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Natural Dyeing Absorption Properties of Chitosan and Nano Silver Composite Non-Woven Fabrics -Focus on Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn- (키토산/나노실버 복합섬유 혼방 부직포의 천연염색 염착특성 -감국을 중심으로-)

  • Hong, Byung-Suk;Chu, Young-Ju;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.5
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    • pp.775-783
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    • 2010
  • This study examines the dyeability, light fastness, washing fastness, and the antibacterial activity of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics dyed with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn. The results show that an increase in the chitosan and nano silver percentage resulted in an increase in the $a^*$ values and $b^*$ values; however, the $L^*$ values decreased in the undyed condition. ${\Delta}E$ values of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics were higher than cotton 100% non-woven fabrics in the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, and mordant treatments influenced the chrominance change. In the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, an increase in the percentage of chitosan and nano silver resulted in an increase of the K/S values. The dyeability of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics increased by mordant treatments. The light fastness and washing fastness of the mordanted non-woven fabrics were better than the non-mordanted. For the antibacterial activity, the bacterial reduction rate of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics was 99.9% to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

Combination Dyeing of Juniperus Chinensis and Terminalia Chebula Retzius (향나무와 가자열매의 혼합 염색)

  • Sa, A-Na;Choi, Hyo Jin;Lee, Jung Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.38 no.3
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    • pp.415-426
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    • 2014
  • This study investigated the color change, enhancement of dye uptake, washing fastness, and light fastness of cotton and silk when dyed with Juniperus chinensis and Terminalia chebula (combination dyeing) using various methods. The dyeing methods were 1) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract and Terminalia chebula Retzius extract sequentially (J-T), 2) dyeing Terminalia chebula Retzius extract and Juniperus chinensis extract sequentially (T-J), 3) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract and Terminalia chebula Retzius extract simultaneously (J+T), and 4) dyeing Juniperus chinensis extract 4 times repeatedly and followed by a dyeing Terminalia chebula Retzius extract in sequence. In terms of increased dyeing uptake, combination dyeing (dyeing 2 times like method 1, 2, 3) had the same impact as the repeated dyeing (method 4). The color of J, T combination dyeing showed wide range of mixed YR series, Y series resulting from Terminalia chebula Retzius, and R series resulting from Juniperus chinensis. In cotton, J-T dyeing method showed superior enhancement of dye uptake, and T-J method in silk. In both of the cases, Y series color from Terminalia chebula Retzius extract was mainly shown (Y series color was superior to R series color after dyeing). Therefore, it is recommended for cotton to implement T-J method and for silk to implement J-T method in order to enhance both dyeing uptake and emphasize the color of R series. The K/S value of combination dyed fabrics was decreased by increasing washing time; however, the K/S value of combination dyed fabrics was increased by increasing UV irradiation time. But after repeated washing and longer UV irradiation, ${\Delta}E$ value of combination dyed fabric became smaller compared to fabric dyed with Juniperus chinensis only. Thus, it was found that after J, T combination dyeing, fabric became less prone to fading by washing and UV than after Juniperus chinensis single dyeing was done.

A Study on the Utilization of Korea Traditional Patterns for Fashion Cultural Products (패션문화상품의 한국전통문양 활용 실태에 관한 연구)

  • Hyun, Seon-Hee;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.8
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    • pp.1252-1261
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to grasp the utilization of traditional Korean Patterns used for fashion cultural products. To achieve this purpose, this study examined the range of fashion cultural products through literature review, previous researches, and market surveys and analyzed the situation of fashion cultural products and the kinds, expression methods, expression techniques, and repeat styles of utilized patterns. The analysis results are as follows. First, in the use of traditional pattern, the most frequently-used fashion cultural products were small and inexpensive accessories, followed by fashion apparel, miscellaneous goods, and living cultural goods. Second, the most frequently-used traditional patterns were plant patterns, especially flower patterns. The next frequently-used ones were mixed patterns, especially in the mixture of flower and letter patterns, and $cloisonn\'{e}$ and flower patterns. The next frequently-used traditional patterns were animal patterns(especially butterfly patterns), followed by geometric patterns, lucky omen patterns, and letter patterns. In the expression methods of used patterns, most products except handicrafts preferred simplified patterns to real patterns. Finally, in the expression techniques of traditional patterns, the most frequently used technique was traditional embroidery, followed by the use of weaving fabrics such as fine gauze and brocade which are used for Hanbok. Also, transfer dyeing which is one of printing techniques, DTP(digital textiles printing), a mixed technique which adds embroidery to weaving fabrics, hand-painting, and a gilt technique were used. The results of this study suggest that most fashion cultural products except few designers' works attached weight to some specified patterns and expression techniques regardless of the characteristics of products since there is little understanding of a variety of patterns and are few researches and development on expression techniques.

