• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2004

This study examined the kinds, shape, technique, and arrangement of pattern for the Korean traditional women costume between 1995 and 2002. The sources used this study were collected from the magazine “HANBOK, ONGOJISHIN, BEAUTIFUL OUR DRESS” Results were as follows 1) In the kinds of pattern, the most pattern of use was the flower pattern, and the geometric pattern showed the trend of increase. these results mean the use of pattern lately is progressed by the new direction. 2) In the shape of pattern, the style shapes were decreased gradually and the geometric shapes were increased. these results show that the modern beauty is chased. 3) In the technique of pattern. the results viewed that the embroidery technique used in the meantime decreased and the JOGAKBO technique increased. 4) In the arrangement of pattern, the modern arrangement was most superior in the most of year. That is estimated the arrangement of pattern have been chased the modern beauty than the others of pattern.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.452-458
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• 2019

This study provides basic research for developing dress forms of women's wear making. This study compared the average body size of Korean women by investigating the shape, composition and size of 417 dress forms for pattern making, sold at Korean and international online malls. The results showed that Korean brands produced torso-type and torso-crotch-type (94.13%), torso-type was the most dominant type made by Japanese Ki and French St (${\geq}80%$), and all US Al products were whole-body-type. The most common used internal filler of the dress forms was urethane for South Korean companies and paper for Japanese Ki and French St. In most cases, cotton was used for outer materials. Alternatively, linen and rayon were used as outer materials. Al did not indicate the materials used for filler and outer layers. Additionally, the sizing system of dress forms was commonly presented as a Numeric type. In addition to Numeric type, Ki presented body type + usage and Al used character type. When the dress form size for the average bust size of each age group was evaluated, waist measurements were smaller than the corresponding bust measurements. Dress form was presented in the KS interval and was compared with the $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ interval of each age group. The majority of the dress forms produced in South Korea were for body shapes in their 20s.

• 복식
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• 제49권
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• pp.137-154
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• 1999

This study was designed to unify two types -traditional and western- of wedding dress in one and to develop new wedding dress which can be used to wedding ceremony as well as Pae-Bae(Greeting) as an alternative for the modernistic utilization of traditional wedding dress. The wedding dress for a bride and bridegroom was developed to be used not only for wedding ceremony but also for engagement. The children's dress which can be worn for carrying flowers in front of a bride and a bridegroom was also developed. All six dresses two of each for a bride and a bridegroom one of each for a body and a girl were developed from the review of literature and photos to be introduced traditional wedding dress. The results were as follows: 1. The Korean characteristics in the developed dress were expressed well in the curves straight lines oblique lines and cracks. 2. The traditional symbolic meanings were expressed by using the pattern which was on traditional wedding dress. Changes from five original colors -red, blue, yellow, white, black- to pastel colors also could modernize the dress. 3. The Korean characteristics could be effectively expressed in dying techniques and piling -up by using hand-made silk and No-Bang, 4. The children's dress for a ceremony was re-established to modernized design with traditional beauty. 5. The expenses could be saved practically because the dress was developed for wedding ceremony as well as for engagement.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.111-122
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• 1992

