• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.579-590
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• 2004

This research was aimed to investigate and compare the effectiveness of TLC and GC-MS methods in the analysis of chromophoric substances extracted from madder plant. Alizarin and purpurin 0.3% solution were used as comparative standards; madder extraction was prepared by heating the solution of powdered madder at 80℃, pH 1.5, for 90 min. Best elution solvent for TLC in silica gel plate was toluene:ethyl acetate=9:1, which resulted in red and yellow spots from madder extraction each of which showed R/sub f/ values 0.32-0.43 and 0.07-0.11. Although the red spot in particular exhibited similar characteristics as standard purpurin in color, shape, and R/sub f/ values, the result was inconsistent throughout different TLC trials. GC-MS analysis showed only small amount of alizarin and no purpurin in the madder extraction. Other chromophoric substance such as 2-furancarboxaldehyde, 5-(hydroxymethyl)-, anthralin, and danthron were also detected in small amounts. The result indicated that TLC was less sensitive to detecting and identifying the natural dyestuff which is generally constituted with a number of similar but chemically different chromophoric substances.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.137-145
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• 2004

According to the experimental results, it has been reported by several researchers that the air-permeability values of the fabrics mostly decreased by the mordanting during the dyeing procedure. The exact quantitative information, however, has not been presented so far. In this study, the change of the fabric air-permeability was investigated quantitatively. At the same time, the change of the fabric air-permeability according to the dyeing procedure. In order to investigate the possibility of the detachment of the metal ions on the fiber or fabric surface, the change of the air-permeability was investigated after several rinsing of the mordanted fabrics. By comparing the color differences of the cochineal dyed fabrics which were subjected to rinsing procedure after mordanting, the effect of the rinsing of the mordanted fabrics on the dyeing of fabrics was investigated. At the range of mordant concentration, 2% Cu, 2% Sn, 2% Fe, 2% Cr, 5% Al, the metal ions are not excessively absorbed on the fiber surface. Also, any remarkable detachment of the metal ions does not accompany after the mordanting with the subsequent rinsing procedure.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.36-46
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to manufacture colored Hanji for interior materials by combining color therapy and natural dyeing. To manufacture colored Changhoji for interior materials, seven species of dyestuff were selected as a results of preliminary natural dyeing. As mordants, 0.5% $AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_20$ and 0.5% $Cu(CH_3COO)_2{\cdot}H_2O$ solution were used respectively. To estimate natural dyeing properties of Changhoji, the value of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ and Munsell HV/C were measured by spectrophotometer. The super eight colors produced as follows; red from safflower, orang from goldthread and gardenia, yellow from turmeric, green and turquoise from indigo and pagoda tree flower, violet and magenta from sappanwood, and blue from indigo.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.81-84
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• 1983

The equilibrium sorption of Orange II by silk fibroin in the range of 50$^{\circ}$, 70$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}C$ and to pH 1.5, 2.2, and 4.0 have been discussed in the light of the dual sorption. Langmuir sorption constant K$\_$L/ and partition coefficient K$\_$P/ were decreased with the increase of the temperature and the pH for the dyeing of silk fibroin with Orange II. Positive values for adsorption entropy were observed. It was found that the values of $\Delta$H$^{\circ}$ is negative for dyeing conditions, and the dyestuff/fibre reaction is therefore exothermic.refore exothermic.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.372-379
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• 2000

Four kinds of neutral salts with different cations, LiCl, NaCl, KCl, and CsCl, were added to the dye bath to accurately understand the effect of cations on the reactive dyeing of silk with C. I. Reactive Black 5. The cations of salts added lowered the negative surface potential of the silk, improving equilibrium adsorption and the accessibility of the dyestuff to the fiber greatly and speeding up the dyeing rate in the order of $Li^+>Na^+>K^+>Cs^+$. The activation energy$(E_a)$ for the dyeing was in the order of$Li^+>Na^+>K^+>Cs^+$ but the activation free energy$(\Delta{G}^*)$, or the real energy barrier for the reaction, was in the order of $Li^+>Na^+>K^+>Cs^+$ because the degree of the contribution of E$^{a}$ to the activation entropy$(\Delta{S}^*)$ was $Li^+>Na^+>K^+>Cs^+$. It was found from this result that LiCl had the strongest lowering effect on the negative surface potential of silk. The decrease in $\Delta{S}^*$ should be attributed to the loosely bonded activated complex of dyestufffs, cations and fiber molecules at transition state. It was clarified from the Bronsted equation that salts had the ionic strength effect and the specific salt effect on the reactive dyeing.

