• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.73-89
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• 2004

The following is a summary of comparative study on costumes between 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and 『Chen-De-dang-an』 in Gun-Ryung 41st, 42nd and 43rd yew to find out costume situation actually worn by Emperor Gun-Ryung in Qing dynasty. In Gun-Ryung 41st year, Emperor's costumes showed a sign of royal tour robes. In 42nd year, a phase of mourning robe system came out and a plain side of costumes was shown owing to the mourning. In 43rd year, it showed costume situation worn by Emperor in peaceful year without any particular event. Velvet, material for traveling crown was used in a short time before and after the change of the season besides royal tour and this can be understood as a well-timed and reasonable selection of material. Eventhough robe material, Jik-kyung-Ji-chack-sa(a kind of silk) had been used for summer robes since Gun-Ryung 42nd you. Memorial costumes followed Emperor's court costume system I in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and court belt I or II as memorial suit belt was used for the memorial costume of Emperor Gun-Ryung and they properly applied of the costume system in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 for coats.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.70-81
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• 2005

This paper researches the system of official uniforms and characteristics of the system based on Ming-Shi(明史), Da-Ming-Hui-Dian(大明會典) and Hong-Wu-Li-Zhi(洪武禮制) in the emperor Hong-wu(洪武帝) of Ming dynasty(明). The system could be divided in to three terms, i.e., the early (initial), the middle and the end (last) terms. In the first(1368) & the third year of the emperor's reign (1370) the system of official uniforms was simple f9r his people not to be luxurious and for revived the system of official uniforms of the Han dynasty(漢) and annulled the system of the Yuan dynasty(元), be-cause the country was not stable yet. During the middle term of Hong-wu, the 14th (1381) to 16th (1383) year of his reign, people attained luxurious lives and developed a strong sense of rank as the country became more stable. As a result, the system became more complicated when the emperor used the costumes to represent political and social ranking. In the end of the emperor's age, the 23rd (1390) to 26th (1393), it reveals his strong intention to establish a system of costumes that separated the ruler from the ruled. He wanted to strengthen the power of Emperor for his little grandson, Jian-wen(建文帝), who would succeed to the throne and would have absolute power. These changes became fundamental to the Ming dynasty's costume system and the Ming dynasty kept them for long time.

• 중국학논총
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• 제27호
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• pp.147-166
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• 2009

New year pictures prevailed from 1660s to 1860. Especially, the reign period of Emperor Qianlong(r. 1736-1795) was the period of prosperity. The period of 1660s when new year pictures were started to be popular was the reign period of Emperor Kangxi(r. 1662-1722) was just started and corresponded to Emperor Kangxi's promulgation of "Sacred Edict." Chinese operas such as Peking opera were very popular among common people in the period from 1660s to 1860 when new year pictures prevailed. Qing emperors as foreign ruler chose the way of ruling their people by means of cultural influence in stead of military power. However their culture effort was not efficient toward the majority of illiterate people. New year pictures offered every information about the world through visual icons to the illiterate people at that time who perceived the world by means of seeing. They met the world through visual information offered by new year pictures. New year pictures were the stronger visual medium to spread and educate "Sacred Edict" to illiterate subjects than any other guide books published by elite officers.

• 영어어문교육
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.117-132
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• 2007

Playwright Eugene O'Neill's expressionistic text-based approach to The Emperor Jones, with an emphasis on fixity, was at odds with African American actor Charles Gilpin's improvisational performance technique, stressing rupture, spontaneity, and discontinuity. The contemporary avant-garde performance troupe The Wooster Group likewise produces subversive and interrogative forms of identity in performing the play, which challenge the normative approach to gender, race, and an imagined orientation. The historical foundation of subversion and destabilization laid by O'Neill and Gilpin were manifold in the Wooster Group's production of The Emperor Jones, and not only formed a backdrop to it but also played a central role in the group's representation of race and even gender on the stage. In this essay, I use O'Neill's play, The Emperor Jones, a crucial example of racialized fantasies of identification, to explore how the modernist stage through the performances of Gilpin and The Wooster Group constructed racialized subjects of both its performers and audiences. Gilpin and the Wooster Group's strategies each shared a similar complexity in the portrayal of black identity in performance. Offering an examination of how ideologies of race and gender overlap in The Emperor Jones, I hope to show how each performance signifies a range of subversions and differences simultaneously and sometimes oppositionally that needs to be explored both holistically and in detail to offer a fuller picture of these remarkable attempts. Through this approach, I examine Gilpin's creative adaptations of O'Neill's text and illuminate how it is that the Wooster Group's appropriative use of blackface in their performance has come to gain critical acceptance.

