• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.115-126
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• 2002

This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

• 한국정밀공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국정밀공학회 2002년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.396-399
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• 2002

A roughing process is the one of most important shoe manufacturing processes. Especially, it is indispensable to manufacture the leather shoes such as dress shoes, safety shoes, golf shoes, etc. The roughing process relies greatly on the operator's skill and experience. Therefore, the automation of roughing process is necessary to establish the improvement of productivity. We are trying to develop the Automatic Roughing Machine controlled by NC. As pre-study to do this, we need to measure the roughing path for NC, because there is no study on this pan and no reference about this. In this study, we proposed the 3-Dimensional Scanner System to measure the roughing path with new concept. The developed 3-D scanner System generates the roughing path using the 3 images obtained from 3 CCD cameras. The experimental results show that the proposed system can measure accurately the roughing path.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.224-241
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• 2017

This study considered the change process for Western style shoes in Korea during the time of modernization in the 1920s to 1930s. Western style shoes were one of the items imported by foreigners since the Joseon Dynasty and had a significant impact on Korean dress code. It influence started to spread in the 1900s; however, few high level people wore Western shoes until the 1920s. The trend started to spread through newspaper advertisements and news articles after the mid 1920s. Western shoes such as modern girl and modern boy in the 1930s then entered into Korean culture. Korea under Japanese colonial rule was reorganized on a war footing in the latter half of the 1930s and the main materials for western shoes (cow leather, horse leather and sheepskin) were mobilized as materials for war production; subsequently, new materials using rubber were introduced. The representative material is 'Marine Leather (水産皮革)' and Sharkskin 'Gyoheok (鮫革)' and Whaleskin 'Gyeongpi (鯨皮).' Form is like the material has changed over time. This study also observed the flow of westernized Korean modern shoes as well as analyzed the details of materials and shape of western shoes by period. This represent basic materials to understand the legacy of western shoes in the age; in addition, systemic summary is organized by each kind, shape and materials for each style of western shoes.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2001

The objective of this study is to research the costume of Three Han to be recorded in -$\ulcorner$Samkukgy$\urcorner$ Tongyjeon. They were written tattoos, broad head, physique, hair style, dress. accessories-lnsu, beads, head dress, shoes and cloths in Tongy-jeon. The results of this study are as fellows: Tattoos were common in Three Han. Those may be carved by chinese ink on body except a face. Broad head was Byonhan and Jinhan s customs. The physique of Mahan and Byonhan s men was tall and big. The hair style was just topknot not to put on a hat in Mahan, long hair In Byonhan and short hair for slaves in Jinhan. And then tattoos, flat head and skull, long hair style were the southern style. The dresses were two piece style-po and trousers. The shoes were made of leather. Those were the northern style. Eui-Chek, In-Su were royal gift of china. And they put valuable on beads, not gold, silver and golden embroidery cloths. This was different from other countries, And so we can find the variety of cultures at that time. The varieties came from the southern, northern, china and unique style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.61-71
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• 1997

In industrial designing of ready-to-wear shoes, one important factor to consider is that the population has diverse fooot shapes as well as foot length. The general shape of a foot could be represented by "foot ratio", i.e. the ratio of width to length. In this study, we measured several dey aspects of young Korean men's foot, and compared the results with their shoe sizes and general foot shapes. To this end, 172 male subjects were categorized according to their shoe size (small, medium, large) or foot ratio (wide, narrow, intermediate). The statistics of this survey indicated that the people with narrow foot shap have significantly greater foot length compared with the one having wide foot shape. Conversely, subjects having wide foot shape manifested significantly greater foot and ankle girth as well as significantly greater foot breadth. However, different foot shape groups showed no significant differences in heel width, heel ankle girth, instep height, and malleolus height. On the other hand, subjects wearing larger shoe size showed significantly larger foot measurements except instep and ankle heights, whereas subjects with shoe sizes 260 and below measured significantly more narrow heel and lateral metatarsal breadths. The deviation between foot length and dress shoe size(length) was greater in groups with wide foot shape and in groups wearing large shoe sizes. The results of this survey indicated that the subjects with wide foot shape apparently choose a size or two larger shoes for them as a compromise for a better breadth fit.eadth fit.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권7호
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• pp.1135-1145
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to identify the desired seIf-images of male college students according to situations, and to construct fashion product unities bought by male college students for different situations. Empirical data were collected by self-administered questionnaires distributed to male students at 4 universities and 2 colleges in Daegu and Gyeongbuk area during June 2005, and 346 were analyzed, eliminating incomplete ones. Subjects were required to respond to 32 desired image words in 4 different situations respectively: school, meeting girlfriends, ceremonies, and exercises. As a result of factor analysis on desired self-image words, 5 factors were determined: refined image, sporty image, classic image, natural image and simple image. Based on the desired self-image factors, male college students were classified into 3 groups: selective image management group, passive image management group, and active Image management group. Fashion product unity of male college students for the school setting was consisted of round shirts, jeans, running shoes, bags and watches. Aloha shirts/knitted shirts/V-neck shirts, cotton pants/jeans/semi -formal pants, formal shoes/running shoes and watches were the fashion product unity for the setting of meeting girlfriends. For the setting of ceremonies, the fashion product unity included Y-shirts, formal dress, formal shoes, neckties and watches. And for the setting of exercises, the fashion product unity included cotton shirts, training suits, running shoes/jogging shoes/basketball shoes, armguard and caps.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

In the Joseon Dynasty, a Court Ladies' full dress was Slanted by the Ming Dynasty. Since the Ming Dynasty had declined, a Court Ladies' full dress, Jeok-ui began to be made by the Joseon Dynasty. It was based on the Chinese Court Ladies' full dress, Desam, but it became Joseon's own style, which was different from the Chinese one. The formula of Jeok-ui was completed in the time of King Yongjo. Since then, Jeok-ui for big ceremonies was called Bub-bok. It was recorded on the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. The color of Jeok-ui was departmentalized for the wearer; red one for the Queen, bluish black one for the Crown Princess, and purple one for the Queen mother. There were some differences between Jeok-ui for feasts and for big ceremonies. In the case of Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, the pattern of Hyung-bae for the Queen was a dragon with five claws, and for the Crown Princess, a dragon with four claws. On the other hand, in the case of Jeok-ui for feasts, the pattern of Hyung-bae was phoenixes for the Queen, Crown Princess and the Queen mother. The number of embroidered round badges, which were attached to Jeok-ui, was 51 for big ceremonies, and 36 for feasts. The skirt for big ceremonies was a Jeonang-ut-chima with dragons pattern for the Queen, and phoenixes for the Crown Princess. The Queen's skirt for feasts was a Jeonang-ut-chima with phoenixes pattern, and the Queen mother's also. The Crown Princess' was a double skirt with phoenixes pattern. The pearls were not decorated on the shoes for big ceremonies, but shoes for feasts had six big pearls fer decoration. When the royal woman wore Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, it was prepared for Kyu, Pe-ok and belt with jade. But those were not necessary for Jeok-ui for feasts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.