• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.117-129
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• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• 복식
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• 제34권
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• pp.169-182
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• 1997

Focusing on khotan located in the southern Silk Route which was one of the most important kingdoms in the Tarim Basin this study attempts to examine the changes of costume in Khotan by compar-ing the costumes in the painted panel showing the story of silk princess with the excavated costumes from ancient tombs. Furthermore this study attempts to inves-tigate the impacts of cultural exchange be-tween China and its western neighboring country Eastern and Western Turkestan on costume. Excavated costumes from the Shanpula ancient tomb in the region of Khotan and from ancient Niya in the esat-ern border of Khotan and discoveries from Rawak and Dandan-oilik near by Yotkan the ancient capital of Khotan are exam-ined. Basic Khotan's costume was the two piece style of tops and trousers. Over the basic costume wearing a top wear with half sleeves was popular. Skirt was worn by women. Even though there were many kinds tops were classified into the two types kaftan and tunic. Thouth Khotan maintained a association with China for a long time the style of Khotan costume had imbued to China. Top wear with half sleeves was worn frequently in Khotan. Also in China top wear with half sleeves was worn as over-wear which was called ban-xiu ban-bi bei-zi Costume style of China is covering the body profoundly and wrapping front edge toward the right. The types of chi-nese top wear with half sleeves for exam-ple round-neck·confronting front edge crossing-neck·confronting front edge tu-nic type discord with the traditional chi-nese costume style There were many cas-es that half sleeved top wear was worn as over wear in T'ang dynasty. The phenom-enon was due to the prevalence of 'ho' (foreign) and half sleeved top wear was introduced by the countries to the west of China Khotan. A round neck garment was a general type for the men of cuntries to the westof China. Also Chinese wore round neck garment since South and North Dynasty The type of Chinese round neck garment was not tunic but kaftan. From costume relics and ancient paintings the type of Khotan's round neck garment was tunic which was recorded on the Chinese histori-cal documents as " guan-tou-shan" that is tunic the type of persian costume, Even thgough the painted panel showing the sto-ry of silk princess was made in the it me when Turks was a dominion on Central Asia Khotan's costume style was not changed toward Turk's costume style and remained tunic style.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제9권
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• pp.67-83
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• 2008

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 청연군주 출토복식(신수751 의류 일괄) 중 織金 및 金箔이 있는 복식의 보존 처리 과정을 소개하고자 한다. 금사 및 금박의 비파괴분석(X-선형광분석:XRF)을 실시한 다음 표면의 금(Au)이 열화가 진행되면서 분상화된 금층에 아교 2%용액을 도포하여 접착력을 강화하였다. 표면의 먼지와 오염물제거를 위해 진공흡입을 통한 건식세척과 분사식 습식세척을 병행하였고 손상부분을 보수하여 유물의 원형을 회복하였다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제11권
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• pp.17-30
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• 2010

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 청연군주 출토복식(신수751 의류 일괄)중 전시 대상 26점의 보존처리 과정과 보관방법을 소개하고자 한다. 처리 전 유물의 재질과 손상정도를 파악하고 표면세척, 습식세척을 병행하였으며, 유물의 안정성을 고려하여 손으로 잡아주면서 건조시키고 보수하였다. 보관은 복식의 손상을 줄이기 위해 접힘 부분을 최소화하여 크게 접고 완충제를 사이에 넣고 중성상자에 넣어 보관하였다.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2013