• 한국연극학
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• 제40호
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• pp.125-162
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• 2010

This is the study on the 'Theater State' in the Daehan Empire of the Emperor Gochung in the late 1900 with the theatrical concepts of cultural performance theory which has been useful for investigating historical, social, and cultural collective memories and their transformation mechanism in the society. The performance theory is based in the notion, '$Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$', by which the performance can contain vary performance forms. $Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$ is the notion which points up the certain process that can cause the perceptional emotion communication to the performers and audiences in the performance. The spectacle of a society is also understood and presupposed by the $Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$. Generally speaking, the spectacle has been used of explaining the visual cultural experiences in society. Fundamentally, spectacle had resulted from the latin 'spectaculum', which was used to designate theatrical representation in France. In the case of movie, spectacle was the grand show with showy technological attractions. The spectacle have been to show the political and socio-historical relationships in a society. But in my study, I want to start the premise that the cultural performance planed by the Emperor Gochung in the Daehan Empire has the attribute of 'theater state', which can awaken the certain collective emotion to connect the Emperor and his people in the Daehan Empire period of the Emperor Gochung of the late 1900. In addition to it, I search for the historical collective memories of the Daehan Empire. The government of the Daehan Empire was continuing with its efforts to enforce and recollect the imperial images and authority of the Emperor and his Empire to get the approval of the people and international society. The effect of spectacle consisting of theater state was the concrete effort to establish the collective memories of the Daehan Empire by remodelling and rebuilding the Seoul, the capital of the Empire and performing the national ceremony such as the korean pagent(Gae-Dung거둥) and parade to set the portrait of the Emperor(A-Jin어진), the geo-body of the Empire.

• 한국해양생명과학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.43-49
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• 2023

본 연구에서는 남극 로스해 연안에 서식하는 아델리펭귄(Pygoscelis adeliae)과 황제펭귄(Aptenodytes forsteri)의 분변 시료를 기반으로 펭귄 장내 미생물 메타지놈 연구를 수행하였다. Taxonomy 분석 결과, 아델리펭귄과 황제펭귄의 장내 미생물에는 주로 7개의 문(phylum), 18개의 과(family)가 존재하는 것으로 나타났다. 또한 미생물 다양성을 평가하기 위해 Alpha diversity 및 OTU abundance 분석을 수행한 결과, 전반적으로 아델리펭귄의 장내 미생물 다양성이 황제펭귄보다 높은 것을 확인하였고, PCoA를 기반으로 한 Beta diversity 분석을 통해 두 개체군 간 장내 미생물 군집에 차이가 존재함을 확인하였다. PICRUSt를 활용한 기능적인 차원의 KEGG pathway 분석을 통해서는 아델리펭귄과 황제펭귄 시료에서 nucleoside and nucleotide biosynthesis pathway가 가장 많이 존재하는 것을 확인하였다. 본 연구를 통해 남극 아델리펭귄과 황제펭귄의 장내미생물 구성과 다양성을 비교분석 할 수 있었다. 본 연구 결과는 향후 펭귄의 먹이 섭식 관련 연구에 활용될 수 있으며, 더 나아가 다양한 남극 생물의 장내미생물 메타지놈 분석에 대한 기초가 될 수 있을 것이다.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2013

