• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

South Asian's growing obsession with fair skin has made the cosmetic industry into a multibillion-dollar trade over the last decade alone. With reports of toxicity and potential mutagenicity of conventional skin lightening agents, cosmetic industries are looking for plant-based skin whitening formulations. In this review some potential depigmentation agents from South Asian region are discussed, including their historical background, biochemical characteristics and recent findings on their depigmenting activity.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.30 no.7
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• pp.1619-1621
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• 2009

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.17 no.10
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• pp.1585-1590
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• 2007

Although a number of melanogenesis inhibitors have recently been reported and used as cosmetic additives, none is completely satisfactory, leaving a need for novel skin-depigmenting agents. Thus, to develop a novel skin depigmenting agent from natural sources, the inhibition of melanogenesis by Chinese plants was evaluated. A methanolic extract of Nigella glandulifera Freyn was found to inhibit the melanin synthesis of murine B16F10 melanoma cells by 43.7% and exhibited a low cytotoxicity (8.1%) at a concentration of $100\;{\mu}g/ml$. Thus, to identify the melanogenesis-inhibiting mechanism, the inhibitory activity towards tyrosinase, the key enzyme of melanogenesis, was further evaluated, and the results showed inhibitory effects on the activity of intracellular tyrosinase yet not on mushroom tyrosinase. Finally, to isolate the compounds with a hypopigmenting capability, activity-guided isolation was performed, and Dioctyl phthalate identified as inhibiting melanogenesis.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.174-183
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• 2003

To obtain effective and safe topical depigmenting agents, we synthesized hydroxybenzoates, alkoxybenzoates, and 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamate containing a thymol moiety and screened then for high-level inhibitory activity against melanin synthesis. Among them, 5-methyl-2-(methylethyl)phenyl (2Ε)-3-(3,4,5-trimethoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (Melasolv)$^{TM}$ 4h, showed the most potent depigmenting effect ($IC_{50}$/ = 10$\mu$M) with low cytotoxicity ($IC_{50}$/ = 200$\mu$M). To find the inhibition mechanism of our candidate, various in vitro tests were performed such as DPPH assay, tyrosinase activity in mushroom or in culture cell and expression of tyrosinase, TRP-l and TRP-2. The result of this study suggested that 4h inhibited melanin synthesis by reducing the expression of tyrosinase and TRP-l at the transcriptional level in melan-a melanocytes.s.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.183-188
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• 2008

Initial screening assay for depigmenting agents includes in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay and antioxidant assay. Based on this screening result, melanin synthesis in melanocyte, in screened samples, is further measured. Measuring cellular melanin needs time, human resource, and skills. Therefore initial screening method should be reliable. We examined, 34 Chinese herbs, correlated the screening assay methods with cellular melanin. No reliable relationship was observed between factors, indicating the limitation in the use of these assays, probably due to the complexicity of melanogenesis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.13-16
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• 2005

For the high-throughput-screening system (HTS) of depigmenting agents using a protein chip, effects of oligonucleotide-inhibitor sequence on the binding of Mitf protein to E box of MC1R was investigated. The sequence of oligonucletide-inhibitor affected the binding of the target DNA to Mitf, depending on the location of the sequence variation in the inhibitor nucleotide. The oligonucletide-inhibitor that changed the CATGTG sequence didn't show enough inhibition of the target DNA to Mitf, whereas significant inhibition was observed when the sequence outside the CATGTG was changed. This result indicated that CATCTG is crucial sequence for the binding of Mitf to I-box which initiates the transcription of pigmenting genes.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.475-478
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• 2009

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.129-139
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• 2007

Many modalities of treatment for acquired skin hyperpigmentation are available including chemical agents or physical therapies, but none are completely satisfactory. The ideal depigmenting compound should have a potent. rapid and selective bleaching effect on hyperactivated melanocytes, carry no short- or long-term side-effects and lead to a permanent removal of undesired pigment. acting at one or more steps of the pigmentation process. Depigmentation can be achieved by regulating (i) the transcription and activity of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2), and/or peroxidase; (ii) the uptake and distribution of melanosomes in recipient keratinocytes and (iii) melanin and melanosome degradation and turnover of pigmented keratinocytes. One of the interesting point for development of skin whitening agent is Mitf(Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor). Mitf belongs to the basic helix-loop-helix-zip family of trabscription factors and it is crucial as it regulates both melanocyte proliferation as well as melanogenesis and is the major regulator of tyrosinase and the related enzymes (TRPs), as well as many melanosome structural proteins such as pMel17. Recently, we developed MITF-down-regulating agents from natural and synthetic sources, which have anti-melanogenic effect on in vitro and in vivo. We suggested that potent MITF-down regulating agents might be used for skin whitening cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.479-483
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• 2004

An attempt was made to develop a proteinchip for screening of MITF (microphthalmia transcription factor) inhibitor. Binding of MITF to E-box causes transcription of several pigmenting genes including tyrosinase gene. We investigated binding of MITF and its DNA binding site (E-box) using a protein-DNA chip with various detection methods including flurorescence (Cyt3). SPR (surface plasmon resonance) and SPRi (surface plasmon resonance imaging). A fusion protein (MITF-Maltose Binding Protein) was attached on the glass plate by chemical modification. An inhibitory synthetic DNA oligomer, artificially designed based on the E-box sequence, inhibited the binding of MITF and E-box. These results showed the potentials of flurorescence-based MITF protein chip as a microarray for high throughput screening (HTS) system of depigmenting agents.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.662-670
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• 2005

Recently many efforts were focused to understand the mechanical insights of melanogenesis to develop the agents for hyper-pigmentation and hypo-pigmentation. In the melanin bio-synthetic pathway, tyrosinase is the rate limiting enzyme, and ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone(MSH) stimulates melanogenesis and enhances the melanin synthesis and the tyrosinase activity. The author has analyzed the effects of Biota Orientalis Folium on the basal melanogenic activities of B16 mouse melanoma cells, and on the ${\alpha}$-MSH or tyrosinase-induced melanogenesis. Biota Orientalis Folium alone markedly suppressed melanin content and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. The decrease of cell propagation was observed in B16 cells treated with 200${\mu}$g/ml dose of Biota Orientalis Folium, indicating that Biota Orientalis Folium-induced depigmenting effect was caused by inhibition of melanin synthesis, not due to destruction of B16 cells. Pretreatment of the cells with Biota Orientalis Folium also suppressed the increase of ${\alpha}$-MSH (10 nM) induced melanin content and tyrosinase activity. Biota Orientalis Folium inhibited the revelation of ${\alpha}$-MSH induced tyrosinase protein and tyrosinase related protein and mRNA of tyrosinase in B16 melanoma cell. These results suggest that Biota Orientalis Folium inhibits melanogenesis and abrogates ${\alpha}$-MSH and tyrosinase-induced melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells.