• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.126-139
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• 2009

The following study from the perspective that the identity of a brand is determined by the creative work of the designer, will review the design identity of fashion house, which have maintained a basic concept of couture house until recently. For this purpose, first, the concepts of fashion house and identity could be examined, and then the design identity of both the past couture designer and the present house designer could be comparatively analyzed. This study focused on John Galliano of Dior, and was carried out under the method of document study and case study. Based on this, the analytic results of the design identity of fashion houses are as follows. The design identity of fashion house, which has its origins in the past couture house, appears from the house characteristics, design characteristics and the design image. The original design identity of Dior House seems to be feminism and elegant extravagance, which naturally models the body line of women into diverse lines. The new design identity of Dior House by Galliano, while reflecting wit and fantasy, at the same time is expressed as sexy and romantic elegance which attempts to express the beauty of modern women. The pursue of chic elegance, which is the characteristic of early Dior design, have changed into avant garde and unique designs with tendencies of multi-culturalism due to the most recent house designers. Finally, Dior house design has successfully maintained the master of handcrafted quality based on craftsmanship, the history from the house archive, and the modern trends appropriately added by the creativity of Galliano.

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

The purpose of this study were to identity face satisfaction and make-up behavior according to their lifestyles of middle aged women. The subjects were 350 women of 40 - 59 years old. The results of this study were as follow: 1. Lifestyle factors of middle aged women were self confidence, leisure activities, interests in appearance, economical efficiency, conservatism, and value-orientation. They were classified into four types of dignified & appearance interested group, passive stagnated group, unconfident & economic group, and value-oriented & leisure group according to their lifestyles. 2. They were satisfied with their eyes, lips, and eyebrows, but not satisfied with face tone, face shape, and skin texture. Total face satisfaction level was over average. The face satisfaction level of dignified & appearance interested group and value-oriented & leisure group were higher than other groups, but that of passive stagnated group was the lowest. 3. They pursued internal beauty and natural makeup, and did not follow trendy colors. Dignified & appearance interested group pursued characteristic, elegant, changeable, and various make-up colors, but value-oriented & leisure group pursued more various, changeable, and trendy colors. They did not prefer trendy products because of high price. Dignified & appearance interested group and unconfident & economic group were highly price-oriented, but value-oriented & leisure group purchased trendy products. 4. Dignified & appearance interested group included working women with not much income, but passive stagnated group included low-educated and non-working women. Unconfident & economic group included low-educated non-working women with not much income, but value-oriented & leisure group included highly-educated working women with high income.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.10-21
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• 2018

Kushan dynasty was located in the middle of Silkroad, from the 1st century BC to the second century AD, where it negotiated with various races. Therefore, the culture of the Kushan has multi cultural elements. The purpose of this study is to understand the life of the ancient Silkroad by accessing this characteristic culture of the Kushan through costume analysis. And the results of this study will be used as a basic data for studying the relationship between Korean ancient costumes and Silkroad costume type. As a research method, literature survey and artifacts analysis were performed in parallel. The results of this study are as follows: The basic type of the Kushan costume was a typical nomadic ethnic type with a long tunic and trousers. Tunic was fastened with a belt and straps at the waist, and the lower part of the belt was wider like a skirt. The tunic was divided into two types: open front and closed front. Because Kushan was originally a nomadic people who lived in Central Asia, the nomadic elements of Central Asia remained unchanged in the early costumes of the Kushan, but over time the details of the costumes changed according to the surrounding political situation. When Kushan negotiated with Parthia, the parthian coat was worn by the influence of them. After occupying Greco Bactria, accepting the Greek culture of Bactria, Kushan's costume was supplemented by the external costume element of drapery, which changed the style of the nomadic costume into a elegant style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.89-103
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of accordion pleats shown in 10/11 S/S London, Paris, New York collection and evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test. The results of the study are as follows: Accordion pleats was first introduced by Marriano Fortuny. He published delphos dress by creating silk pleats manufacturing technique and it was recognized as the best pleats work. Since then, pleats with synthetic fiber characteristics were used by many fashion designers. Accordion pleats were used in various items including one-peice, skirt and pants in collection of 2010 and 2011. The design of accordion pleats skirt used different width of pleats, length of the skirt and materials. The visual image by the width of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : dearness, attractiveness and elegance. In these factors, dearness factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion p1eats skirt is most attractive and dear when the width of pleats is the shortest, 1/8", and the width of 4/8" and 5/8" follows. The accordion pleats skirt is most attractive and dear when the length of skirt is similar to that of mini-skirt, and the skirt was estimated to be elegant as the skirt gets longer. When the length of skirt is in between, the skirts were estimated to be ambiguous in all visual images. The interaction effect of visual image according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt was seemed to have significant differences by factors, and the main effect had great differences in all factors.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.95-112
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• 2006