울산시 북산동 출토 고려시대 칠사관모(漆紗冠帽)는 복식사적으로 상당히 귀한 유물로 고려시대 당시의 관모형태를 알 수 있어 역사적 문화적 사회적 예술적으로 사료적 가치가 큰 귀중한 자료라고 할 수 있다. 또한 본 유물은 상대적으로 유물이 부족한 고려시대의 실증적 정보를 제공하는 자료로 발굴 작업에 의한 출토품이라는 점에 의의가 있다. 본 연구에서는 오랜 시간동안 다양한 환경요인에 의해 영향을 받아온 유물의 보존처리를 통해 본래의 상태로 회복시키고 원형을 보존하고자 하였다. 그 결과, 실존유물이 상대적으로 부족한 고려시대 관모의 원형을 보존할 수 있었으며, 재질 및 구조분석을 통해 섬세한 사(紗)조직의 표면조직과 죽사(竹絲)로 제작된 바탕조직을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.16-27
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to identify the structure and characteristics for the reproduction of the armor in the Unified Silla period, and then reproduce and utilize it as a cultural content. In the armor reproduction project excavated from Jaemaejeong, Gyeongju. Jaemaejeong armor is consisting of Singap (身甲, body armor), Sanggap (裳甲, hip armor), and Sangbakgap (上膊甲, upper arm armor) at the time of excavation. Unlike the armor of the Three Kingdoms period, Singap and Sanggap are separated. Singap is Yangdangsik (裲襠式, side opening method) and Gyunggap (頸甲, gorget) was not unearthed, Sangbakgap was divided into a part that protects the left and right upper arms and a part that protects the chest, so that the unexcavated head and neck cover of the helmet can be protected to the shoulder. In addition, in the case of Chalgap (札甲, lamellar armor), the Oejungsik (外重式, folded from outside to inside) is mainly used, but it is peculiar that Naejungsik (內重式, folded from inside to outside) is used in Sangbakgap of Jaemaejeong armor. It is presumed that this was used as a method to ensure that the armor were closely attached to the human body. In order to design with the parade armor of Gochwidae in Gyeongju based on the reproduced Jaemaejeong armor, the designer's imagination and historical work of the times were involved due to the characteristics of performance costumes. Reproduced armor as a cultural content should be considered indispensable to simplify and lighten clothing suitable for performances based on the excavated historical armor.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.840-857
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• 2017

In 1995, the costumes were restored in an unknown woman's tomb at the Jeonju Lee's family cemetery in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-Do, and there are currently nine items remaining. In this study, we first introduced these 9 relics to academia and analyzed the morphological characteristics of the costumes. We also estimated the time and person of burial compared with costumes unearthed from other burials. Jeogories (short jacket) are all four items. One of these items was unusual in shape, and the upper part of the seop (gusset) was wrinkled and shaped. This type of Jeogori appears only till the 1520s in other tombs. There are also two skirts, one of which is characterized by a superimposed pattern. The top and bottom / middle part of the skirt were rolled up, and the skirt, which was double-rolled up in this way, was first discovered. An analysis of the shape of Jeogori and skirt indicated that the person buried in the Jeonju Lee's family tomb was believed to have survived until the early 16th century. Based on these estimated periods, as a result of looking at the genealogy of Jeonju Lee's family, it was concluded that the tomb was probably a woman named Lee Geum Myeong (李金命) born in the mid-15C and died between the late 15C and the early 16C.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The four walls of mural paintings in Afrasiab, Samarkand, have discovered: the indian-concept east wall, the west with the paintings of envoys from a number of countries bringing in King's letters or gifts, the south describing traditional ceremony celebrating the new year, the north with a picture of a Chinese princess on board beside hunting scenes. Overall, Sogdians in Afrasiab mural paintings of 7th century had following costume codes: a very short haircut or the Turkic queue, a rather-narrow-sleeved caftan with round-neck, a belt and boots. The west wall showed various costume style of a set of envoys from countries. First, a Turkic envoy had 3-6 rows of long plaits, wearing a caftan with two lapels and a belt - interestingly, Sogdian and Turkic nobles didn't wear pochettes. Second, a Chaganiyan had a hairband on his short hair, and his colorful round-neck caftan is decorated with animal-patterned medallions and a golden belt. Third, a Chach wore a jewelled hairband, putting gaiters on his pants. Forth, a Chinese was in putou with a round-neck caftan, and with a belt and sword around his waist. Lastly, also appeared a Koguryo envoy in white putou with a double-bird-feathered crown on top, wearing a long-sleeved yellow v-neck top, a belt, narrow-cuffed pants and boots. Identical to the Sogdian statues excavated in various regions of China are the appearance of big eyes and nose -similar to the warrior stone in Korea- a hairband, and a pochette down from the waist line. During this period, white and red were considered as prevailing colors for clothing: red and yellow among Turks. The costumes of characters in Afrasiab mural paintings were preferably made with the animal-patterned, sophiscated samite Zandanachi of Sogdiana.