• 복식
• /
• 제56권5호
• /
• pp.105-117
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this research was to understand the process of American women's adoption of knickerbockers from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century. Articles and advertisements related to women's knickerbockers found from The New York Times were used as primary sources. Before 1920, women wore knickerbockers when they participated in sports including gymnasium, bicycling, and swimming. Knickerbockers were mostly worn with overskirts when women appeared in the public. Therefore, knickerbockers were categorized as underwear in the advertisements until the late 1910s. However, knickerbockers were even worn on the streets and in offices after American women gained suffrage in 1920. As more women adopted knickerbockers during the 1920s, the public criticisms and regulations on women's knickerbockers intensified. However, the articles on women's knickerbockers gradually disappeared from The New York Times, as they went out of fashion by the end of the 1920s. Considering the social situation and the change in womanhood during the period, I concluded that American women's adoption process of knickerbockers reflected the increase in women's mobility, and the change in gender roles and the definition of femininity.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권5호
• /
• pp.17-28
• /
• 2001

The purposes of this study were to arrange and analyze the Oriental Mode in 20th century fashion and to clarify that Oriental dress and its ornaments appearing as the main subject of Occident fashion gradually The results were as follows : First, Oriental Mode in 1900-1950s was prescribed as the 'Orientalism' to be expressed Occidental imperialistic viewpoint. Therefore, the Orient was used as the simple recording mark of the imperialism product or commercial motive and it was reflected in fashion. Second, it was explained in 1960-1970s as the 'Folklore Orientalism' that focus was moved into the folklore costume of Orient. Third, in 1980s, 'Ethnic' was conspicuous that reflected the traditional costume in the area of non-christianity. Especially, it was the decade that the Middle East attracted attention. Fourth, Oriental Mode in 1990s appeared as the 'Fusion' that Oriental and Occidental elements were mixed and compromised on equal terms. Fifth, it was expressed as a word 'Zen' that had natural fiber, moderate color and silhouette to be most basic and concise about human body at the end of 1990s. This study could confirm that the center of fashion was being converted into the Orient gradually. This may be understood as the pluralistic culture phenomenon. Namely, eclectic principle to recognize mutual style and individualistic nature and to utilize and mix was made, and this brought the conversion into Oriental sense of value.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제7권6호
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2003

This study has as its primary aims the following: to create a fashion design based on the aesthetic value of Art Nouveau which flourished from the end of 19 century to the beginning of 20 century. In this thesis, two themes, Rose Aroma and Iris Memory are selected among the flower patterns and are used to create two works. First, the Rose Aroma theme is for an evening dress of S-curve style made with Silk Jacquard based on rose image of Art Nouveau. For decoration, artificial rose and its stem, and leaves are used to highlight hip line. By such design associated with a flower garden, cubic effects are expressed as a design point. Second, the Iris Memory theme is for a wedding dress made with tulle based on Iris image of Art Nouveau. This dress has a special point in its top bra, underwear used like an outer garment, involving spangle, beads, pearl, and cubic in order to enhance its visual effect. These works are significant in presenting the development possibilities of various fashion designs by introducing Art Nouveau style into diverse modern fashions.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제3권4호
• /
• pp.19-30
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to overview the periodical changes of the fastenings, from the pins and buttons in ancient age to the velcro in these days, and to study the relationships of these various fastenings to the costume types, and also to research how it is applied to the latest fashion. The fastening is closely related to the costume types, being various in its form, like pins, fibula, brooches, buttons, lacing, points, hooks & eyes, press studs, zipper and velcro. It is clear from the fact that the fastenings have developed remarkably since 13th century when the costume became tightly fitting to the body, while the fastenings had been very simple, like buttons or fibula, for so long time from the ancient time to the 12th century. The end of fastening's development is to be fitting to the body and to make it easy to take on or off the costumes by use of it. In '99 S/S, '99-00 A/W $pr{\hat{e}t}-{\grave{a}}$-porter collections, ornamental fastening was more emphasized then practical one, probably due to the development of more stretchable fabric.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
• /
• 제50권4호
• /
• pp.419-439
• /
• 2014

In this study, the structural performance of a seven span masonry arch bridge was evaluated. Investigations were performed on Aspendos (Belkis) Masonry Arch Bridge which was located on road of Aspendos Acropolis City in Antalya, Turkey. The old bridge was constructed in the early of fourth century AD, but it was exposed to the earthquakes in this region and the overloading by the river water. The old bridge was severely damaged and collapsed by probably an earthquake many years ago and a new bridge was then reconstructed on the remains of this old bridge by Seljuk in the 13th century. The bridge has also been affected from overflowing especially in the spring of each year, so some protective measures should be taken for this monumental bridge. Therefore, the structural performance under these loading has to be known. For this purpose, an initial finite element model was developed for the bridge and it was calibrated according to ambient vibration test results. After that, it was analyzed for different load cases such as dead, live, earthquake and overflow. Three load combinations were taken into account by deriving from these load cases. The displacements and the stresses for these combination cases were attained and compared with each other. The structural performance of Aspendos Masonry Arch Bridge was determined by considering the demand-capacity ratio for the tensile stress of the mortar used in Aspendos Masonry Arch Bridge. After these investigations, some concluding remarks and offers were presented at the end of this study.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
• /
• 제19권12호
• /
• pp.319-328
• /
• 2014

