• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• Composites Research
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.188-195
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• 2022

본 논문은 멀티스케일 공정-구조 해석의 방법론을 제안하고 단섬유층과 직물층으로 이루어진 배터리 하우징 파트에 적용한다. 특별히 마이크로스케일 대표체적요소(RVE: Representative Volume Element)안 기지의 불확정성을 고려하였다. 마이크로스케일의 RVE내 기지 물성의 랜덤한 공간내 분포는 KLE(Karhunen-Loeve Expansion)을 통해 구현하였다. 공간상 랜덤분포된 기지 물성을 갖는 RVE의 유효 물성을 전산균질화를 통해 얻어 매크로스케일 유한요소 모델에 매핑하였다. 또한 하이브리드 공정해석을 통해 압축 성형 해석으로부터 얻은 잔류응력과 섬유배향을 매핑한 유한요소 모델과 드레이핑 공정 해석결과로부터 얻어진 섬유배향을 매핑한 모델을 결합하였다. 본 연구에 제안된 방법은 배터리 하우징 뿐만 아니라 다양한 재료 구성을 갖는 복합재료의 공정-구조해석을 통해 설계요구도를 엄밀하게 평가할 수 있을 것이라 기대된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• 한국정보과학회논문지:소프트웨어및응용
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.181-191
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• 2005

본 논문에서는 컴퓨터그래픽으로 구현된 인체에 착용되는 의류의 시뮬레이션을 위한 수치해석알고리즘 및 소프트웨어 개발을 수행하였다. 개발된 알고리즘은 수학적으로 elliptical 흑은 비순차적인 성질을 가지는 두 개의 켤레조화함수(conjugate harmonic functions)들을 사용하여, 지나간 시간단계(time step)에서의 견과에 의존하지 않고 매 순간의 역학적 균형만으로 의류에 형성되는 주름의 형태를 표현한다. Global-local 해석기법을 채택하여 global 스케일에서의 전체적인 변형과 local 스케일에서의 부분적인 변형으로 나누었으며, 이 두 가지 스케일에서의 해석 결과가 선형적으로 중첩될 수 있음을 가정하였다. Global 해석에서는 신체 각 부위의 회전이나 평행이동, 뒤틀림 등의 전반적인 변형에 따른 인체와의 접촉점의 변화와 응력을 고려하였다. Local 해석에서는 국소적인 주름의 형상을 얻기 위해 주름의 진폭등고선과 주름의 방향 사이의 직교성을 가정하여 단순화 시켰다. 본 제안 방법은 불연속적으로 변화하는 두 개의 서로 다른 자세에 대해서도 중간단계 해석을 위한 시간증분의 삽입이 불필요하며, 기존의 방식에서 주로 사용되는 시간적분의 방법을 채택하지 않으므로 연산 시간의 절감과 안정성의 향상이 이루어졌다. 임의의 두 자세 사이의 연속 동작을 시뮬레이션 함에 있어서도 두 정지 자세 사이의 움직임을 보간법으로 구현하여 연속적인 의류의 변형을 구현할 수 있었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.159-170
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• 2006

This study aims to examine the expressive properties of contemporary corset, and to develop designs and produce patterns for corset look clothes. Through these courses, it develops a pattern that may all meet the exactness, functionality and aesthetic aspects of a pattern and provides materials that may help create a corset look design in the course of actuallymaking a garment. Based on the elements mentioned above, a total of three (3) real works were developed and their patterns were created. The patterns include two (2) flat patterns and one (1) patterns using the draping method. The results found in the course of creating works and patterns are as follows: With new corset look designs, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of the body In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becoming outerwear may be a new idea in dress designing.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.99-106
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• 2007

In this study, the mechanical properties related to the fabric appearance of well being functional bamboo knitted fabric before and after loess dyeing were evaluated. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-F system, that is, shape retention, draping, wrinkle recovery, compression property, and surface properties, and total hand value of three types of knitted fabric, 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, and bamboo / cotton blend (60 / 40) were evaluated before and after loess dyeing. As a result, it was found that appearance density, shape retention, and drape coefficient of cotton knitted fabric were greater than those of bamboo knitted fabric. After loess dyeing, shape retention and drape coefficient, wrinkle recovery of bamboo knitted fabric improved and WC/C and MMD/SMD decreased. According to THV, the hand of bamboo/cotton blend knit is the best among three samples by compensation the weak properties of the two fiber. Therefore, loess dyeing seemed to be a good method for improving shape retention and hand value of 100% bamboo and bamboo blended fabric.

• 한국복합재료학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복합재료학회 2004년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.139-142
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• 2004

The fabric composite rings for nozzle parts of solid rocket motors should be thick to endure high temperature and pressure of combustion gas. Since the thermal residual stresses developed during manufacturing of the axi-symmetric composite structures increase as the thickness increases and eventually induce failures during storage and operation, the estimation of the residual stresses is indispensable for design and manufacture of the thick composite nozzle parts. In this paper, thick fabric rings made of carbon fabric phenolic composites were fabricated in a hydroclave and in an autoclave using a multi-step pre-compaction process to minimize draping. The residual stresses distributed in the rings were measured by the radial-cut method and it was found that the compaction reduces the residual stresses in the composite ring.