• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1121-1127
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• 2009

This study presents an eco-friendly and one-step finishing method for modifying fiber property that reduces fiber damage in wool/polyester blend fabrics. Lipase from aspergillus oryzae is used in this experiment. The enzymatic treatment condition is optimized by measuring the relative activity of lipase depending on pH level, temperature, concentration of lipase, and treatment time. The concentration of $CaCl_2$as an activator is determined by the characteristics including whiteness, water contact angle (WCA), and dyeing property. The modified properties of lipase treated fabrics are tested for pill resistance and surface morphology. The results are described as follows: the optimum condions for lipase treatment constitute a pH level of 8.0, treatment temperature of 40$^{\circ}$$_C$, concentration of lipase at 100% (o.w.f), and a treatment time of 90 minutes. $CaCl_2$helps in raising lipase activation, and the optimum concentration is 50mM. The whiteness, wet ability, and pill resistance of lipase treated fabrics improves as compared to the control. The dyeing property of lipase treated fabrics improved by 53.5% after using the one-bath dyeing method. This means that lipase treatment can save time and cost during the dyeing process since lipase treatment modifies wool and polyester fibers. The surface of lipase treated wool fibers do not exhibit any change, however voids and cracks manifest on the surface of lipase treated polyester fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1205-1219
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• 2010

This study analyzes the conditions and products of internet shopping malls that sell natural dyeing products. In this study, 98 natural dyeing internet shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. The locations of the internet shopping malls were Gyeonggi-do, Seoul, Jeollanam-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Gwang-ju (city), Daegu (city), Busan (city), Gyeongsangnam-do, and Jeju-do. The most frequent dyes of the natural dyeing products were loess, followed by charcoal, indigo, and persimmon. Indigo was most frequently used in Seoul, with loess and charcoal most frequent in Gyeonggi-do. Persimmon, indigo, loess, and charcoal were mainly used in Jeollanam-do, with persimmon and loess in the Gyeongsangbuk-do, and persimmon in Jeju-do. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothing, interior decoration products, and bedding. The most frequent products were bedclothes, followed by scarves, female shirts, blouses, pillows, female jackets, and vests. Regarding the price of products, 150,000-200,000 won was the highest for the Saenghwal Hanbok, with 10,000-30,000 won for underwear, 30,000-60,000 won for accessories, and 100,000-150,000 won for bedding. Concerning product information, 58.2% of internet shopping malls offer the product size and almost half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product. Based on the research results, the problems of the conditions and products of natural dyeing internet shopping mall were derived. The results show that the natural dyes of internet shopping malls lacked regional symbolism, the products were not specialized, and product information was not fully offered to consumers. To solve these problems, the strategies for marketing the promotion of the natural dyeing internet shopping mall were, ‘Using natural dyes from local resources’, ‘Market oriented and specialized item design’, and ‘Offer right product information’.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.21-32
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to establish the idea of sustainable slow design by analyzing literatures and preceding cases, based on the external elements of a design including forms, the methods of expression, materials and colors. This study reviewed the previous literature of books and pictures related to the research for case studies and content analysis. fashion books, magazines, and web-sites published from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed for this research. The sustainable slow design trends in fashion can be summarized as follow. The first is a timeless style which has sustain ability in design independently of the versatile fads and relies on functionality, serving the purpose of design. One of the examples is both clothes designed by Burberry and suits by Chanel. The second is a hand-touch style which the more time for outputs can be positively tolerated, in favor on eco-friendly design through the techniques of manual arts. The third is a renewable design which the combined values of design with reuse and renewal result in recreation of past ecology as shown in the technique of designs by mix & match. The forth is a transformable design which features the multi-purpose and multi-forms, eventually extending the lift cycle of products. As a result of analysis of the four designs above, it can be inferred that the representation of past styles, the mixture of old design with new design, the appropriate combination of conventional fabrics with advanced ones, the ecological trends of sports look was emerging.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.75-85
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine ways to vitalize cause related marketing (CRM) by proposing character T-shirts The campaign will employ Neo-Pop art, a genre popular with both companies and consumers. Study results are as follows: First, campaign T-shirts on the issue of human alienation resulting from digitalization can be utilized to generate financial profit that can be returned to society. This can lead to the acts of exchange for profit generation, public image improvemen of companies, and enhancement of their external status. As for the non-financial aspect, the campaign could lead to increased awareness of social issues and present opportunities to take actions of improvement. Second, the financial objective of character T-shirts dealing with environmental issue of sustainability involves brand distribution network support and revitalization of promotion such as shopping basket of love and eco-friendly store matching program for eco-friendly campaign. As for the non-financial aspect, it can help raise consumers' awareness of cause related activities such as crowd funding and fundraising and prepare opportunities of direct participation. Third, the financial objective of character T-shirts dealing with natural disaster relief activities on the global level involves brand recognition level increase and enhancement of positive association of companies through emergency relief and articles support as a result of drastic increases in casualties from nature disasters. As for the non-financial aspect, it can induce people's participation in relief activities and lead to the establishment of crisis response procedures. The information on the development of pop-art character T-shirts proposed in this study is expected to be used as basic information on cause marketing of fashion companies in the future, while providing inspiration to related fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.993-1008
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• 2011

