• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.8
• /
• pp.151-160
• /
• 2002

This study implicates that the Danryoung(Formal dress) has been worn by the lady in Joesun dynasty. So far 8 cases of Danryoung excavated has been supposed to be worn by woman. The differences between man and woman's Danryoung is at the 'Somae(sleeve)'and 'Mu(gusset)'. Through those excavated Danryoungs, 'Somae' in Woman's Danryoung was straight and 'Mu' attached in outer layer of dress with rectangular form. From the excavated dresses, Ot-go-reum(strings) coloured violet and wider than man's Danryoung. It was also found as detached. Woman's Danryoung was decorated with gold brocade and excavated with belt. Through the dress and accessories excavated, it was estimated in mid-16C to early 17C. With this respect, it was implicated that Danryoung has changed its style to Wonsam after late 17C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.5
• /
• pp.71-86
• /
• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.2
• /
• pp.88-101
• /
• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.7
• /
• pp.98-107
• /
• 2007

This study examines the men's coats in the early $17^{th}$ century through the excavated costumes of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$)'s tomb. Kim, Hwak was a literary man with a high government position. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, in the early $17^{th}$ century, there were many changes with the kinds and form of men's coats. From Kim, Hwak's tomb, there excavated 8 kinds of coats; Sim-ui, Dan-ryung, Jik-ryung, Cheol-rik, Do-po, Chang-ui, Joong-chi-mack, So-chang-ui, and they are 27 items. The characteristics of $17^{th}$ century costumes are well seen from these coats. Up to that period, Cheol-rik was worn as ordinary clothes, but from Kim, Hwak's tomb, there are 5 pieces of Do-po, and 15 pieces of Joong-chi-mack. This tells us that these items were widely worn after the $mid-17^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.8
• /
• pp.125-136
• /
• 2007

This study is about the excavated female shroud while moving the graveyard of Nam-yang Hong clan in Yang-pyeong, Gyeonggi Province to other place. It is acquired as Yeon-An Kim clan who is a wife of one of Nam-yang Hong clan and history is estimated to 16th Century. Significance of this excavated female costumes is, 1) a Dan-ryeong, which is typical costumes during 16C. for woman is excavated. It is embroidered with peacocks shaped badge in fore and backside on a clothes, which is understood as the symbol of highest status but it is considered as much higher than actual status of her husband. from this, we can assume that burial costumes and regulation for actual clothes by the status are not exactly matched. 2) Various form of Chima and Jegori also found in the grave along with a Buddhist banner(幡) printed with Darani(多羅尼) which is unusual in Chosun dynasty, under confucian influence. 3) An embroidered design pillow was collected first time, which make us enable to understand the in-house life style of 16C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.197-205
• /
• 2001

It is possible to examine the costume of Chosun era that tombs excavated in chonnam area, have contained various kinds of clothes. There are six tombs in which costumes have been excavated in Chonnam provinces. One(Go un) is tomb of the early years of Chosun Dynasty and the other tombs is those of the middle years of Chosun Dynasty(16∼17 century). There were many kinds of Po which was called Jickryung, Danryung, Chullik, Dappo, Jangui, So-changui etc, and contained chechori, skirts, under-trousers in tombs. But there are not see Kuui, Dopo that excavated in other area. Chullik showed the features of winkle, sleeves and the ratio of length. Dappo was only to be seen in a Go uns grave. Mens chechori collar(kit) was called Mokpankit in all, and womans chechori collar was called Kalkit or Tangkokit. The length of chechori was different according to the times. Most trousers are types of underwear and also there are Sapok tousers, open trousers. The characterstics of excavated costumes are not regional feature but trend of the times. The costumes excavated in Chonnam area are similiar to those excavated in other area at the same times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.7
• /
• pp.47-59
• /
• 2015

This paper studies the conservation treatment of Lady Shim's costume, which was excavated in Jecheon Province in 2012. There were the significant problems, which were encountered in the treatment of the costume ; First the Jeogoris were transformed during the excavation, Second fibers were seriously deteriorated, Third most of the fabrics such as Chusa were readily deformed. To overcome these problems and to secure stability in the conservation treatment, we decided to alternate between two different washing methods ; dry cleaning by n-hexane and wet cleaning by water. The costume shape was recovered by steaming and by swelling with Hanji(Korean traditional paper). The combined cleaning method proved to be relatively efficient and stable. In addition, the shape of Chusa was well preserved by dry cleaning.(using n-hexane also solved the problem of bad smell after washing with organic solvents.) The effects of the conservation treatment on the excavated costumes could be seen in the change of Lab color difference. Washing made the distribution of Lab color difference narrower, which may suggest that the impurities on the fiber was removed by washing. In addition, the value of L was greater than a-value and b-value after the treatment. This result indicates that the change of value represents the change of color difference by cleaning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.7
• /
• pp.65-78
• /
• 2013

This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.8
• /
• pp.27-34
• /
• 2004

Jang Heung Lim's is a nephew's wife of Kim Duk Ryung, who had been served as a general of Chosun dynasty. When her Tomb was removed to another places there were excavated some articles such as six Korean traditional costume, Korean socks, Korean shoes (Mituri) and so on. The unearthed costume was designated as a monentous folk materials, No.112, and placed on Gwangju folklore museum. At that time, the mending work in the lost part of costume was not implemented. Only an act of textile conservation was worked. In the article, we go through the mending principles and mending methods in damaged parts of costume. First, the mending principles on the damaged costume are as follows : (1) minimize the repaired parts, (2) mend the only damaged parts, (3) use the same color and cloth as that of original ones, (4) use the appropriated stitching method (5) act the fixed framework in case of missing a outer cloth. Second, the mending method related to the damaged part are as follows : (1) the repairing method in the bodice and sleeve part of costume, (2) the repairing method in the hem of steeve, (3) the repairing method in the collar of costume, (4) the repairing method in the armpit part of costume, (5) the repairing method in the connecting parts between one and another width of Korean traditional long skirt. With this article, we wish that the repairing method in the cultural costume will be developed scientifically and specified efficiently.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.102-120
• /
• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.