• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.2
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• pp.9-17
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• 2000

This is a case study of conservation treatment of the textiles and costumes excavated from Soonchun Park's tomb in Eumsung, North Chungcheong province. When excavated, the objects were found fairly wet and badly smelled since they decayed in wooden coffin. They were wet-treated with deionized water to remove dirt and dried at room temperature, during which the objects were blocked and flattened to keep them in shape. Silk crepeline was under-layed and stitched to the damaged areas with silk-hair threads. Each costume was individually stored in a tray made of paulownia wood and flat textiles were rolled up in paper cylinders with 6 and 10 cm in diameter. Thymol was used to prevent microorganisms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.937-954
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• 2008

The Gollyongpo was worn by the King and the Crown Prince in Joseon dynasty as an ordinary wear. The research on the Gollyongpo is focused on the historic record of Joseon dynasty, Joseonwangjosillok. This study will analyze literature, paintings and relics. First, I have researched Ming's(China) representative document daminghuidian, and excavated relics from the tomb dingling. I examined the usage and characteristic, through various remaining literature data, artifacts and paintings. The Gollyongpo was worn for the various ceremonies as well as an ordinary wear. According to the periode, the style and color had changed. The King wore the red Gollyongpo with 5 clawed dragon pattern, the Crown Prince wore black one with 4 clawed pattern, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince wore black one with 3 clawed dragon emblem. After the Daehan Empire, the Emperor wore gold outfit and the Crown Prince wore red outfit. Sonyongpo recorded in the Gungjungbalgi is concerned as Gollyongpo with narrow straight sleeve, one of the Sejong University Museum's Collection. There is some Possibility that the Gollyongpo painted in Bongsado is woven with dragon design, I would leave this matter for next research task.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.16-31
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• 2007

This study is about the costume depicted upon the fraction of fresco which was excavated from Kumseong-li, Hwadae-Gun, Hamkyungbuk-Do, North Korea in 2004. According to the characteristics of its relics, this tomb was reported to belong to Parhae Dynasty(698-926). The fraction of fresco only shows below part of the knees of a man. A light red colored robe reaches down to his ankles on the back, whereas front part of it looks tucked up, which is likely to have slits on both side seams. Although tightly wrapped shins were reported as a pair of gaiters, there is no decisive evidence on the fresco. I suggest another possibility that this man wore slim pants. Also in order to figure out if these shins are considered as gaiters, I proceed comparative research on the historical sources about gaiters of countries and eras adjacent to Parhae. Consequently the idea that people of Parhae might have used gaiters turned out to be acceptable. The black boots show rather basic style: the toe tips are not pointed up, boot leg doesn't look either wide or long. These boots can not be identified with Ammohwa(暗摸靴) which the envoy Yang(楊) gave the protocol Miyakoyoshika(都良香) at his official visit to Japan, because Ammohwa has not yet been properly defined.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.171-191
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• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.6-10
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• 2006

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.