지구 기후 변화 정책에 대한 논쟁의 대부분은 그들의 정치적 호소에 대한 초점을 맞추고 있지만, 이 논문은 계약의 약속이 보다 효율적임을 제기한다. 이 목표에 부합하는 기후 정책은 상당한 배출 감축을 목표로 한다. 이러한 시나리오가 지구 평균 기온의 증가를 제한한다. 21세기 중반까지 2010에 비해 40~70%에 의해 세계 온실 가스 배출량을 낮추겠다는 의미이며, 대기로부터 이산화탄소를 제거할 수 있다는 결론에 이른다. 이 논문은 환경과 개발(UNCED)에 관한 유엔 회의 자료를 분석하여 이러한 비교를 제공한다. 분석내용은 결론적으로 각 나라들이 협정에서 제시한대로 배출오염 물질을 줄이는데 이행하고 지구 온난화의 지속적인 발전방안이 요구되는 협력체계가 중요하다는 것을 확인하였다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제35권
• /
• pp.138-158
• /
• 2002

To compare and analyze technical system related to manufacturing of ironware during the period of the Three Kingdoms, an analysis was conducted on the minute system of metalwork, as study objects, of the remains of the Mt. Wolpyeong fortress wall in Daejeon in the period of capital during the era of the Three Kingdoms in the 5th century, the Sanwol-ri remains in the 6th century in Gunsan and the remains of ironware excavated from the great ancient tomb of Hwangnam of the Silla dynasty in the 5th century. The result of analysis shows that in the most of the casting products, the minute system of white cast iron were contained. While the iron part of decarbonization was in the system by casting as white cast iron in the central part, on the surface layer it was turned out that comparatively uniform 100% pearlite system of about 1~2mm degree was existing. The part of pearlite on the surface layer was caused by decarbonization, which appears in all the parts of blade front end and handle. Therefore, it was found that the iron part of decarbonization was manufactured by casting, and then was processed at the high temperature by decarbonization. For the products of forging, after processing the products on the basis of pure iron for materials, they manufactured the ironware that raises the strength by carbonizing that keeps carbon infiltrated on the necessary part, by the method of black smith welding that add pure iron to steel, or by varying the method of heat processing onto the part required of strength. Though limited, we could understand that the technical systems for manufacturing skill of ironware in the areas of Baekje and Silla were different each other. In the technical system for Hwangnam great ancient tomb in the Silla area, it is found that they had raised the strength on the necessary part by applying the steelmaking method of carbonizing in the last stage of production of products, in the meantime in Baekje area, it appears that they had produced steel in advance in the first stage of production of the products, and used the produced steel only to the necessary part.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권3_4호
• /
• pp.403-413
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to interpret the elegant dressing visualized in modem fashion on the basis of the concept of elegance in dress and its aesthetic characteristics from the holistic viewpoint. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding, considering from the documentary study. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. To grasp the trends of elegant styles since 1990s, contents analysis of the articles related to elegance in Vogue has been done. As a result, they have been classified into four groups of elegant styles which are Classic, Elaborate Couture, Soft Minimalism, Kitsch Elegance. Classic Elegance and Elaborate Couture Elegance represent traditional ones with conservative viewpoint. Soft Minimalism Elegance is a modem version of elegance. According to postmodernism as a open system, even kitsch has been refined to keep accompany with elegance fur aristocratic taste of high class. As a result of this study, in fashion from the 16th century to the first half of 16th century, elegance has been one of the significant aesthetic categories, resulting from the absolute domination of taste of high society. However in the end of 20th century it seems to start to fade in fashion trends such as mass fashion, youth culture, casual fashion etc. Rather, it can be thought that elegance has been expressed as one of the aesthetic values in dress, by virtue of its value of high class as well as its conservative stability.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권10호
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제4권1호
• /
• pp.19-30
• /
• 2002

The word 'lace' comes from the Latin, lacium, meaning a knot. There are two broad categories of lace: needlepoint lace and bobbin lace. Lace has enjoyed a multitude of uses, embellishing both liturgical and domestic objects. It has also played a major role in the history of western fashion, adorning the apparel of men as well as women. Lace lappets and cap crowns, cravat ends and veils were made for those who could afford them. Before the end of the sixteen century, more complex techniques were employed. The baroque period, needlepoint lace evolved from the early simple geometric patterns of punto in aria Which enhanced ruffs, to deeply scalloped designs, often referred to as collar lace, and thence to the bold and magnificent relief effects of Venetian gros point. Through the seventeenth century is noted for the infinite variety of its cravat, collar and kerchief, most of them lace trimmed and all artfully contrived for the wearer. The type of sleeve in women's dress reaching just below the elbow, ending in ruffles of lace which was called engageantes. Sometimes the ends of a fichu or headdress decorated of lace. In the nineteenth century, empress Eugenie's love of lace resulted in a marked increase in the use of that lovely, delicate fabrication. It was lavished upon sleeves, hats, capes, and handkerchieves. Entire flounces, parasols, jackets, and shawls of lace were created by skilled lace makers of Europe. By the time this magnificent piece was created, most lace was being produced by machine. Today, the tradition of handmade lace continues, but glorious examples are no longer made. However, the techniques have been taken up and revitalized within the fiber art movement.