• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.15-25
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• 2009

The structure and material of Mang-geon from excavated tomb of Yi-ikjung in 1700', Seoul, were analyzed and identified. The Mang-geon was worn by Yi-ikjung when it is found. Until now, it is know that Mang-geon is made of horsehair, but it find out to be made of silk threads. This result verified the presence of 'sa-kyul Mang-geon' which been estimated to used only for document records. This proves Mang-geon has been produced in the silk threads as well as horsehair and human hair. The front and back of the Mang-geon was made of intertwisted silk threads by using simple linking method. Dang is constructed of looped linking method. The size of Dang is wider, which give greater flexibility to wrap top of head.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.6
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• pp.17-29
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• 2005

Excavated costumes included clothing that had been buried together with the corpse and shroud and unearthed during the excavation or the process transferring the tomb. The remains may easily get damaged under a different condition from the burial place, having gone through the deterioration process together with the corpse. In particular, since they are vulnerable to microbial propagation, suitable storage and conservation treatment immediately after excavation are required. Although more of them are unearthed in various parts of the country owing to exponential land development activities, they are rarely preserved properly due to a lack of appreciation of their value and a dearth of expert. Therefore, scientific examination and emergency preservation measures for the excavated costumes shall be described.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.668-677
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• 2004

This study examines the effects and influences of fumigation on the antimicrobial treatment of excavated dresses in two different museum settings using chemical composite of Methyl Bromide and Ethylene Oxide. The microbial test indicated that the prewashed samples contained Micrococcus, Bacillus, Staphylococcus, and some unidentified fungi and that the total number of microbes decreased after washing. While it was observed that most germs were removed immediately after fumigation, Bacillus was still found and its number even increased. After 5 months, the number of microbes found in Museum A was smaller than Museum B, which shows that Museum A equipped with better environment control facility was superior to Museum. B in terms of exhibition and preservation of dresses against organic damages. In addition, the result indicates that fumigation is an effective measure against the growth and reproduction of microorganisms, considering that the number of microorganisms decreased after fumigation. The color of test sample showed immediate change after fumigation but color difference became stabilized and decreased with the passage of time. The test samples from both museums showed similar patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.859-869
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• 2006

We proposed that the replicas be made as an alternative to achieve such reciprocal goals as the safe preservation of traditional costume relics and socio-educational realizations through exhibitions, etc., A replication was categorized for its purpose into a restoral replication: a work based on the historical research of color and shapes as they were originally made and a current state replication : a production based on a minute record of the relics as they are excavated. Then, we reported the reproduction process from the excavation to the exhibition on the excavated traditional costumes of Milchanggun's Jobok. The purpose of a replication of relics is to record the relics experiencing the change resulted from the inevitable degeneration over time as organic cultural assets together with the substitution exhibition of relics and academic researches and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.98-107
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• 2007

This study examines the men's coats in the early $17^{th}$ century through the excavated costumes of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$)'s tomb. Kim, Hwak was a literary man with a high government position. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, in the early $17^{th}$ century, there were many changes with the kinds and form of men's coats. From Kim, Hwak's tomb, there excavated 8 kinds of coats; Sim-ui, Dan-ryung, Jik-ryung, Cheol-rik, Do-po, Chang-ui, Joong-chi-mack, So-chang-ui, and they are 27 items. The characteristics of $17^{th}$ century costumes are well seen from these coats. Up to that period, Cheol-rik was worn as ordinary clothes, but from Kim, Hwak's tomb, there are 5 pieces of Do-po, and 15 pieces of Joong-chi-mack. This tells us that these items were widely worn after the $mid-17^{th}$ century.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.15
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• pp.38-55
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• 2014

Three costumes excavated from the tomb of Yu Gyeongjong ^1565-1623, which are now own at Buyeo National Museum, underwent conservation treatment. As a result of this treatment, the costume types were correctly identified and their original forms were restored. Through the restoration process, various key features were discovered, enabling the costume types to be correctly identified as a dallyeong ^{Official's Uniform with Round Collar}, jingnyeong ^{Coat with Straight Collar}, and changui ^{Coat with Slits in the Rear and Sides}. One of the newly discovered key features was a new variety of pattern that differed from the prevalent cloud pattern of the time. Also, on the dallyeong, it was found that the ground of the hyungbae ^{Rank Badge}, was made from yeongeumsa ^{Wrapped Gold Thread}. These costumes are significant artifacts showing trends, patterns, forms, and other key characteristics of clothing from the late sixteenth to the early seventeenth century.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.1
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• pp.243-255
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.