• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.57-69
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the costume represented In human clay figures of ancient Shilla dynasty. The results of this study could be summarized as follows: 1. Horse-riding clay figures of Gumryoung tomb. At first, human-A wears a brimed-triangular hat, a Jacket, a checked pants. The brimed-triangular hat is decorated with bird-feather shape. Besides, a jacket is tied with a waist belt, and the waist belt is connected with a shoulder belt and a squared block of back. Also round bells are decorated 15 in the hat, 4 In connection points of the waist belt and the shoulder belt, and 13 in the squared block of back. Human-B wears a hairband type hempen hood, a Jacket, a pants with vertical stripes. and something is rounded from right shoulder to left side. It is one of the symbols as a shaman. 2. Other clay figures. The hats examined from other clay figures are \circled1 Triangular hat, \circled2Hat decorated with bird-feather shape, \circled3 Brined hat and \circled4 Hairband type hempen hood. Next, six kinds of hair styles examined are \circled1 a topknot, \circled2 a slanted topknots, \circled3 two topknots on both sides, \circled4(round) chignon, \circled5 hair tied at the top and plastered down, and tile last, \circled6 ponytailed style on both sides. The costume examined is a jacket and a pants.

• Earthquakes and Structures
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.275-283
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• 2018

Seismic strengthening is essential for existing bridge piers which are deficient to resist the earthquake. The concrete and CFRP jackets with a bottom-anchoring method are used to strengthen railway bridge piers with low reinforcement ratio. Quasi-static tests of scaled down model piers are performed to evaluate the seismic performance of the original and strengthened bridge pier. The fracture characteristics indicate that the vulnerable position of the railway bridge pier with low reinforcement ratio during earthquake is the pier-footing region and shows flexural failure mode. The force-displacement relationships show that the two strengthening techniques using CFRP and concrete jackets can both provide a significant improvement in load-carrying capacity for railway bridge piers with low reinforcement ratio. It is clear that the bottom-anchoring method by using planted steel bars can guarantee the CFRP and concrete jackets to work jointly with original concrete piers Furthermore, it can be found that the use of CFRP jacket offers advantages over concrete jacket in improving the energy dissipation capacity under lateral cyclic loading. Therefore, the seismic strengthening techniques by the use of CFRP and concrete jackets provide alternative choices for the large numbers of existing railway bridge piers with low reinforcement ratio in China.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.454-467
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• 2015

Reflecting the consumer's desire to look young, the "down-aging" trend, which blurs the distinctions between age groups, is the latest craze in the fashion market. The popularity of this trend made brand identities similar, resulting in customers becoming more interested in segmented notions of fashion (in terms of the story, design, high-quality material, etc.) regarding the product, and in particular, focus has become oriented to the fitness to the human body. In this sense, the researcher aimed to develop the prototype of a slim-fit tailored jacket that fits the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s well. For the purpose of this research, slim-fit tailored jackets from existing brands were collected and analyzed, and a subsequent wearability test was conducted based on the standard somatotype of women in their 30s. The research patterns were prototype of the developed slim fit tailored jacket are bust size of 3.8 cm, waist of 7 cm, and hip size of 3.8 cm. Then the research patterns were selected to develop the prototype of a properly fitting slim-fit tailored jacket. As outlined above, the development of a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype for the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s was conducted by solving the fitness issues of existing brands in order to produce properly fitting jackets that satisfy consumers.

• 공업화학
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.596-602
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• 2020