This paper researches the system of the official's gongbok(公服) during the reign of emperor Hongwu(洪武帝) in the Ming dynasty, and it is based on DaMingLing(大明令), DaMingJili(大明集禮), HongwuLizhi(洪武禮制), ZhusiZhizhang(諸司職掌), DaMingHuidian(大明 會典), MingTaizuShilu(明太祖實錄), and MingShi(明史). Official's gongbok is consisted of clothes, belt(帶), bokdu, scepter(笏), and black shoes. The system of official's gongbok wa schanged through three stages. First, the system of the Yuan dynasty(元代) was maintained in January, 1368, which was the first year of the emperor's reign. Second, the gongbok system was established in November, 1368. The system stated that the clothes had to be red-colored(赤色) regardless of rank and the belt was divided into okdai(玉帶), seodai (犀帶), gumdai(金帶), and kwangsoeundai (光素銀帶). Third, the system was revised in June, 1391, which was the 24th year of his reign. According to the rank, the clothing colors were divided into scarlet(緋色), blue(靑色), and green(綠色). The belt was divided into okdai, seodai, gumdai, and ogaggai(烏角帶). 'Hongmu26nyunjung(洪武26年定)' recorded on the Wanli's edition(萬曆本) of the DaMingHuidian has the meaning of ZhusiZhizhang regulations.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.233-252
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• 2021

The Gwan ceremony (冠禮) is a coming-of-age ceremony that takes place through traditional Gwan (冠: the hat) and clothes in the traditional era. The rite is performed by wearing hats and clothes three consecutive times (三加禮). It was an important rite which meant that underage children were formally recognized as members of society. This study examined costumes of people who participated in various coming-of-age ceremony rites in the Ming dynasty imperial court of China. For the research data, this study mainly used authentic chronicles (正史), codes of law and books on Ming dynasty rituals. This study examined the costumes used in the coming-of-age ceremony for the emperor, Prince Imperial, Emperor's eldest grandson, and emperor's sons. The results of this study were divided into an analysis of the document structure, institutional changes by time, characteristics of costumes, and characteristics of the rite. Of particular note in their ceremony, the emperor is presupposed to be a 'human already full-equipped with virtue', which means that the costume is worn only once. It is a case in which the emperor's absolute identity is revealed through the rite and costume.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제34호
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• pp.133-172
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• 2017

만수성절은 본래 중국 황제의 생일을 일컫는 용어이다. 조선의 경우 만수성절의 칭호를 쓸 수 없었지만, 개항 이후 자주적인 대외관계를 펼치기 위해 미국공사관을 설치한 해인 1888년부터 고종의 생일을 만수성절이라 칭했던 용례가 나타난다. 이어 1895년 무렵에는 만수성절이란 호칭이 더욱 널리 사용되었고, 고종이 황제로 즉위하면서 이를 기념한 경축 행사가 활성화 되었다. 대한제국 시기 만수성절 축하 행사는 각계각층에서 일어났다. 국내 관원, 외국인, 학생, 종교인, 언론인, 상인, 민간단체, 전국의 개항장 등 다양한 지역과 계층에서 고종황제 탄신을 기념하여, 축하 계층이 두텁고 넓었다. 즉 계층 지역 인종에서 보편성 전국성 국제성을 띠었다는 점에서 차별화 되었다. 이러한 특성으로 인해 축하 문화 역시 다양하게 전개되었으며, 이들에게 황실후원금도 지급되었다. 당시 만수성절 경축은 황제에 대한 존경심과 애국심으로 확장되었기 때문에, 황제권 강화와 내국인의 민심 결속에 크게 기여하였고, 그런 모습이 국내에 상주하는 각국 외교관과 취재기자를 통해 세계에 보도되어, 국권 신장에도 영향을 끼쳤다. 그러나 러일전쟁 발발 이후 일제가 대한제국의 황실 재정을 장악하고 황권을 위축시키면서 만수성절 행사도 축소된다. 통감부 시기에는 황실지원금의 단절, 일제의 단속, 고종황제 강제 퇴위로 인해 만수성절 기념 행사가 거의 사라졌고, 궁중에서만 친일관료와 일본인을 중심으로 형식적인 경축연만 설행되었다. 고종황제의 권력 실축과 대한제국의 멸망은 한 몸이었고, 만수성절 경축도 동반 추락하였다. 그런 가운데 궁중 전통 연향 문화는 해체되고, 일제에 의한 공연 환경의 변화로 인해 대한제국 최고의 공연자들은 일개 유희물로 전락해 버렸다. 비록 황제를 향한 존경심과 애국심의 표출 창구였던 만수성절은 굴절되었지만 황실 자본력에 힘입어 구축된 행사 과정에서 창출된 문화적 성취들은 한국근현대문화사가 전개되는 내적 동력으로 작동하였다는 점에서 의미가 있다고 본다.