• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.51-60
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• 2018

This research focuses on the development of upcycled denim fashion designs, whichis a more specific category within general upcycled fashion design. Characteristics of upcycled fashion design, which has been identified previously by researchers, include the following traits: environmentality, uniqueness, aesthetic appeal, availability, convertibility, and deconstructivity. The expression principles include recycling, substitution, recombination, and reduction. The result of the analysis of the denim fashion design characteristics, which is based on the theoretical analysis, has found. The external expression pattern consists of the deconstruction and reconstitution of materials, the avant-garde style and convertibility, the ability to mix and match materials and techniques, the production of zero waste, and the use of layering. The expression techniques used included decomposition, depaysement, weaving, cut-off, collage, assemblage, overlapping, connecting, attaching, and stitching. The inner meanings were identified as economicality through recycling, convertibility through rearranging, and the rarity and value of hand-made products. The result of the research applying the identified characteristics are as follows. First, developing and creating designs using modified denim and sub-materials with various expression patterns and techniques could provide completely new images unlike existing denim products. Second, modifying the details while maintaining the basic format of denim clothing could provide unique and new possibilities for upcycled denim fashion design. Third, environment-friendly models with creative designs were developed by recycling used denim materials. This reduced waste and energy while maximizing the use of resources. This study expects contribute to upcycled fashion design research by recognizing the unique characteristics and value of denim material.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.15-29
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to examine modern people's lifestyle and identify their needs by analyzing clothing behavior through city nomads' attitudes in dairy life, tastes, and methods to pursue in their life. This study tries to understand substitute values as ethical life emerging recently, free life style of mental emotion, clothing behaviors, and fashion style represented by the results. Upon observing city nomads' fashion trend, tunics symbolizing flexibility and comfort and simultaneously reflect colors in a monk style or from basic items that have been used. City nomads' fashion trend also reveals androgynous freeness-and-easiness. City nomads reflect a folksy inspiration, and different cultural perspectives appear in a mixed fashion. Multi-purpose gypsy/boho style is ideal for traveling and occupying smaller spaces in line with the nomadic lifestyle reflectings an American casual image partially by way of gypsy or bohemian nuances. Motorcycle jeans symbolizing functionality for traveling are becoming a part of everyday life. The fashions discussed are categorized as urban, tourer, sports and road. Everyday sportswear - athleisure - is attracting attention enabling a healthy and sound lifestyle. Athleisure is fashion wear harmonizing workplace with leisure, and everyday life and social gatherings. Athleisure represents a significant collapse of the boundary of high fashion and street fashion. Urban- tech wear is light and enables modern people to perform garment and gear functions simultaneously, making storage useful using various technical devices by elevating activity and functionality. Urban outdoor fashion holding functionality and adding modern fashion in appearance has appeared.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.608-630
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to examine the relationships between citations and the research trends of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (RJCC) using bibliometric and network analyses. The results are as follows. First, the RJCC has been cited by a greater number of journals and high-reputation journals today. The RJCC has been mentioned in global academic journals in various fields, and it has been noted the most in environmental science. Second, because of examining the articles published in the RJCC over the past three years (2019 - 2021), it was found that the number of topics was evenly distributed in various subfields of the clothing and textiles sector. The RJCC principally deals with traditional clothing, ethics and sustainability, and technology, which means that the RJCC reflects the past, present, and future. As a result of conducting a cluster analysis using the Wakita-Tsurumi algorithm, the subjects of ethical fashion and sustainability were derived from the subdivisions of the RJCC. This suggests that the RJCC is a journal specialized in ethical fashion and sustainability sectors such as environmental, animal, and labor ethics. This study outlined the current status and future direction of academic journals in the field of clothing through an analysis of the RJCC's influence change and the relationship between citations. In addition, it is academically significant because it identifies research trends and knowledge-structure changes in the apparel science field by identifying changes in research keywords and significant research topics by sector.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.86-100
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• 2019

This study analyzed the characteristics of vegan fashion produced by H&M and ZARA with respect to materials, design, development, production, and marketing to create social value. The results of this study are significant because they can be used as a reference to develop a vegan fashion market. Regarding the research method, this study assessed the concept and status of veganism through a literature review and examined vegan fashion case studies by analyzing official websites and media content. The study's scope covers the period from 2005, when H&M was the first SPA brand to create a vegan product line, until 2019. The characteristics of Global SPA's vegan fashion were as follows. Regarding materials, alternative materials were developed and an expanded use of organic materials was implemented. Regarding design, development was achieved through design collaboration and upcycling. In terms of production, an animal welfare policy was adopted and a sustainable supply chain was established. Marketing employed a campaign aimed at encouraging increased consumer participation. The findings regarding the social value of H&M and Zara's vegan fashion were as follows. First, a cyclical economy was realized through circular recycling in the entire process of resource selection, production, and waste disposal. Second, because product consumption indicated the importance of ethical consumption and sustainable consumer participation, corporate financial activities were created based on shared values to accomplish the social outcome. Third, collaborations with luxury brands or vegan fashion designers built a collaborative ecosystem in which vegan fashions were released and consumer participation campaigns were implemented.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2013

