• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.263-274
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• 2001

This study investigated the dyeability on silk, wool and rotten fabrics dyed with Magnolia liliflora leafs. In addition, the fastness of washing, perspiration, rubbing, drycleaning and the effects of its pigment on bacterial reduction and uv-B protection were also investigated. The results were as follows : It was found that uv-visible absorption spectrum showed two strong absorption peaks in the range of $250{\sim}340nm$. The optimum dyeing condition of the pigments extracted from the Magnolia liliflora leafs was dyeing with 0.5% mordants and three repeated dyeing at $95^{\circ}C$ for 1hr. When the wool fabric was dyed with Magnolia liliflora leaf, dyeing properties was the best among the three fabrics. Washing fastness of dyed fabrics was very low, drycleaning fastness was good and the other fastness were good. Light fastness of three fabrics dyed by Magnolia liliflora leafs increased by mordant treatment, especially copper sulfate treatment. The bacterial reduction and uv-B protection of dyed wool fabric with Magnolia liliflora leafs also increased.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.71-76
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• 2010

In this study the optimum dyeing conditions and blocking effect of UV deodorization efficiency of Ligustrum japonicum Thunb were investigated. Colorants were water-extracted from Ligustrum japonicum Thunb fruit and freeze-drided to obtain colorants powder. The effects of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and the number of dipping count were studied. Fastness to dry cleaning, rubbing, perspiration, and light were measured according to KS K 0644, KS K 0650, KS K 0715 and KS K 0700, respectively. In order to examine the dyeability according to dyeing conditions, reflectance of fabrics were measured by using UV/VIS spectrophotometer. The bath ratio was 1:20. Dyeing concentration was 100, 200, 300, 400 and 500% on the weight of fiber. Dyeing time was 20, 40, 60, and 80 minutes. Dyeing temperature was 20, 40, 60, 80, and $100^{\circ}C$. The infrared high pressure dying machine was used. As dyeing concentration increased, dye adsorption increased up to 400% and it slowed down. Dye uptake was increased with raising themperature up to $80^{\circ}C$ and it slowed down. Dye adsorption occurred rapidly at first 20 minutes and then it slowed down and reached almost maximum dye uptake at 60 min. Dye uptake increased by repeated dyeing. Therefore, it is considered that optimum dyeing condition is 400%(o.w.f.), $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min. And repeated dyeing improves dye uptake. Color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing was good, but light fastness and perspiration fastness was not good. Blocking effect of ultraviolet radiation and deodorization efficiency was good.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.882-889
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• 2008

국내에서 자라는 지의류의 한 종류인 Parmotrema austrosinence를 채취하여 염액을 제조하고, 제조된 염액을 사용하여 견직물, 나일론직물과 면직물을 염색하였다. Parmotrema austrosinence를 암모니아수에 넣고 발효시켜 얻은 염액을 사용하여 pH를 4, 7, 10으로, 염색온도를 $30^{\circ}C$, 50^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$로 각각 조절한 후 염색을 하였다. 면직물은 견직물과 나일론직물에 비해 염색성이 낮게 나타났다. 면직물의 염색성 향상을 위해 키토산 액으로 처리하고 염색성과 염색견뢰도의 변화를 검토하였다. 염색된 시료들의 염색성은 K/S값, ${\Delta}E$와 Munsell값을 측정하여 평가하였다. 염색된 시료들의 K/S값은 견직물의 경우에는 520nm에서, 나일론직물과 면직물은 480nm에서 최대 흡광파장을 나타냈다. 견직물 염색포의 K/S값은 $4.6{\sim}9.3$으로 $1.0{\sim}2.7$인 나일론직물이나 $0.8{\sim}1.6$인 면직물에 비해 매우 높게 나타나 견직물이 Parmotrema austrosinence 염액에 대해 우수한 염색성을 가짐을 확인하였다. 염색온도가 높아질수록 먼셀 색상값이 red나 yellow red에서 yellow쪽으로 이동하는 색상변화가 나타났다. 견직물의 경우, 염색온도가 $50^{\circ}C$와 $80^{\circ}C$일 때의 염색성이 비슷하였으며, 다른 직물의 경우에는 염색온도 상승에 따라 K/S값도 높아졌다. 따라서 지의류를 사용한 적정 염색온도는 견직물의 경우 $50^{\circ}C$, 다른 직물의 경우 $80^{\circ}C$임을 확인하였다. 염색된 시료의 먼셀 색상은 견직물에서는 R(red) 영역에서, 나일론 직물에서는 YR(yellow red)-R 영역에서, 면직물은 YR 영역으로 나타났다. 면직물과 나일론직물은 중성 또는 산성염액에서 염색이 잘 되었고, 견직물의 경우는 중성 염액에서의 염색성이 가장 우수하였다. 염색성이 낮게 나타난 면직물은 키토산 가공에 의해 염색성과 염색견뢰도를 향상시킬 수 있음을 확인하였다 염색된 시료들의 일광견뢰도와 세탁견뢰도는 대체로 낮게 나타났으나 드라이크리닝 견뢰도는 4-5급 또는 5급으로 모두 우수하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.253-270
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• 2016

In the wool textile industry, the necessity for technology development has been steadily raised to create improved fineness and yarn count of existing wool yarns with thick fineness for ensuring higher quality grades of wool yarn. Recently, through controlling fineness of wool yarn for making finer wool in relation with environmentally-friendly and high-sensitivity trend, a differentiated continuous drawing process where the quality of wool can be artificially manipulated has been suggested in the latest textile industry. This study investigated the basic conditions during the continuous drawing process which enable to manufacture wool yarn with fine count by controlling reducing agent treatment, physical drawing and drying after reducing agent treatment, and oxidizing agent post-treatment conditions. Furthermore, this study reviewed the drawing effects by applying the basic conditions for reduction and oxidation reaction in the drawing processes of wool/cashmere, wool/silk, wool/polyester blended yarns as well as such wool yarns. Also, in order to review the practicability, this study examined the physical properties and dyeability of drawn wool yarn applied textile materials in comparison with normal wool yarn applied textile materials.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.58-70
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• 1998

The color difference value of fabrics dyed with browning extracts from mushroom were as follows. 1. Two hours of dyeing depending on pH at 95℃ exhibited colors of YR and Y. The color of wool and nylon was darkest brown at pH 4, but light brown or yellow as pH increased. The color of silk was darkest brown at pH 5 and pH changes resulted in the same tendency as in wool. 2. In wool the color was changed to darker brown as time prolonged, however, there was no further color change after 9hr and value and chroma of wool declined. 3. At pH 4, the increase in temperature turned colors of sil, wool and nylon into dark brown from light yellow. 4. As the result of repetitive dyeing, colors of silk, wool and nylon gradually turned into darker brown. The repetitive dyeing was more effective in dark color and high colorfastness compared to a prolonged dyeing. 5. The amount of mordant resulted in color changes between light yellow and dark brown without various color changed. 6. In color change according to methods of mordant, post-mordant with CuSO₄·5H₂O and with SnCl·2H₂O showed colors of green and light yellow, respectively.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.