Effect of Interactivity, Telepresence, and Flow toward Future Behavior Intention on Internet Shopping Malls (인터넷 의류 쇼핑몰의 상호작용성, 원격실재감, 플로우가 미래행동의도에 미치는 영향)

  • Jang, Se-Yoon;Yang, Hee-Soon;Lee, Yu-Ri
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.9
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    • pp.1409-1418
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    • 2009
  • This study investigates the relationship among interactivity, telepresence, flow, and future behavior intention in internet shopping. Respondents were female consumers age 20 to 30. These consumers are regarded to have experience in internet shopping. 500 samples were used in this research. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, ANOVA, and multiple regression analysis were used for this study. As the result, interactivity, telepresence, and flow affect future behavior intention. Flow is the most influential variable affecting the future behavior intention. It implies that hedonic shopping experience (aroused by flow) can increase the future behavior intention of consumers. Consumers can operate and change the product image with convenience by encouraging interactivity between the internet fashion shopping mall and consumers. Through the technology, the experience 'flow' of consumers can provide a sense of telepresence as if they were shopping in a real store. Consumers may feel unconscious of the passage of time and feel fun, free, and original. Therefore, the internet shopping mall should pay attention to what customers demand and reflect it through e-mail, real time chatting, and text messages. In addition, rich product information such as detailed images should be supplied to help customers visualize looks.

A Study of Paper Couture Based on Paper Modeling Techniques

  • Hong, Sungsun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.73-90
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    • 2014
  • Paper, once known and used only as a medium for printing or handicrafts, is now being used in new fields including artistic clothing, and an environment-friendly material for fashion, while the functionality of its formative characteristics and esthetics have been newly highlighted. On this basis, this study performed a content analysis of paper couture and categorization of types of paper modeling techniques based on 904 paper couture submitted to paper fashion shows, exhibitions and contest exhibits from 2001 to 2013. Analysis results showed that paper textile types were most common at 86.64%, while techniques using laminating, bonding, overlapping or paper as-is represented 62.17%. Expressive techniques in which paper was cut or torn and attached to paper clothing was 11.62%, paper folding was 5.75%, drawing and coloring 4.65%, and finally, paper cutting was 2.65%. Meanwhile, among paper modeling techniques using paper yarn textiles, a paper weaving technique was 6.75%. Moreover, other techniques in which paper modeling techniques or subsidiary clothing was blended were 3.65%, and Dak peeling textiles were 1.33%. Paper paste moulding textiles types represented 1.44%, above all papier $m{\hat{a}}ch{\acute{e}}$ techniques of 0.55% and creasing and holding techniques were 0.88%. Paper is sufficient to express the artists' creativity as well as having qualities as an artistic medium, such as variability through combined use with other materials, variation in form, suitability for reuse of waste paper, and environmental friendliness. Also, various paper modeling techniques can be blended with textiles for a generalized technology that overcomes the limits of paper and textiles.

Keyword networks in RJCC research - A co-word analysis and clustering - (RJCC 연구 키워드 네트워크 - 동시출현단어분석과 군집분석 -)