This paper is focused on practical research regarding costume design and arts management that make use of local resources and which are influenced by local culture of Tokuji in Yamaguchi-city, located in a mountainous area in Yamaguchi Prefecture in the western part of Honshu in Japan. We will examine possibilities in fashion design through this study. This was a practical research project, done with cooperation between the university and local industry, with priorities being assigned by the requests of residents of the Tokuji area. In 2011 the Aurinko, Tokuji, Talo (it means the Solar Tokuji Building in Finnish) was decided as the base of activities. Other functions were gradually added on, including a salon for people of the area to exchange ideas and workshops for group discussions. This paper will specifically be focused on the handmade paper peculiar to Tokuji and traditionally used as a material in fashion. The fashion designs developed by this researcher's laboratory were strongly influenced by these styles of paper. These costumes were made with a handmade paper called "Kamiko" in Japan, that is aesthetic sense has been historically cherished. This paper suggests that the affluence and depth of costume design may be expressed not only by directly borrowing from these influences, but also by borrowing the traditional aesthetic sense original to Japan. Thus this paper will examine industry and culture simultaneously, examining in particular the impact of arts management and costume design using handmade paper manufactured locally.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1-18
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• 2016

This study examines the impact of consumer ethics on the CSR motive attributions and, the subsequent consumer perception of the firm's ethicality. Data of 512 adults were collected nationwide using a self-administered questionnaire online. Exploratory and confirmative factor analysis were employed to identify six underlying dimensions of consumer ethics, as follows: actively benefiting from illegal actions, passively benefiting from illegal actions, no harm/no foul, economic benefiting from illegal actions, intellectual property infringement, and pro-environmental behavior. In order to examine the relationships between consumer ethics, CSR motive attribution, and consumer perceived ethicality, a structural equation modeling test was conducted. The results demonstrated that actively benefiting from illegal actions, economic benefiting from illegal action, and pro-environmental behavior had impacts on CSR motive attributions such as strategy-driven attribution, value-driven attribution, and stakeholder-driven attribution. Consequently, strategy-driven attribution and value-driven attribution influenced the consumer perception of the firm's ethicality, whereas stakeholder-driven attribution did not. This study provides an understanding of the CSR attribution mechanism from the view of consumer ethics that are multi-dimensional. The ethical judgements on different types of consumer behavior lead to attributions of CSR motives and subsequently their perception of a firm's ethicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1438-1447
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• 2004

The purpose of this study were to examine if the buyers of counterfeits tend to care less about ethical beliefs than non-buyers among Korean, Japanese, and Hong Kong consumers, and if they have more supportive attitudes toward counterfeit products. 573 female college students living in Seoul, Tokyo, and Hong Kong were surveyed. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, and t-test were used. As the results, 65.8% of respondents had experiences of purchasing fashion counterfeits. Handbags among fashion counterfeits were the most frequently purchased by the respondents. The buyers of counterfeits tended to purchase counterfeit goods as more alternative of genuine products than non-buyers, and did not feel guiltier toward purchasing of counterfeits than non-buyers. Also, the buyers of counterfeits tended to have more positive attitudes toward the legality of manufacturing, selling, and buying of counterfeits than non-buyers. In addition, they tended to consider much more purchasing of counterfeits as a way to fight against big-firms than non-buyers. Finally, the buyers of counterfeits tended to have lower consumer ethics than non-buyers. Based on these results, global marketing strategies for fashion goods were suggested.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.136-154
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• 2021

'Slow fashion' has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.720-737
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• 2023

This study aims to merge Picasso's expressive elements and deconstructive fashion's formative traits, proposing an upcycle fashion design that fuses artistic and philoso-phical aspects. The analysis of Picasso's Cubism identified qualities like liberating revolution, fluidity of vision, geometric reducibility, complex symbolism, and creative imitation. The analysis of Derrida's deconstructionism revealed expressive traits: uncertainty, intertextuality, différance, and dis-de phenomenon. An upscale fashion design was developed based on six Picasso works featuring women. The design was created using the fashion design software CLO 3D and integrated clothing waste and scrap fabrics as materials.The results are as follows. First, upcycle fashion was viewed from a new perspective based on Picasso and Derrida's values. This perspective suggested creating better ethical values by upholding environmental protection in novel ways that overcome limitations rather than destroy existing values indiscriminately. Second, upcycle fashion design methodologies were derived from various perspectives utilizing formative features of Picasso's works and specific expressive features of deconstructed fashion. Third, the direction of mitigating waste and pollution from clothing production and transportation was revealed by making clothes in a virtual space using the CLO 3D program. This study contributed to obtaining various methods for developing upcycle fashion designs using own methods of Picasso and Derrida to diversify the approaches of upcycling, which is relatively stagnant in disassembling.