Traditional culture could be a wonderful source of inspiration for creative design. Tteoksal, the stamps used for making decorative patterns on traditional rice-cakes, have been used and passed on to generations to show the emotions of our ancestors. Numerous traditional patterns found in Tteoksal can be used to better understand and transmit tradition in modern ways. The purpose of this study was to develop fashion cultural products with a modern sensibility by understanding the origin, types and characteristics of Tteoksal and its patterns. The method of this study was through considering the proceeding studies and the references published by a specialist and museums having some information about further knowledge on Tteoksal. In line with the aforementioned study, neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouches were developed as fashion goods. Among the Tteoksal's patterns selected were lotus, bats, 樂 letters and complex patterns. Using a computer graphic software program such as Adobe Illustrator CS5, archetypes of patterns were traced as vector graphics, and two design motives were developed in every pattern. The patterns were developed into two types: one was a basic pattern faithful to a basic motive pattern, and the other was a varied type that was changed and applied. The fashion products were developed as two styles for basic and varied patterns for neckties, eco-friendly bags and pouch items. Twelve products were made for each pattern, which totals 48 unique products. In conclusion, the study could be a critical step to better understand the traditional culture and its influence to the patterns applied to modern fashion design.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.73-86
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• 2024

Addressing the environmental impact of textile waste, this study explores upcycling as a sustainable fashion solution, particularly focusing on the upcycling of discarded fishing nets, which are a significant source of marine pollution. In 2018, South Korea alone produced 193.3 tons of clothing waste, refelcting a global trend, where textile waste exceedsed 92 million tons. The research methodology involved a literature review and case studies on upcycled fashion, focusing on discarded fishing nets. Designs for three outfits targeting women in their twenties were proposed and a survey was carried out to assess the their perception of upcycled fashion and the design's appeal and practicality. Under the theme, 'Marine Spirit,' the study aimed to raise awareness of marine pollution, drawing inspiration from the ocean's vibrant life. The designs diverge from the monotonous 'Casual Glam' trend, and incorporate vivid colors and asymmetrical structures for visual appeal. The practical application of fishing nets varied across the pieces, serving as fillers in transparent PVC padded coats and decorative elements in skirts and puff dresses. The distinctive properties of fishing nets provide a unique aesthetic, which resonated well with the target audience. Despite challenges in adopting eco-friendly dyeing methods and assessing mass production feasibility, the study underscores the need for continued research in sustainable textile processing. The study reaffirms the importance of sustainable fashion, highlighting the creative potential of fishing nets as a material.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.260-266
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• 2022

Cellulose fiber is a material used in various fields. It is the most used type of fiber because of its excellent hygroscopicity and dyeability. Recently, as natural fiber materials have been highlighted due to the influence of eco-friendliness and well-being, bamboo fiber has become a commonly used eco-friendly fiber. Cellulose fibers are part of the -OH hydroxyl group, which means they are more chemically reactive than synthetic fibers. In this study, the cationization properties of bamboo-cotton blended fabrics cationized using CHPTAC (3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride) in the PDC (padding-drying-curing) method were investigated. Various characteristics according to cationization were studied through elemental analysis, FT-IR (fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy) analysis, X-ray diffraction analysis, TGA (thermogravimetric) analysis, and SEM (scanning electron microscope) analysis. The nitrogen content of the cationized bamboo-cotton blended fabric increased with an increase in the concentration of the cationizing agent CHPTAC, and it was seen to be highly bound to cellulose molecules. As a result of the FT-IR analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics were seen to be typical cellulose. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As a result of the X-ray diffraction analysis, both 100% pure cotton fabrics and CHPTAC-0 and CHPTAC-150 fabrics showed typical cellulose I structures. As the cationization progressed, micropores appeared on the surface of the blended fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.625-645
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• 2023

This study examined newspaper articles from 2012 to the first quarter of 2021 to explore how interest in and response to veganism have evolved in the fashion and beauty industries over the past decade. By analyzing keywords and word correlations, we discovered a steady increase in veganism-related articles in both English- and Korean-language newspapers published in Korea, especially since 2019. Since 2012, consumer interest in vegan fashion materials has grown, with fashion and beauty emerging in 2018 as significant vegan-related keywords. As a result, brands have adopted vegan certification systems and introduced vegan product lines, and new vegan brands have emerged. Since 2020, companies have been promoting environmental, social, and governance (ESG) management practices and working toward eco-management that reflects vegan trends in all areas, such as cruelty-free product/packaging materials, brands, policies, and services. It is also notable that fashion/beauty consumers have been more actively starting to adopt eco-friendly lifestyles and participate in vegan-related movements since that time. Our findings offer important insights into the evolution of veganism in Korea and can help researchers and industry practitioners to develop future business strategies in the vegan fashion and beauty industries.