• Clean Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.87-100
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• 2003

The aim of study was to suggest a methodology for applying cleaner production technology in dyeing & finishing process of textile materials. To accomplish cleaner production, we performed consulting activity in dyeing factory, which composed of following different procedures. First, we organized consulting team with specialists for dyeing, energy and chemicals, and visited dyeing companies for the purpose of doing basic investigation such as analysis of process, chemicals & effluents, condition of equipment and process flow of products. Environmental aspect of raw materials (dyestuff, chemicals) was assessed by TOC, COD, BOD, and effluent of that was assessed by TOC, COD, BOD, TDS and pH. Second, We find out the problems in dyeing&finishing process from the view point of dyeing process, energy, raw materials and process management by utilizing MB (material balance), LCA(Life Cycle Assessment), EB(Energy Balance). Third, we generated the solutions to achieve optimal process condition by brain storming method, and then implemented the solutions to each process. Finally, we determined their effectiveness after considering the results of repeating trials for the solutions. Cleaner production could be achieved by keeping optimal process conditions, equipment modification, improved production management, and on-site reuse or recycling.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.57-65
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• 2016

Indigo (Polygonum tinctorium L.) is a typical blue dye which had been used from ancient times. This study was going to shade the complicated traditional methods extracting indigo dye by the fermentation and producing as adsorbate on calcium hydroxide, which says so called as the 'Indigo lime'. Accordingly we were going to make indigo through the hydrolysis of the hot water extractives of indigo leaves simply. During hot-water extraction, ${\beta}$-glucosidase which required hydrolysis of the linkage between indigo and glucose was not activated. To achieve this goal, indican was acid-hydrolyzed to glucose and indigo. The acetic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, and sulfuric acid were used for the hydrolysis of hot water extractives. The hydrolysis conditions of extractives performed in water bath at $80^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes and in an autoclave for 120 minutes. In the acid hydrolysis of extracted indican by hot water, the indican yields of acetic acid and hydrochloric acid hydrolysis were higher than sulfuric acid in water bath. Also, the indican yield of hydrochloric acid hydrolysis was better than sulfuric acid in autoclave. The hot water extracted indican was confirmed by HPLC analysis and its structure was confirmed by UV-Vis and FT-IR spectroscopy, compared with isolated indigo and commercial synthesized indigo. This improved extraction and hydrolysis methods can be replace the traditional indigo making method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.68-80
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• 2010

In order to get the information needed for the preservation and application of Korean traditional dyeing techniques to modern textiles products, the present study analyzed the color and color differences of dyed goods according to the contents of fabrics and the traditional techniques of dyeing the Buddhist priests' robes. A spectrophotometer was used to measure the differences in achromatic color according to dyeing techniques, dyestuff, kinds of dyed fabrics, and after-treatment methods. Through experiments based on the traditional dyeing techniques used by Korean Buddhist priests, a total of 144 pieces of dyed fabrics were made and all the colors of those 144 pieces were analyzed. Among three dyeing techniques tested; (1) dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water, (2) dyeing with a dye-bath made by shaking a bag containing ink powder in water, and (3) dyeing with a dye-bath made by rubbing a boiled ink stick on a fabric, dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water was shown to be the best technique in terms of coloring. For fabrics, ramie was the best of all three techniques in terms of making achromatic color. Starching and rubbing was the most effective after-treatment method used on both fabrics dyed with a grounded ink stick and on fabrics dyed by rubbing a boiled ink stick on them. As a whole, yangyeonmook, made from minerals' soot, is better than songyeonmook, which is made by burning old pine trees or yooyeonmook, which is made by burning oils from seeds. Therefore, yangyeonmook could help to preserve and utilize the traditional dyeing techniques of Korea in a practical way in modern life.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.391-398
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• 2007

Ginkgo leaves, which have been known as medical materials, were selected as new natural dyes in this study, in which it was examined whether they have the function of UV-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji(Korean traditional paper) were dyed with Ginkgo. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as mordants. UV-blocking rate of dyed samples was measured after dyeing and mordant treatment. The results of this study are as follows. First, most surface color of dyed samples was yellow except that Hanji mordanted with Cu was yellowish red. Second, dyeing repetition had positive correlations with K/S values of cotton ($r=.\;758^{**}$), linen ($r=.\;500^*$) and Hanji ($r=.\;819^{**}$), because K/S values were increased according to dyeing repetition. Third, solar UV-blocking rates had positive correlations with dyeing repetitions (p<0.01), because UV-blocking rates had increased according to dyeing repetition. Fourth, UV-blocking ability of Hanji was highest among samples, as UV-blocking rates of cotton and linen dyed after 3 dyeing repetition were up to 93%, Hanji's values were up to 98%. Therefore, it was proven that Ginkgo extracts used in this experiment as dyestuff have excellent dyeing ability and high UV-blocking ability. It is hoped that this work will lead to further research to confirm the physiological effects when human wear the clothes made from Hanji.