• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.149-155
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• 2010

The advanced and complicated modern society recognizes image creation based on the identity of the global competitive age as the important means. The requirement for a new vision to the globally environmental problem has affected on design so that as environmentally-friendly products and technologies have been developed and original expression modes have been appeared which the medium of paper which is natural material, paper has been highlighted newly. Hanji made of mulberry fiber, a bast fiber of mulberry is a representative environment-friendly natural fiber. In addition, it has various functions similar to those of yellow earth such as emission of far infrared rays, antibiosis, deodorization, fast dry ability of sweat, and simple dyeing ability. It is Hanji threads that are produced from various processes of Hanji materials. Therefore, hanji threads are able to be both woven and knitted still remaining Hanji's excellent characteristics. In addition, it is light, bio-degradable, durable and washable, and it is an environment friendly product with the distinguished texture and sensitivity. Under the concept of 'Circle' designed the uniforms of music hall to inform that the uniforms as a media representing music hall represents the unique Sori Arts Center of Jeollabuk-do traditional style.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.20-28
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• 2018

The near infrared ray camouflage fabric has a near infrared ray reluctance similar to the surrounding environment and has a camouflage effect on the surrounding environment. Synthetic fibers used in military uniforms are difficult to have gastrointestinal function as general commercial dyes, unlike cellulose fibers, which use some commercial vat dyes to impart infrared gastrointestinal function. In this study, we optimized the adsorption pH, temperature and time for NIR dye application for polyester fabrics, and established the optimum concentration for the evaluation of adsorption build-up characteristics. In addition, it is difficult to adsorb it since the polyester material has a dense crystal structure and the NIR dye is bulky. Therefore, a swelling agent used for dyeing meta-aramid fibers with high Tg and high crystallinity was introduced as a separate preparation to increase the affinity to polyester, which is a hydrophobic fiber, to thereby obtain an excellent adsorption rate. As a result of comparing before and after using swelling agent, the adsorption rate difference was 10 times or more when compared with before.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.261-272
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• 2010

The aim of the present study was to investigate the relations between wooden toy and development of infant and young children by taking only the commercialized wooden furniture which would be suitable for the developmental area for infant and young children, among the physical environment influencing the balanced development and development for them. The recommended standard for them was the commercialized good and the only advanced toys for the development of infant and young children was primary selected, in case of different furniture for same purpose with regardless of manufacturer, country of origin and price. The selected wooden toys for development of infant and young children covered the following test conditions. They keep the soft and clean surfaces and the corners are the round-finished so safe. The dyeing and coloring are so clear like the rainbow-colored in compliance with the international safety norm, and the paint material used are harmless to the people, because they have already passed the European Safety Norm EN 71 which is the most authoritative and strict standard in the world and contained accordingly little heavy metals, toxic substances and also allergy pigment under the maximum permissible standard. The size of wooden toys are not small enough for infant and young children to be able to swallow and this is important check point, because infants tend to feel the object in their own touching and therefore to have everything to the lip. The paint used was the toys-oriented goods and proved by the test regarding saliva and sweat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.6 s.85
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• pp.42-50
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• 2005

Silk fabrics are widely used as high quality cloth, interior, quilting and bedding materials because of having excellent touch, drape, resilience and low specific gravity characteristics. But, many waste silk materials are produced during the reeling, spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes. From this fact, the recycle of waste silks is interested in studying for the application of industrial textile materials such as filter, oil absorbent and wound protector. Thus, this research has surveyed the decolorizing and carding characteristics in order to recycle the colored waste silk materials. As the results, the carding condition of waste silk fabrics was optimized with different fiber lengths and curding passage. In addition, the fiber failure mechanism from the wasted silk microdamage caused by carding process was investigated. Also it was found that longitudinal and transverse cracks, abrasion and pilling were formed on the surface of wasted silk fibers.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.