• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.85-102
• /
• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.459-469
• /
• 1993

The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.57-67
• /
• 1984

The purpose of this study is to develop a devided skist Pattern drafting method for Korean Women between the ages of 18$\~$24 on the basis of their physical characteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procednras are as follows : 1, A new devided skirt pattern drafting method is developed based on the results of draping to find the essential measuring items for devided skirt construction, 27 items of KAIST measurement data analysis to establish representative and independent items and fitting tests. 2. To establish fittness and comfort in the new pattern comparing it with in a conventional one, asensory evaluation is applied. According to the statistical analysis of the results of the sensory evaluation, the findings are as followings ; 1. Composite reliability coefficient is 0.68. 2. Qut of 30 items, 25 items for fittness show significant differences (pp$\leqq$0.05, p$\leqq$0.01, P$\leqq$0.001) between the two, with the new pattern better fitted, presenting a pleasing appearance in hormony with the figure and contributing to the wearer's sense of wellbeing. 3. Hip crotch and hem dimensions for comfort show significant differences (p$\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern more comfortable, but no significant difference is showed between the two in activity variable. 4. The new pattern drafting method is shown in figuke 4.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.674-696
• /
• 2011

Recent change in consumption patterns, casual clothing market share is growing. Awareness about the quality of the product for a variety of consumer needs are becoming. Accordingly, stretch material items that satisfy modern production and consumption is increasing. Among them, circular knit and woven fabrics with different characteristics have. However, this requires a consideration of the pattern graphics, this study is not getting enough. The purpose of this study is to develop a T-shirt using circular knit pattern for women in early twenties. Through the research of literature and a survey on T-shirt patterns of ready-to-wear manufactures and training for the pattern 4 T-shirt patterns were selected. Eight women in early twenties who fit the bodily standard were selected for the test. Subjects who were tested by wearing a T-shirt made of 30's cotton circular knit. Drafting method of T-shirt pattern which were closed to the optimum value three, derived from the five point rating scale outfit test were selected and the differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified. Passed by the test of 2 times and the final research T-shirt pattern was developed through adjusting from the optimum value three. The form which is whole is a silhouette closely in the body and drafting method the elasticity and drapery considered the quality of the circular knit where the characteristic is excellent.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.420-423
• /
• 2006

Spandex has been successfully applied on modified worsted spinning system to produce spandex core spun yam. However it's difficult to produce wool/spandex core-spun yam on woolen spinning system with the same modified device because the drafting device of the two systems is quite different. A new method is introduced to apply spandex on woolen spinning system in this paper. Core-spun yam produced in this way has good appearance and quality by comparing with normal yam. A series of experiments were carried out to study the influence of spandex drafting ratio and yam twist factor on tensile' properties and elasticity of core-spun yams. The results indicate that core-spun yam with spandex drawing ratio of 2.5 and twist factor of 13.63 has highest value of tenacity and breaking elongation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.13 no.2 s.30
• /
• pp.146-154
• /
• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.211-228
• /
• 1994

We consider the irrational part of the basic pattern drafting of the Geo-Ko-ri so that we want to design it more scientically. So there are problems which is found after we considered with comparison about the existingly basic pattern drafting of Geo-go-ri. (1) there is a difference between the practical and Calculation. (2) The part of the curved line was mad indistinctly There is a difference betweence the calculating expression and calculating value. (4) There are some parts which lack objectivity about the reference size. (5) The calculating method of Collar-width and Neck-Nidth are not formative and rational. These are items that we must consider and study further. Especially if we can make up of the scientific form in consideration of the formativeness focused on "git" I think it will make a great contribution to not only the standardization of the basic pattern of Geo-go-ri and the use of the use of education but also the manufacture of individual clothing the production by Auto CAD. Auto CAD.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.189-196
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this study is to develop a computer program for automatic dart manipulation, as well as basic pattern making, of women's front bodice. In addition to accuracy and efficiency In pattern making, this computer program provides variations of basic patterns through dart manipulation. AutoCAD, running on the Austin 486DX micro-computer is used for this research. The procedures of this study are as follows : 1. A pattern-making method for women's front bodice is selected. 2. All co-ordinate points are located following the same way and order of drafting. 3. Drafting of a basic front bodice is programmed 4. Functions for various single dart manipulations are defined. 5. Menu-driven user interface is developed.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.7-9
• /
• 1978

In this calculation of statical stability of a ship, mechanical integrator was used most popularly and the direct calculation method such as a Barn's wedge method was also adopted in some cases. Both of the above method was developed for manual calculation which include mechanical integration or drafting procedure on body plan. Therefore, the computerization of stability calculation by the above method is very difficult. In this paper a simplified method for stability calculation is suggested, with based on hydrostatic data and immerged wedged characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.49 no.4
• /
• pp.93-104
• /
• 2011

The basic framework of traditional Korean clothing construction consists of circle, square and triangle. This composition principle has been presumed to be associated with the Cheonbu concept of the Dangun era wherein nature and human being are considered united. The Cheonbu concept is represented by circle, square and triangle which constitute Cheonbuin, the images and meanings of heaven. It contains profound philosophy wherein a circle symbolizes heaven and represents number one, a square symbolizes earth and represents the number two, and a triangle symbolizes human beings and represents the number three. Circles, squares and triangles have been used as various symbolic meanings both in the east and west and constitute the framework of Hanbok construction while connoting the Cheonbu concept and symbolism of the Cosmo-tree. From this point of view, the unity of human beings and heaven in Cheonbugyeong is symbolically inherent in Hanbok. Therefore, Hanbok with the basic framework of circles, squares and triangles can be considered a positive creation that created a composition principle of body-nature-clothing.