Studying the dress style of the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy SU WOL KWAN EUM DO (Drawings on the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy who is watching the Moon reflected in the still water), it is composed of a splendid, jewel crown with five colors, a light and flimsy, non-colored veil with many kinds of gold·plated patterns. This gold·plated carapace figures on a scarlet ground are drawn on the veil and the oval-type flower figures mixed with a scarlet lotus blossom ard arranged. An arabesque pattern of BOSANGHWA (an imaginary, Buddhistic flower figure) is mainly used for both line decorations and necklace. Like this, various kinds and types of figures are in harmony in spite of many changes in figure design. The SU WOL KWAN EUM DO in Koryo dynasty is full of colorful, subtle, harmonious figures which are unique style, which cannot be found in japan, China, and so on. In other words, most of most of dress patterns which are shown in SU WOL KWAN EUM DO are China ink paintings with mountains and waters as its setting. In case of color painting, figure designs are seldom used. The dress pattern in SU WOL KWAN EUM DO of koryo dynasty is characteristic of its variety and magnificent colors.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.103-114
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present adapting Korean aesthetics to the design of Wedding dress. For this study. Chosun Women's Pyoeui(coat) were considered. Pyoeui had the courtesy and variety. They were Jugeui, Wonsam, Hwalos, Dangeui, and Jangeui. Pyoeui were considered the formative features and the aesthetical values describing Shape, Color, Material, Pattern, and Ornament. And Pyoeui were considered the instances which were adapted their formative features to Wedding dress. The formative features appearing on Wedding dress were merely applied the outward shape. Therefore it will be necessary to understand the outward features and the aesthetical values about Women's Pyoeui for adapting Wedding dress. And then the continuous attempt is needed to adapt Korean aesthetics to the design of Wedding dress.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.39-50
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present adapting Korean beauty to the design of Wedding dress. For this study, Chosun Men's Pyoeui(coat) were considered first. Pyoeui had the courtesy and variety. They were Jobog, Danryeong. Chulrlk, Dabho, Jangeui, Aegjueumpo, Jigryeong, Changeui, Changos, Jungchimag, Hagchangeui, Simeui, Dopo, and Durumagi. Pyoeui were considered the formative features and the costume beauty describing Shape, Color, Material, Pattern. and Ornament. And Pyoeui were considered the instances which were adapted their formative features to Wedding dress. The formative features appearing on Wedding dress were merely applied the outward shape. Therefore it will be necessary to understand the outward features and the costume beauty about Men's Pyoeui for adapting Wedding dress. And then the continuous attempt is needed to adapt the beauty of Korean costume to the design of Wedding dress.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.625-634
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to preview artistic presentation, factors of designing and ornamentation, to provide useful information to the wedding dress industry in developing consumer-oriented design of wedding dress. Also, this study is to investigate relativity between individual characteristics, such as demographic character and body figures, and preference of consumers, in order to learn if there is any pattern of consumers decision making, and to help consumers by giving tips for their wedding dress shopping. According to this study, I can see that when modern South-Korean adult women choose their wedding dress, they consider many factors just like silhouette, detail, fabric material and so on, then they select their own best dress by grasping their body characteristics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.441-454
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• 2004

This article aimed at semiotically analyzing and encoding the characteristics of Pop. Artistic style of a dress in the 2000's, and understanding social and cultural meaning to characteristics revealed at modern style of a dress. As research methods, Pop. Art factors were adjusted to non-individuality, openness, eroticism, parody through precedent research comparing and considering Pop. art, and 61 photos were selected, and they were analyzed into signifier and signified. It's analysis results are as follows. Non-individualistic image revealed modern style of a dress was intensively indicated at the pattern aspect of Pop. Art style of a dress, and any remarkable characteristics were not shown at the form aspect. Non-individuality was actively and progressively expressed due to the effect of the 2000's trends to pursue of frank desire, artistic and sensual life. For open image revealed at modern style of a dress, the characteristics were intensively highlighted at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at textile and pattern aspect, and notable signifier did not turn up. Pop. Artistic eroticism in the 2000's could be seen to unconditionally expose, or commercialize sex, but fashionably and gorgeously re-interpret it, which was found that the expression to women was changed in a free and emotionally-oriented way by the influence of feminism, expansion of feministic thought and optimism on New-millenium. At parody, simple and humorous parody rather than deep intended or heavy mattered one was seen, which means the effect of the 21st culture pursuing pleasure, fun and humor appeared as an positive parody phenomenon. It is found that the Pop. Art style of a dress in the 2000s shows up as a feministic, bright, cheerful Pop. Art in that it creates exaggerated harmony mixed with decorativeness ad functionalism, and pursue for frank desire and reflects optimistic trend of New Millenium seeking for fun and humor.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.81-100
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to link traditional patterns to mordern clothing. Of all the traditional patterns, the fish pattern was chosen for use during the development of a creative one-piece design for woman and shirts design for man. This study is based upon document searches, including research papers. Through these searches, it investigates the symbolic meaning, formation of the fish pattern and the creative design process. Based on this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the fish pattern and apply the fish patterns to the design of a one-piece dress and shirts. The design procedure includes three sub-processes: selection, arrangement and color-scheme. The selection process, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The arrangement of the pattern was made through the checklist conception method, containing the following functions: expand, reset, repeat, omission and dismantling. For the color-scheme of the pattern, Paul Klee(1879-1940)work was selected, and the colors in his work were adopted when dyeing the rest of the one-piece dress and shirts as well as fish features. In conclusion, six designs of the one-pieces dress and shirts were created by using one of Korea's traditional patterns-the fish pattern. This kind of study not only let the world know about the unique beauty of nations but also helps to inspire people who has a profession in design, by suggesting design development process based on design competitiveness improvement factor from fusion of tradition and modern.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.