  • Seo, Hyun-Jin;Choi, Yeong-Hyeon;Oh, Seung-Taek;Lee, Kyu-Hye
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.27 no.3
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    • pp.193-205
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    • 2019
  • A trend analysis of research articles in a field of knowledge is significant because it can help in finding out the structural characteristics of the field and the future direction of research through observing change in a time series. We identified the structural characteristics and trends in text data (keywords) gathered from research articles which in itself is an important task in various research areas. The titles and keywords were crawled from research articles published from 2016 to 2018 in the Research Journal of the Costume Culture (RJCC), one of the representative Korean journal in the field of clothing and textile. After we extracted data comprising English titles and keywords from 195 published articles, we transformed it into a 1-mode matrix. We used measures from network analysis (i.e., link, strength, and degree centrality) for evaluating meaningful patterns and trends in the research on clothing and textile. NodeXL was used for visualizing the semantic network. This study observed change in the clothing and textile research trend. In addition to covering the core areas of the field, the subjects of research have been diversifying with every passing year and have evolved onto a developmental direction. The most studied area in articles published by the RJCC was fashion retailing/consumer psychology while aesthetic/historic and fashion industry/policy studies were covered to a more limited extent. We observed that most of the studies reflecting the identity of RJCC share subject keywords to a significant extent.

Degradation of Natural Dyed Silk Fabrics under Ultraviolet Light(UV) -Focused on Gardenia and Sappanwood- (자외선에 의한 천연 염색 견직물의 취화 연구 -치자, 소목 염색을 중심으로-)

  • Shin, Youn-Sook;Choi, Seung-Youn
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.5 s.164
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    • pp.659-669
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the degradation of silk fabrics dyed with gardenia and sappanwood by Ultraviolet Light(UV). To asses the effect of uv on dyed silk fabrics, physical and chemical properties of samples were explored. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time. Mordanting improved ultraviolet-cut ability and the sappanwood dyed samples were superior to those of gardenia dyed in ultraviolet-cut ability. Color progressively faded away as uv exposure time increased, accordingly, $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ were changed. Morphological change observed with SEM represented degradation of silk fabrics from the outer fibril to the inner fibril. Tensile Strength abruptly decreased as uv exposure time increased and the mordanted samples showed higher tensile strength than the unmordanted. FT-IR analysis confirmed that main peaks at 3297 and $1704cm^{-1}$ band for silk fabric were due to N-H and C=O stretching, gardenia peaks at 1654 and $668cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(ester), C=C(alken) and O-C=O(carboxylic acids) of crocin and sappanwood peaks at $1715cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(cyclic keton) of brazilin appeared on the samples exposed for 14 days, but these peaks indicating colorants after 28 days of uv exposure faded away due to prolonged exposure of uv.

A Study on the Sleeve Form Variation According to Arm Movements for Elderly Women - Approach to Clothing Ergonomics by Plaster Gypsum Experiments - (노년기 여성의 상지동작별 형태변화에 관한 연구 -석고법에 의한 피복인공공학적 접근-)

  • Min Hyun-Ja;Kim Hae-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.13 no.2 s.30
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    • pp.155-165
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    • 1989
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate on the sleeve form variation according to arm movements for elderly women. This study was experimented using the Plaster gypsum. The subjects who were elderly women were divided into three groups according to Rorher Index. Arm movements were five type ($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to each the vertical motion in front and in side. The statistical analyses used in this study were Mean, Standard Deviation, Spearman's correlation coefficients, paired T-test, Kruskal-wallis one-way ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. The results were as follows: 1) Increasing the movements, the width of the sleeve increased and the height of the sleeve cap decreased but girth of the sleeve cap was not consistant. 2) When varied the rates of the three aspects of the sleeve, the height of the sleeve cap showed the largest variation rate. 3) There was a negative correlation between the height and the width of the sleeve. On the other hand, there was a positive correlation between the sleeve width and the sleeve girth. 4) There were the vertical motion differences between in front and in side on the three aspects of sleeve. 5) The sleeve width and the sleeve girth were different according to somatotypes but the height of the sleeve cap was not different. 6) According to the variation rates of the body surfaces in length of standard lines, the form of sleeve was changed more in the front than in the back. Maximum variation rate showed in the areas of $D_1-D_3,\;E_1-E_3$ in the horizontal lines and $A-E_2$ in vertical lines. 7) According to the comparative drawing of the heights of sleeve cap and sleeve girth, the sleeve basic pattern $S_1(A.H/4)$ was more suitable for the direction $0^{\circ}\;and\;45^{\circ}$. And the basic pattern S_6(A.H/5)$ was more suitable for the direction $90^{\circ}$, the pattern $S_7(A.H/6)$ suitable for the direction $135^{\circ}$, and the pattern $S_8(A.H/8)$ was more suitable for the direction $180^{\circ}$.

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