This study examines the Korean traditional and characteristic coloring through the color of Korean traditional embroidery. This research gives the chance to establish the cultural identity of Korea and presents the aesthetic standard of color images. Also, practical use of Korean traditional colors through this study provide opportunities which develope cultural merchandise in the world. were chosen as the references to analyzed the Korean traditional colors through gungsu: court embroidery, buddhist embroidery, everyday embroidery and clothing embroidery. Because this book published in commemoration of '20th General Conference and 21th General Assembly of ICOM' in 2004, which presented excellence of Asian culture. The color of these works were divided by 'Pantone Solid Color Chips' which organized by CMYK color system and categorized by Obangsaek. 'Gungsu' had vivid and splendid color sense which used strong and bright colors and 'buddhist embroidery' had mild and mysterious feelings which used low saturation.'Everyday embroidery' used the red color group frequently and 'clothing embroidery' had brighter colors comparing to other embroidery groups. The 'Chung(blue)' group had diverse color tone rather than one-tone color. This means that Koreans prefer the 'Chung' and used it regularly, also this color symbolized the racial characteristics. Even though 'Whang(yellow)' was prohibited because the color for emperor, in the case of embroidery, there were a variety of yellow colors from 'gold' to pale yellow and grayish yellow. The arrangement of colors in 'gungsu', tone on tone, complementary and bicolore coloring was used mostly which presented a strong and elegant color sense. On the other side, 'buddhist embroidery' used tonal coloring which gave gentle and noble feeling. 'Everyday embroidery' presented separation and accented coloring which was the example of common people's humor and originality. In the case of 'clothing embroidery', there was dominant lightness, separation, tone on tone and camaieu coloring which added gorgeousness in Korean traditional clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• 방송공학회논문지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.304-312
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• 2010

본 논문은 T-DMB 자동재난경보방송표준을 위한 재난 메시지 및 재난 메시지 분할 방법 설계에 대하여 기술한다. 재난 메시지는 T-DMB 수신기에 전달되는 메시지로서 재난경보를 위한 핵심적인 내용으로 구성한다. 이러한 내용 중 정형화가 가능한 내용은 코드화된 필드로 표현하고 비정형 내용은 단문으로 표현한다. 논문에서는 각 필드 설계를 위한 분석과 각 필드의 의미와 문법에 대해 기술한다. 다음으로 재난 메시지의 분할 방법에 대해 설명한다. 본 논문에서 정의한 재난 메시지의 크기는 대부분 FIG 최대 크기를 넘어 분할 계층이 필요하다. 하지만 현 지상파 DMB 송수신 정합 표준은 FIDC에서의 메시지 분할 방법을 정의하고 있지 않다. 이를 해결하기 위해 본 논문에서는 기존의 FIG type 0 메시지 분할 방법과 패킷모드 분할 전송 방법에 비해 잡음이 많은 환경에서도 유연하고 신속한 수신을 보장하는 방법을 제안하였다. 이러한 연구 결과 앞으로 시범 서비스를 통하여 추가적으로 개선해야 할 보완점을 파악하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.763-780
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to analyze Vionnet´s geometric features, which can be regarded as the key formative beauty among the external characteristics of her works. and to thereby establish the theory that her works emitted a time-transcending life force because they were patterns designed based on a geometrical frame of mind. To prove such argument, studies to understand the basic geometrical aspects appearing in her works will be made by taking a look at the general features of geometry, viewing Vionnet´s philosophy for designing, and examining the geometric cutting methods. The period covered in this paper will center mainly on dresses Vionnet made from her very active days in the fashion sector, 1919. till when she retired from the fashion industry, around 1939. What's outstanding about Vionnet´s geometric principle expressed in her works is the unique cutting method that acknowledges the silhouette of the human body as a cubic or three-dimensions concept, through insight of the human body, the mechanics of the materials, and geometry. Vionnet introduced a simple and elegant design by combining geometric figure cuts, such as rectan히es. quadrants, and triangles. Moreover, she created a new sewing structure that plans everything about the materials to the tiniest detail, resulting in producing a softer style With this, Vionnet showed the geometrical correlation can bring about harmony and the beauty of ideal proportion, forming the source of eternal beauty. As discussed so fu, the geometrical characteristics appearing in Vionnet´s works are marked such as spirals, zig-zag lines, asymmetries. panels, gradation, golden proportion, and the mobius-band.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion characteristics of fashion magazine cover by comparing and analyzing the formative characteristics of fashion, visual design characteristics and illustration vocabulary on the cover of 3 fashion magazines. The data analysis criteria consisted of the formative elements of fashion (fashion design element, fashion coordination element) and visual design element (color, illustration lexical layout, model photograph type). Data analysis methods were statistical analysis, stepwise lexical analysis, and content analysis. The results of the study are as follows. First, the formative characteristics of fashion on the cover of fashion magazines show that ELLE is a feminine and elegant characteristics, VOGUE is a modern, chic and mannish characteristics, and W is avant-garde and neutral characteristics. Second, visual design characteristics on the cover of fashion magazines, ELLE and VOGUE use modern and simple modern sensibility by using monotonous background color and background color number, and W showed original image characteristic by using various colors. Third, as a result of the illustration lexical analysis on the cover of fashion magazines, 4 core keywords of trend, star, event, and life appeared in 3 magazines in common. Elle differentiates by innovation, Vogue by discrimination, W by reconstruction.

