleisure are composite knitted fabrics using polyester yarn and PU yarn, which has problems due to a chronic lack of color fastness and contamination by dyes even when PU laminating is applied, making it difficult to apply various colors. There is a quality problem in which deformation of the product occurs due to lack of durability. In this study, CDP yarn(75de/72f) and PU yarn(40de) were selected to commercialize the circular knitting for athleisure using CDP yarn in order to solve the problems that occur in the dyeing and laminating process when using polyester materials. CDP yarns were used to knit into single(CP75-S) and double(CP75-D) knit and single knit were found to be suitable as athleisure fabrics. After pretreatment and treatment under various conditions, the stainability of CDP circular knitting was examined. After pretreatment and dyeing process under various conditions, the property of scouring and dyeability of CP75-S were evaluated.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.513-528
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of zero-waste design and to apply Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques to develop a zero-waste fashion design method that contributes to sustainable fashion design. In this study, we explore the method and characteristics of zero-waste fashion design based on the concept of folding described in Sophia Vyzoviti's book on folding techniques. Using the autonomy of Sophia Vyzoviti's folding technique, four changeable folding fashion designs were developed and produced, demonstrating zero-waste fashion design. The results were as follows. First, the development of fashion designs using Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques enabled the development and production of free and creative zero-waste fashion designs that were three-dimensional, continuous, fluid, and full of potential. Second, the production of zero-waste patterns was further developed into a transformable fashion design that can be used with geometric patterns. These folding techniques produced a fashion design method that could transform one piece of clothing, demonstration the potential for maintenance of creativity using a zero-waste design based on these folding techniques. Third, the double-faced fabric, Neoprene, was chosen as an appropriate material as it emphasizes the depth of folding with application of two colors and its cotton/polyester blend that is suitable for folding.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.776-792
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1994

In the 20th century, The artistic world was constantly producing new ideas and movements and the world of fashion responded to and reflected them all in greater of lesser degree. Dress designers have always been aware of what is happening In the arts and have always been able to use the discoveries and ideas of the artist to help them solve design problems and create fashion which are new, inventive and reflective of thier time. Up to the present, other researchers have investigated the connections between the fine arts and the Modern Fashion. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the characteristics of painting of the Impressionism on the Modern Fashion. In order to investigate the relationship between the trend of painting and Modern Fashion. Especially, Impressionism's light and color affected both 20th's painting and other sorts of art. That is, the trend of the modern painting, Fauvism, Cubism, Surrealism, Abstract art, Abstract Expressionism, was influenced by Impressionism painting. Similarly, in the sihouette, line, color, fabric pattern of the Modem Fashion was represented characteristics of the Impressionism Painting. The fashion's Fauve, Paul Poiret was excited by the power of color in the same intense way as the 'wild beasts' of art. The color of his clothes during that period was bold and brilliant. Gabrielle Chanel simplified the shape of women's clothes to a square cardigan and rectangular skirt. This was a cubist concept. Art and fashion probably held hands closest in the 1930s, when Elsa Schiaparelli was creating clothes directly influenced by the Surrealist thinking of Salvador Dali. And she burst upon the fashion world with a sweater that had a trompe I'oeil bow. Soma Delaunay was one of great pioneers of Abstract in. She proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and created the geometric and abstract patterns of the clothes and fabrics with her strong color. The influence of Abstract Expressionism was expressed the fabrics of the Modern Fashion. Some fabrics used in Modern Fashion are printed in a dripping pouring and splashing style. For the future, some futher research to investigate the art-fashion connection might involve establishing systematic classifications for silhouette, line, texture, color of the fashion. Moreover, in order to study the influence of fine art on the fashion, a broader approach might wish to analyze the relationship between painting and other plastic arts.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.321-331
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• 2016

