• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.4 s.10
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• pp.25-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze formative features of women shoes, to develop distinctive shoes design for coming fashion trend. the methods of this study are documentary research and case study. In the theoretical study, this study has catched the origin of shoes and the changes of shoes design of each era. for the study of formative features of women shoes in 1990's, 215 kinds of pictures have been selected from in professional shoes magazines. The results of analysis are as follow. Woman shoes categorized the design factors into shape, material, decoration. Reformational shape that reconstructs old shape of shoes by comtemporary aesthetic, shape in that dual images were mixed, re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstruction of structures and shapes of shoes. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Avant-garde was appeared by using naturalistic material to represent natural beauty or using merry, daring material. Post-modern tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.840-850
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• 2006

This thesis that is written by inquiring the shoes of 1990's, is written in order to propose the method of analyzing the changes of shoes design systematically. The picture to be gathered was a content analysis low at ARS and Accessory Collegioni since though the research method took shoes to $1990{\sim}1999$. I categorized the design factors into shape, material, color, decoration. by using those category, the result of analysis of design character. In 1,990's, boots, pumps and straps were the most popular in upper, point and rounded cuban and french were the most popular in toe, leather was the most popular in materiel, suede in F/W and patent in S/S. Black was the most popular color, brown in F/W and white/beige in S/S were the second. Re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstructions of structures and shapes of shoes, shape that was expanded to other genre were appeared in character of design factor. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Recognition of shoes color was expanded by using unique colorations and abstract, fresh figure colors. Post-modem tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.113-120
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• 2013

This study aims to determine adolescents' emotional response and preferences for varying interior designs of learning spaces available at community facilities in apartment across Seoul. In particular, the subjects have been fragmented by gender and age for comparative analysis of emotional responses across different demographics of adolescents. A survey on the preferred designs of learning spaces in community facilities revealed that 'elegant,' 'cheerful,' and 'temperate' are the three main emotional words selected for image tool development. Emotional assessment verified the validity of these terms. Between the two genders, adolescent males preferred 'temperate' images more while adolescent females preferred 'cheerful.' In terms of the design of learning space, adolescent females deemed the interior atmosphere and area space to be the most important factors, while adolescent males pointed to the color of furniture and lighting to be the most important. Such results imply that there is a clear difference of emotional response between adolescent males and females. The results also imply that different atmospheres and design priorities must be considered when designing gender-specific spaces.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.19-30
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• 2002

This is the research of Abject Art which was originated aesthetically in Abjection Theory of Julia Kristeva, a french psycho-analyst who argued liberational discussions about feminine identity against patricentric ideology which had fastened existing beautiful and elegant oedipal-feminine image and femininity as the secondary sex or the other's sex. and which became known by the planning display at whitney Museum of American in 1993. In Julia Kristeva's Abjection Theory which was written in her book(Power of Horror : An Assay on Abjection, 1992), she named pre-oedipal stage in which there is no sexual difference and has the same significance to both sexes instead of the oedipal stage which is becoming male-supreme reality as the semiotic and reinterpreted that an infant disregards feminine body--mother's body (Julia Kristeva, named it as Chora) as the love and the pain which carries her baby in herself and creates the baby which belonged to herself--which belongs to the semiotic to enter the symbolic smoothly. So the Abjection art is partly consist of some works which express the concertion of the boundary rebated with infant Identity which is not yet the other perfectly nor the subject perfectly, and of some works called Excretory Arts which express the excretion and vomiting which is the original experience of the abject. I expect that this research can be the chance of breaking from the fastened identity which was granted on female and feminine costume in this masculine-view centric society and creating the new position of costume and dress in the field of art by analyzing the costumes especially among these works.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.957-969
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• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.821-829
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• 2010

The men's costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men's wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men's vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women's wear. The men's vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume's image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men's wear as women's wear. I made five women's costumes applying design characteristics of the men's vest of the eighteenth century. These five women's costumes have decorative aspect of men's vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men's costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women's costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men's vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.137-156
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People's Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.43-59
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• 1996

The objective of this research is to investigate the potential of relational matching in one of the fundamental photogrammetric processes, that is initial approximation problem. The automatic relative orientation procedures of aerial stereopairs have been investigated. The fact that the existing methods suffer from approximations, distortions (geometric and radiometric), occlusions, and breaklines is the motivation to investigate relational matching which appears to be a much more general solution. An elegant way of solving the initial approximation problem by using distinct(special) relationship from relational description is suggested and experimented. As for evaluation function, the cost function was implemented. The detection of erroneous matching is incorporated as a part of proposed relational matching scheme. Experiments with real urban area images where large numbers of repetitive patterns, breaklines, and occluded areas are present prove the feasibility of implementation of the proposed relational matching scheme. The investigation of relational matching in the domain of image matching problem provides advantages and disadvantages over the existing image matching methods and shows the future area of development and implementation of relational matching in the field of digital photogrammetry.