점/접착제 생산 공정은 배합 과정에서 mineral insulated (MI) cable을 통해 내부 용액을 76 ℃까지 가열 및 혼합 후 제품 출하를 위해 30 ℃까지 상온 냉각을 진행한다. MI cable을 이용한 반응기의 경우, 냉각시간이 평균 10 h 소요되어 생산효율이 낮은 문제점이 있지만, jacketed vessel을 설치하면 위의 문제를 효과적으로 해결할 수 있다. 그러나 jacketed vessel의 종류가 다양해 jacket을 설치하기 전, 배합 공정조건에 적합한 종류를 찾아야 한다. 본 연구에서는 생산효율에 영향을 주는 냉각시간을 최소화하기 위해 computational fluid dynamics (CFD)를 이용하여 jacket 종류에 따른 냉각시간을 비교해 공정에 적합한 jacketed vessel 모델을 개발하고, 점/접착제 생산 공정에 최적화된 jacketed vessel을 설계하였다. 연구 결과, jacket의 높이가 같을 때, half-pipe coil jacket보다 plain jacket의 냉각 성능이 32.7% 더 우수하였고, plain jacket에 60% spiral baffle을 설치하여 냉각 공정에 이용할 경우 냉각시간을 80.4%, 작업시간을 25.1% 단축 가능하다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.90-99
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to compare female members's jumper and jacket preferences for five different styles of Fall/Winter jumpers and jackets, divided into three age groups(65-69 yr, 70-74 yr, over 75 yr). Total 324 senior females, ages over 65 in Kimhae and Busan area were chosen for the study. The major findings of this study were as follow; For the age group, 65 to 69, in the jumper category, it was important for them to look slender and sophisticated. Jumpers with quilted thin fabrics, jumpers with hooded jumpers zippers, and short chinese collar in the short blouson style were preferred in the age group. Jacket needed to be designed in A-line styles, short or long with one or two buttons and of various length. For those in the 70 to 74 age group, the jumper designs need to be tidy and clean with box-shaped pockets. In addition, various formal style jumpers with increasing length up to hip lines. For jackets, it is necessary to increase the number of designs with convertible collars with three button in front, elegantly covered pocket, long enough to cover the hip line. For those in the age group of 75 or over, it was essential for jumpers and jackets to be of increasing length in box style, loose-fit with, front-closure or snap buttons and out pockets that allows one to put their hands in the jumper. They preferred jacket length down to the hip-line, wing collar for jumpers, tailored collar for jackets more than the other age groups.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2010

This study is focused on the elucidation of efficient and correct marking methods by comparing and analyzing marker efficiency depending on the marking job condition such as interval of checking-pattern and marker orientation using woman's Jacket and Slacks. Research Method intended to compare the marking efficiency of Jacket and Slacks, check-less and check- patterned materials with the intervals of $1.5{\times}1.5cm$ and $5{\times}5cm$ were selected. First, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on check-pattern interval, regardless of the direction of marker position, single-item makers and set-item makers, the efficiency of check-less materials was higher than those of check-patterned materials and increasing the intervals decreased marking efficiency and vice versa. Marking efficiency of Slacks was less influenced than marking efficiency of Jacket by check-pattern interval. Second, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on the direction of marker position, regardless of check-pattern interval and number of maker pieces, the efficiency of nap-up-and-down position was higher than those of nap-one-way position. Third, the marking efficiency of single-item was more effective than one of set-item in all working condition except nap-one-way position in checkless materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.1069-1078
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• 2001

Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements in a given size chart. The original pattern is graded and laid out for cutting before mass production. This study tried to classify body types for pattern grading of jacket by applying a concept of "drop"defined as the difference between chest girth and waist girth and the difference between hip girth and waist girth for pants. Data were collected through the stratified sampling method. 138 subjects were selected out of 1,290 subjects of our sample population. Findings were as follows : 1) For pattern grading of jacket, the cell with the chest girth of 96cm and the waist girth of 87cm had the highest frequency rate and body type was 87H type and the coverage of this type was 9.52%. Then, the size specification 87-96 was the center of distribution. H type had seven ones such as 72H, 75H, 78H, 81H, 84H. 87H and 90H. H type had 33 observations and frequency ratio of 26.19%. Same types could be graded up and down from the reference size for the age group. And this reference size became to the starting point for developing the grading system. 2) For pattern grading of pants, fatty types, H10 type had six ones such as 80H10. 82H10, 84H10, 86H10, 88H10 and 90H10. H10 type had 28 observations and frequency ratio of 20.29%. H6 type had 6 ones such as 84H6, 86H6, 88H6, 90H6. 92H6 and 94H6. H6 type had 27 observations and frequency ratio of 19.57%. If lower body types were classified as same ones, these types could be graded up and down proportionately.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.210-214
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• 2009

Cave 79 of Kumtura grottoes, is the best preserved cave, which has an important meaning for research on Uighur costume. This paper is intended to analyze the costume characteristics of female donors in Cave 79 by comparing image materials between Dunhuang murals and other murals in Xinjiang province. In Cave 79, female donor wears red robe with tight sleeve, whose collar is crescent-shaped decorated. Two different opinions are upheld for this decoration. One regards this as the turn-down collar, while the other believes this as decoration on V-neckline. Red robe is quite common in female donors of Xinjiang and Dunhuang murals and a female in fresco is wearing a crown in a triangle red headwear style, regarded as red silk and drooping at head. Female donors wear an extra coat, kame hair clasp, red jacket, light-colored high-waist skirt with a long-tail waistband, and tangerine Pibo (silk ribbon) with scattered small flowers. All these costume styles are commonly-used by Han females. The kame headwear is also the common ornament for Han females and the female's hairstyle is in cone shape on head by a white kame. Current costumes are similar but not completely same.