Textiles damage caused by acetaldehyde($CH_3CHO$) is not clear as compared to other materials. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyed with 4 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to $CH_3CHO$ gas in the test chamber. First, textile specimens' damage by differert concentration of acetaldehyde(0.1, 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500, 1000 ppm) was tested. Second, accelerared damage to the textile specimens were tested according to the temperature and humidity conditions at the damage levels. Third, damage of deliberately degraded textile specimens were examined at the damage levels. After the exposure, optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out. As a result, at 1000 ppm/day, the color difference of cotton_yellow has increased. At the condition of $25^{\circ}C-80%$, $30^{\circ}C-50%$, $30^{\circ}C-80%$, the color difference of yellow specimens has increased and grey scale rating has decreased. At $30^{\circ}C-80%$, acetate of cotton_undyed increased and the pH of silk_undyed decreased. In the case of deliberately degraded textile specimens, actetate concentration of black specimens increased. In conclusion, damage to the traditional fabric by acetaldehyde is not impact. However, it is expected that yellow specimens will be bleach and black specimens' actetate concentration will be increase.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.113-124
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to designing a scientific and systematic merchandising program for infants' wear brands. For this purpose, designer and MD working for 8 local infants' wear brands were surveyed to analyze the conditions of their designing and merchandising of infants' wears. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Only 3 brands employed MD for their merchandising departments. The average number of clothing designers employed by the subject brands was 3-5, while that of colorists was 1-2, and that of accessory designers was 2-3. On the other hand, the average number of patternmakers employed was about 1, while that of sewer was 4. 2. Many of the sample infants' wear brands tended to collect and analyze the information for merchandising, while most of them relied less on outside planned data. The information source upon which they relied most was 'local and foreign fashion magazine', followed by 'data surveyed by local and foreign department stores' and 'data surveyed for local fabric markets' in their order. Meanwhile, the main color represented 70-90% of the total colors, while the pastel groups accounted for 30-40% and vivid color groups for 40-50%. On the other hand, knit accounted for about 60% of their materials, while woven and sweater accounted for 30% and 10%, respectively. 3. In overall terms, most of brands felt that their brands were preferred as much as or less than their competitive brands, while consumers felt expensive for infants' wears. Namely, most consumers were dissatisfied with the price levels of infants' wears. On the other hand, consumers were found to favor the pastel color groups a little more, while being aware of each brand's sizes more or less precisely. 4. The medium upon which the infants' wear brands depended most for their advertisement was 'magazine', followed by 'radio' and 'catalogue' in their order. Most of them were analyzing the results of their sale turnover monthly or frequently in order to review their sales performances in comparison with their competitors. Most of brands bothered to program a sale strategy 4 times a year, primarily to dispose the stocks or find a breakthrough for their sales activities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.63-74
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• 2005

The cinema costume designers carry out the creative works in a different way from the commercial fashion designers generating the new trends by season or year for a number of people. Costumes created by the cinema costume designers are for the people acting in the film screens such as heroes, heroines or extras. The cinema costume designers should not miss the overall flow of a cinema. Moreover, the prominent designers have to devise the costumes livening up every scene. Most cinemas with the prudent interests and attention on the costumes are favored by the public and gain the commercial success. In particular, the cinemas emphasize the visual effects such as setting, lighting and computer graphics and require the substantial budgets for preparing the costumes regardless of genres, while all other industrial fields will be the same. Such efforts are to deliver the meaning and aesthetics that the cinemas intend to show through the designs, colors and textures of costumes closed up in each scene. The costumes in cinemas are another linguistic system and have the symbolic form of compound and meaningful communication used by the directors. The costume design is required to produce the costumes that liven up the characteristics of heroes or heroines as well as to fit for the general artistic effects of films. Moreover, it has to express the characters in the films using the costumes suitable for the film genres. Cinema costumes are defined and refined, and the process can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has its own proscenuium. Every garment worn in a theatrical production is a costume. Before an actor speaks, his wardrobe has already spoken for him. From the most obvious and flamboyant show clothing, to contemporary clothes using subtle design language, costume design plays an integral part in every film production. Costume design is a vital tool for storytelling. Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion. Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe budgets and battle the economic realities of film production. Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric and the human figure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.197-207
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• 1992

Expressionism, is as diverse as the artists invo)ved, in a very broad sense two main tendencies may be noted. The first is that of the Action painters, concerned in different ways with the gesture of the brush and the texture of the paint. It included such major artists as Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, Willem De Keening, and Franz Kline. The other group consisted of the Color Field painters, concerned with the statement of an abstract sign or tranquil image in terms of a large, unified color shape or area. Here must be included Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, Ad Rdinhardt, as well as, to a degree, Adolph Gottlieb, Robert Motherwell, and Clyf(ord Still. In this paper, 1 selected two artists Arshile Gorky and Jackson Pollock independent charac-teristics and studied the influence of their Action painting on the fabrics of modern fashion. However, it should be noted it was never the intention of the critic Harold Rosenberg, in coining this term, to imply that Action painting was a kind of athletic exercise. Nor is it true that the furious and seemingly haphazard scattering of the paint involved a completely uncontrolled, intuitive act. There is no question that, in the paintings of Jackson Pollock, Arshile Gorky and many of the other Abstract Expressionists, the element of intuition or the accidental plays a large and deliberate part; this was indeed one of the principal contributions of Abstract Expressionism which had found its own inspiration in surrealism's 'psychic automaton'. However, nothing that an experienced and accomplished artist does can be completely accidental. Aside from their intrinsic quality, the spun-out skeins of poured pigments contributed other elements that changed the course of modern painting. There was the concept of the all-over painting, the painting seemingly without beginning or end, extending to the very limits of the canvas and implying an extension even beyond. The feeling of absorption or participation is heightened by the ambiguity of the picture space. The colors and lines, although never punctur-ing deep perspective holes in the surface, still create an illusion of continuous movement, a billowing, a surging back and forth, within a limited depth. To study the influence of Abstract Expressionism on the fabric of modern fashion, 1 selected and examined four fashion magazines: Collezioni published in France, Bazaar in Italy, Gap in Japan and Vogue in the U.S.a. froim January 1989 to June 1991. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern clothing are printed in a dripping, pouring and splashing style without any meaning or form. Slides included in the presentation show that modern fabrics which are printed in such a style were influenced by Abstract Expressionism. The slides also show that these abstract prints are well suited to modern fashion design.