• 한국시조학회지:시조학논총
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• 제43권
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• pp.5-39
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• 2015

시조는 조선 후기 한국의 문학작품 중 단형시가를 대표하는 문학 장르이다. 시조의 기본형식은 3장 6구 12음보의 형식을 갖춘 평시조로, 평시조 한 수의 노랫말은 45자 내외의 길이를 지닌다. 그러나 시조의 한 종류인 사설시조는 노랫말의 글자 수가 많이 늘어나 100여 자를 넘는 작품도 있다. 이 같은 사설시조 중에는 한문 어휘를 많이 사용하고, 심지어는 한시에서 몇몇 구절을 차용한 '엄숙하고 우아한 느낌'의 작품도 있으나, '외설스럽고 노골적인 내용'의 작품도 많이 있다. 문학작품인 시조는 가곡과 시조창이라는 성악곡의 노랫말로 사용되는데, 동일한 시조시가 가곡과 시조의 노랫말로 활용되는 경우도 많이 있다. 그러나 성악곡인 가곡 중에서 사설시조를 노랫말로 사용하는 악곡 중에는 '외설스러운 작품'은 거의 부르지 않고, '엄숙한 느낌'의 노래들이 주를 이루고 있다. 이 논문은 현재 전승되는 가곡 중에서 사설시조를 노래하는 악곡은 대부분 '엄숙하고 우아한 느낌'의 노랫말을 사용한다는 사실을 확인하고, '외설적이고 노골적인 내용'의 사설시조를 가곡에서 노랫말로 사용하기 어려운 이유를 살펴보았다. 그러한 이유 중 가장 중요한 것은 불규칙하게 늘어나는 노랫말과, 그에 따르는 반주 때문으로 보인다. 가곡은 악보에 기록되어 전하는 정해진 선율을 다수의 악기가 반주 한다. 따라서 사전에 선택된 노랫말에 따라 일정하게 만들어진 노래선율과 반주선율에 의하지 않으면 연주가 사실상 불가능하다. 또한 문학작품의 감상은 개인적인 독서활동을 통하여 사적으로 이루어지지만, 가곡은 다수의 인원이 열린 공간에서 공개적인 연주를 통하여 연행하는 것이다. 특히 조선 후기의 사회적 제도와 관습 속에서 신분이 다른 남녀가 함께 모여 외설스럽고 노골적인 노래를 부르기는 어려웠을 것이다. 이 글을 통하여 사설시조의 문학적 특성으로 일컬어지던 서민적이고 통속적인 성격은 가곡으로 불려진 사설시조에서는 찾아보기 어렵다는 점을 확인하였다.