• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to understand the dyeing properties and color analysis of fabrics knitted with ramie, cotton, wool and acrylic by using scoria and to analyze whether the knitted fabrics can be used for industrialization by measuring color fastness after and before sliver-nano process. The following is the conclusions. Firstly, when ramie fabric regarding cotton, wool and acrylic was dyed at the temperature of $50^{\circ}C$ for fifteen minutes by using 10, 25, 50, 100g/ $\ell$ of scoria, dyeing absorption gradually increased up to 50g/ $\ell$, and over the point of 50g/ $\ell$ it showed slow increase. Secondly, regarding saturation, among ramie fabric, wool, cotton and acrylic, wool appears as the lowest brightness. Therefore, it can be dyed with bright color and the highest value. In terms of the value of chromaticity, wool also emerges as the lowest brightness. On the contrary, acrylic showed the lightest red as it had the value of the smallest b. Cotton takes the lightest yellow as the b value of the cotton showed the smallest. Thus, scoria dyestuff is a material that showed strong red and yellow on knitted fabric mixed with wool that is the biggest a. b value. Thirdly, in terms of dyeing fastness, sunlight fastness did not show noticeable differences before and after silver-nano processes, but in terms of washing and friction fastness, the material processed by silver-nano indicated that all knitted fabrics are over 4-5 point. which means silver-nano process can be effective for the industrial applications. As mentioned above, as a result of dyeing knitted fabrics with scoria, this study found a possibility of dyeing in the fabric materials, and if there is deeper dyeing experiments, fastness experiments and speculations, it might be possible to be a big issue just like loess and charcoal.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.149-163
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• 2011

Hanjisa(Korean paper yarn), a new material made from the traditional Korean paper, has been developed through local R&D efforts, reflecting the current trend highly valuing environmental friendly. This new material is considered suitable for the 21C lifestyle and culture pursuing improved quality of human life and the environment. Therefore, this study aims to widely make known the originality and functions of the environmentally friendly Korean paper yarn, as well as to increase its commercial value. Furthermore, a new category of apparel design is presented by studying painting dyeing based on transformational tuck techniques and wax resist dyeing with formative features of repeated lines and rhythms of shells in order to implement three-dimensional and decorative artistic expressions. The texture of the Korean cotton paper yarn was particularly suitable to employ tuck and dyeing techniques Which express formative features of shell. Also, the material was useful for expressing the three-dimensional feelings with repeated curves and cross sections of shells. Moreover, paraffin resist dyeing and stitch techniques were used in order to avoid monotony and the images of shells visually materialized. Through the results stated above, this study could explore how to overcome obstacles to globalization of the Korean modern apparel such as its uniqueness, limit of materials or absense of internationality by applying modern design to the Korean paper fabrics. In the future, it is expected that more manufactures could produce and supply the new materials so as to make widely known the originality of the Korean paper fabrics and develop the material into a popular organic product fitting the modern lifestyle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.57-57
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• 2011

• Archives of design research
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• v.20
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• pp.211-217
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• 1997

Natural dyes don't pollute the environments in contrast to artifical dyes. The cloths dyed with natural material can be developed into insect-proof clothing and bedding. With natural tint, they can also produce natural images. The purpose of this paper is to show the way to develop the natural dye material easily available at cheap cost, to produce high value added products in terms of dyeing a wide range of colors by using this material, and to suggest the way for farmers to cultivate the onions in their idle land, thus gaining additidnal income. In the process of dyeing natural cloth with onion skin produced largely in Mooan, Chonnam, we were able to extract a wide spectrum of colours from yellow to pale brown and gray. Having reaped good results in the various endurance tests(of washing, friction, water, sweat, sunlight), this material is estimated to be highly worthy of industrialization.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.115-121
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• 2017

Demands for nylon suede as an artificial leather are increasing due to its functionality and aesthetics. To achieve high value added nylon suede based on green technology, this study was carried out in order to obtain useful data for the nylon suede fabrics with eco-friendly dyeing process by a pad-steam method instead of a dip dyeing process using sulphur black dye to reduce the industrial waste of water. The dyeability of the nylon suede was investigated according to reducing temperatures, dye concentrations, and reducing agent's concentrations. Throughout the results of the CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell values, the optimized dyeing conditions of the nylon suede using sulphur black dye are $70^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 30% o.w.f. of dye concentration, and $9g/{\ell}$ of reduction agent concentration, respectively. Furthermore washing colorfastness, light colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.1-9
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity on silk and rayon fabrics dyed with cochineal. The result are as follows; 1. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher than that of rayon fabric. 2. The optimum conditions are mordant concentration $0.5{\sim}1%$, dyeing material concentration 2.0%(o.w.f), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, PH 3 and dyeing time 30minutes. 3. Pre-mordanting method had higher dyeing absorption than post mordanting method in case of silk and rayon fabrics. 4. The antibacterial activity of dyed silk fabrics were higher than that of dyed rayon fabrics and the antibacterial activity was increased by mordanting. 5. The lightfastness and perspiration fastness of silk fabric were improved but these of rayon were not. Dyeing fastness was improved by Fe mordanting on both fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.14-22
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• 2016

The objective of this study is to develop eco-friendly, functional towel material utilizing cotton-Modal-chitosan blended(C-M-CH) yarn and natural dyeing with mugwort colorants. Dyeing properties of towels with mugwort colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions including concentration of mugwort colorants, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time, and the effects of mordants on dye uptakes were investigated. The C-M-CH towel showed better dye uptake than 100% cotton towel with mugwort colorants. The shade of towels got darker and red-yellowish tint increased by mordanting. Comparing with 100% cotton towel, the colorfastness of dyed C-M-CH towel was satisfactory showing above 3 grade which is the lowest grade to washing fastness. The antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and deodorization performance of towels were excellent and improved by dyeing with mugwort colorants. From the results obtained, it is concluded that the cotton-Modal-chitosan blended towel dyed with mugwort colorants can be used practically for an eco-friendly and multi-functional towel materials with excellent absorbance and drying properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.62-68
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• 2017

Coffee sludge and onion shells are known typically as waste resources as well as simultaneously being the raw material for dye having a golden brown color. This research studies the dyeability, functionality, and colors of woolen fabric after being dyed by different dyeing method using coffee sludge and onion shells extract. The woolen fabric was refined and pre-mordanted with tannin. The dyeing process conducted was single-dye, using coffee sludge and onion shells extract, sequential multi-dye, consecutively dyeing with coffee sludge and onion shells, and mixed-dye, blending coffee sludge extract and onion shells extract to dye. The dyeing was measured on the surface color, color fastness, and UV-protection ability. As a result, the expression of various hues of tan using coffee sludge and onion shells extract were shown to be possible. Additionally, single-dye, sequential multi-dye, mixed-dye had generally superiority in color fastness to light, all rating 3 and color fastness to washing, rating 3 or 4, showing relatively stable color fastness to washing. The UV protection ability was shown to be better, especially appearing satisfactory in the UV-B protection, all measured to be over 90%.