• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.27-40
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• 1995

This thesis, based on the semiotic theory, compared the meaning of sign which is a grounding the military uniform of the category of clothings as a cultural sign for formative relation. As for the scope of study, I made the Amy's uniforms during the last period of Korea Empire from 1895 to 1909 as an object of amy thesis and analyzed their decument and photographes. As a result of analyse of military uniform during by semiotical application, I made clear that it has role of signal by underlying signal's aspect of sign, and it si a sign which could symbolize the class, national and periodical distinction.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.8 no.12
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• pp.310-321
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• 2008

In the era of the Korean Empire, the identity of nation is not secured, therefore police system are also changed many times which has not an consistent directions. There are efforts of the ruler to reinforce or protect the nation against the invasion of outside power in the process, of course. But these efforts which reinforce the power of despotic emperor and modernize the nation are disappointed by the exclusive control of japan after the Russo-Japanese War in 1904. Therefore, japan disseized the police power of the Korean Empire in various forms(general police and military police). And these general police and military police are faced role conflict often, finally integrate to the military police, which take root the basic model of colonial police in 1910.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.125-142
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• 2013

Soek(Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in East Asian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon's Seok as discussed in previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers' status, wearing situations, its morphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and then extracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The results of the study are as follows. For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) and No-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, red Seok was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period. This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of the use of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period, and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok's morphological structure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a result of the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form in which Gu, Eok, Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from the combination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song (宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods from Wei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurred in the Jin(金) period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-27
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• 1994

This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.38
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• pp.7-28
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• 2015

This article considers Chunhyanjeon written in Japanese by Jang Hyukju in 1938. His Chunhyangjeon was presented from among the collusion and crack of 'things Japanese' and 'things Chosun' discussed in Japanese literary world in the 1930's. This article analyzed the writing method and the meaning of the text. Jang Hyukju(張赫宙, 1905~1997) became known to Japanese literary world by the second grade nomination of the prize contest of the magazine Kaizo in 1932. Since then, he worked actively in the Japanese literary world by writing novels in Japanese and introducing the literature of Chosun. Thanks to his activity, the literature of Chosun drew attraction from the Japanese, which can be called 'boom'. Jang Hyukju was in the middle of this boom. So, his text presented the collusion and crack of empire and colony. We can make sure this issue from his play Chunhyangjeon. When he presented Chunhyangjeon, Jang Hyukju mentioned his purpose of writing. He intended to write modern play in new literary style. Chunhyangjeon was surely the material of things traditional Chosun, which was corresponded to the demand of Japanese literary world. Through the story of Chunhyangjeon, however, he formed the modern text style. He wrote in standard Japanese language, and described things from the perspective style which is often used in modern novel. And he renewed the character characteristically and arranged the structure of the play. His writing style showed clear distinction in the comparison to Chunhyangjeon written by You Chijin which was presented in Korean language 2 years earlier than Jang Hyukuju's. The text Chunhyangjeon written in Japanese by Jang Hyukju reflected specificity as a district of Japan. But on the other hand, a new literary method of modern realism was tried. Chunhyangjeon written by Jang Hyukju shows the cross penetration of empire and colony. And in his Japanese-language literature, the literature of Chosun is coexisting and playing variation.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.57 no.3
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• pp.473-493
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• 2011

This paper aims, first, to trace the trajectory of Sebastian Barry's dramatic works in terms of retrieving the hidden (hi)stories of his family members, and second, to analyze his most successful play to date in both critical and commercial senses, The Steward of Christendom, in terms of the tension or even rupture between Irish national history and the dramatic representation of it. If contemporary Irish drama as a whole can be seen as an act of mirroring up to nation, Barry's is a refracting than reflecting act. Whereas modern Irish drama tends to have helped, however inadvertently, consolidate the nation-state by imagining Ireland through its other (either in the form of the British empire or the Protestant Unionist north), Barry's drama aims at cracking the surface homogeneity of Irish identity by re-imagining "ourselves" (a forgotten part of which is a community of southern Catholic loyalists). Furthermore, the "ourselves" re-imagined in Barry's drama is more fractured than unified, irreducible in its multiplicity than acquiescent in its singularity. The playwright's foremost concern is to retrieve the lives of "history's leftovers, men and women defeated and discarded by their times" and re-member those men and women who have been expunged from the imagined community of the Irish nation. This he does by endowing "every life" with "an after-life" and "every demon" with "a fairy tale." The Steward of Christendom is Barry's dramatic attempt to bestow upon the historically demonized Thomas Dunne, an Irish policeman in the British Empire, his fairy-tale redemption.

• Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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• v.24
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• pp.335-364
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• 1996

The colony education policy of Japanese Empire was, as a su n.0, ppression on national salvation education of Korean, on the one hand it was liquidation of Korean national spirit and other hand, it has the object to Japanizing Koreans through cramming Japanese language and its culture. During the Japanse occupation of Korea, the libraries had two roles, one was to press Korean and its culture and the other was to civilize Koreans for Japanizing. The purpose of this study is to examine the role of rural-mini libraries whether the former or the latter. From 1932 to The Chosun Governor- General Department (Chosun Chongdokboo) actively spread 'The Movement of Rural Development in Korea. At the same time there were many rural -mini libraries in Korean rural and fishing community. Under the colony of Japanese Empire, colony policy was itself very tough that Japanese Empire did their utmost ideas to win Korean culture over and Japanzing Korean with every possible pressures. Since rural-mini libraries were planned by the chosun Governor-General Department, however, were established by Korean themselves with the property of local education center( Hyanggyo). Therefore, rural-mini libraries were as facilities to promote rural economic development for providing Japanese with some materials which need to conduct a war, and to introduce local people to participate in civilizing activity themselves and farmers and fishermen were forced to group to be educated in Japanese language and its reading. Rural-mini libraries were, as it were, not as facilities for enlightening Korean peoples but as facilities for civilizing Koreans.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.439-453
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• 2015

This research is regarding Park Ki-Jong's Western-style court costume and emphasizes the shape and style peculiarities of Western-style court costumes in the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korean to Japan. Park Ki-Jong's frock coat was made during the period of the established law from 1900 to 1910. 1) The brand was ASADA TAILOR from Kyung-Sung. 2) The shape was long at the front and back, and it featured a picked lapel and double breast with six buttons to fasten and two buttons for decoration on the upper part. 3) The frock coat's materials were black wool fabric and black ridged silk. The lining's material was black plain silk and the sleeve's lining was white with blue striped silk. 4) The front separated the upper and bottom parts. The bottom was composed of a one-piece A-line skirt that continued from the front to back. The top of the back was separated by the princess line and the center-back seam was also separated with a vent. However, the center-back of the waistline was not separated, and it continued to one piece. The sleeve shape was a two-piece sleeve style with a phony vent and two wrapping buttons.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.