Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
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Fabric Dyeing with Lichen Parmotrema austrosinence and Improvement of Dyeability by Chitosan Treatment

Parmotrema austrosinence(지의류)를 이용한 직물염색과 키토산 처리에 의한 염색성 향상

  • Yoo, Hye-Ja (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seowon University) ;
  • Lee, Hye-Ja (Dept. of Home Economics Education, National University of Education) ;
  • Rhie, Jeon-Sook (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonbuk National University)
  • Published : 2008.06.30
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Abstract

Three fabrics, 100% silk, nylon and cotton each, were dyed with a lichen dye solution prepared by a fermentation method under conditions of varying dyebath pH and temperature. To verify the effect of chitosan on fabric dyeing, the 100% cotton fabric was treated with a chitosan solution before dyeing. The K/S, CIE $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, ${\Delta}E$ and Munsell values of the dyed samples were measured. Colorfastness of each sample was also investigated. The maximum K/S value was measured at 520nm wavelength for the dyed silk fabric and at 480nm for the dyed cotton and nylon. The K/S values for the dyed silk fabric were much greater than those of the other fabrics. The dyed silk fabric showed a red tone on the Munsell color system, and the dyed nylon and cotton fabrics a yellowish red tone. Dye affinity to fabrics was better in a neutral or acidic dyebath. As dyeing temperature increased, K/S values increased for the dyed nylon and cotton fabrics but not for the silk. Dyeability of cotton fabrics could improve by Chitosan treatment. As for most natural dyes, colorfastness of all dyed samples was poor. The silk fabric showed an excellent dry cleaning fastness of Grade 5.

국내에서 자라는 지의류의 한 종류인 Parmotrema austrosinence를 채취하여 염액을 제조하고, 제조된 염액을 사용하여 견직물, 나일론직물과 면직물을 염색하였다. Parmotrema austrosinence를 암모니아수에 넣고 발효시켜 얻은 염액을 사용하여 pH를 4, 7, 10으로, 염색온도를 $30^{\circ}C$, 50^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$로 각각 조절한 후 염색을 하였다. 면직물은 견직물과 나일론직물에 비해 염색성이 낮게 나타났다. 면직물의 염색성 향상을 위해 키토산 액으로 처리하고 염색성과 염색견뢰도의 변화를 검토하였다. 염색된 시료들의 염색성은 K/S값, ${\Delta}E$와 Munsell값을 측정하여 평가하였다. 염색된 시료들의 K/S값은 견직물의 경우에는 520nm에서, 나일론직물과 면직물은 480nm에서 최대 흡광파장을 나타냈다. 견직물 염색포의 K/S값은 $4.6{\sim}9.3$으로 $1.0{\sim}2.7$인 나일론직물이나 $0.8{\sim}1.6$인 면직물에 비해 매우 높게 나타나 견직물이 Parmotrema austrosinence 염액에 대해 우수한 염색성을 가짐을 확인하였다. 염색온도가 높아질수록 먼셀 색상값이 red나 yellow red에서 yellow쪽으로 이동하는 색상변화가 나타났다. 견직물의 경우, 염색온도가 $50^{\circ}C$와 $80^{\circ}C$일 때의 염색성이 비슷하였으며, 다른 직물의 경우에는 염색온도 상승에 따라 K/S값도 높아졌다. 따라서 지의류를 사용한 적정 염색온도는 견직물의 경우 $50^{\circ}C$, 다른 직물의 경우 $80^{\circ}C$임을 확인하였다. 염색된 시료의 먼셀 색상은 견직물에서는 R(red) 영역에서, 나일론 직물에서는 YR(yellow red)-R 영역에서, 면직물은 YR 영역으로 나타났다. 면직물과 나일론직물은 중성 또는 산성염액에서 염색이 잘 되었고, 견직물의 경우는 중성 염액에서의 염색성이 가장 우수하였다. 염색성이 낮게 나타난 면직물은 키토산 가공에 의해 염색성과 염색견뢰도를 향상시킬 수 있음을 확인하였다 염색된 시료들의 일광견뢰도와 세탁견뢰도는 대체로 낮게 나타났으나 드라이크리닝 견뢰도는 4-5급 또는 5급으로 모두 우수하였다.

Keywords

References

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