• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.374-387
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop up-cycling fashion design methods centered on discarded denim material for the study of original up-cycling design methods. Up-cycling fashion design work was developed using digital clothing technology. This is a recent hot topic among sustainable fashion design methods. Up-cycling fashion design expression methods (categorized as dismantlement, collages, dépaysement, grafting, weaving, and tearing) were centered on design methods. These methods create various three-dimensional modeling effects in planar forms, whereby five pieces can be applied to the fabric and digitally produced. The results are as follows: First, the use of discarded denim fabric for the development of up-cycling fashion design pieces enabled the recycling of existing resources, provided solutions to environmental pollution problems, and provided expansion opportunities for design processes for sustainable fashion products that expand the design value of denim products and their utility. Second, new eco-friendly fashion designs that attempt to achieve diversity in modern fashion trends could be presented through formative contemporary fashion produced by up-cycling work products. Third, up-cycling fashion design work is expected to provide opportunities for eco-friendly fashion design methods. This will expand the value of sustainable fashion design by recycling simple waste materials through the use of three-dimensional digital clothing technology and further through the presentation of expanded life cycles that extend product planning, production, and life cycles.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-117
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• 2023

Defect detection is one of the key factors in fabric quality control. To improve the speed and accuracy of denim fabric defect detection, this paper proposes a defect detection algorithm based on cascading feature extraction architecture. Firstly, this paper extracts these weight parameters of the pre-trained VGG16 model on the large dataset ImageNet and uses its portability to train the defect detection classifier and the defect recognition classifier respectively. Secondly, retraining and adjusting partial weight parameters of the convolution layer were retrained and adjusted from of these two training models on the high-definition fabric defect dataset. The last step is merging these two models to get the defect detection algorithm based on cascading architecture. Then there are two comparative experiments between this improved defect detection algorithm and other feature extraction methods, such as VGG16, ResNet-50, and Xception. The results of experiments show that the defect detection accuracy of this defect detection algorithm can reach 94.3% and the speed is also increased by 1-3 percentage points.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.81-99
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• 2016

The Coptic tapestry has been carried out since the ancient Egypt. The aim of this study is to revive the Coptic tapestry and its cultural, aesthetic influence on the modern denim fashion. Denims have been developed as one of trendy casual wear to symbolize youth and worn by various age ranges. It evolved into a fashion icon due to its ability to change with every social and cultural evolution. In this study, I presented many designs inspired from the Coptic tapestry textiles. The Coptic tapestry style can be a vital starting point for new ideas for decorating denims. A survey has been conducted for two groups of adult females. The survey results clarified that our designs were approved by the younger group than the older one. I hope this study contributes to developing designs inspired by the past artifacts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.841-851
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the backstaining generated during cellulase treatment for indigo-dyed denim. The results were as follows. 1. High generating conditions of the backstaining were as same as best conditions for cellulose activity (temperature at 6$0^{\circ}C$, pH at about 4.5~5.5, treatment time at 40 min. and enzyme concentration at 2g/l). And also, liquor ratio, sample weight and repeated-use cycle of liquor had influenced on the backstaining. 2. The backstaining was decreased about 30~40% when various additives, that is, surfactant, anti-backstaining agent (C.M.C) and softners were added. 3. A application of image processing on the backstaining evaluation was more effective than method by reflectance, particullarly in out of level fabrics. In image analysis, the backstainings were measured by histogram between 256 gray levels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1139-1148
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• 1999

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The semantic differential scale established using the database collected from university students. Analyzing the subjective rating by common factor analysis with oblimin rotation five factors expressing the hand were induced. Factor one was the surface property related to the surface roughness or softness Factor two was the durability which was related to the compactness and bearing strength Factor three was the sense of weight which was related to the thickness and weight. The moisture related properties and the sense of shape recovery were the forth and fifth factors respectively. the evaluations on the surface property weight and moisture related properties were similar by men and women However the shape recovery and the durability were evaluated differently. Surface and weight related properties were important factors judging the hand of fabrics by both group.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.10
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• pp.133-142
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• 2000

The subjective hand and preference of enzyme hydrolyzed denim fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age of evaluators, the more sensitive their feeling. As the age decreased, evaluators felt fabrics become flossy and soft surface property is smooth, flexible, warm, refined. They didn't catch the sense of durability, moisture related property and sense of shape recovery. The lower the age, the fabric was more preferred. Women were more sensitive and consistent than men.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.52-62
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• 2012

This study researched the jeans street fashion for young men looked like 20s and 30s in Seoul, and analyzed jeans by silhouette by fit and color by washing. The photos were of jeans from the waist to the bottom; and among a total of 1,159 images, 847 images that could be analyzed were selected and used for the analysis. From the images used in the analysis, the jeans fits were categorized according to silhouette and color that were used for the visual selection. As a result, young men preferred fashion jeans like slim or skinny jeans. Most of the tight fitting skinny and slim jeans were slim baggy style jeans, like low waist & long rise with a low back york, which was a key trendy pants style. The jeans color analysis by washing finish showed that dark jeans were most frequently, most of the dark jeans had the original denim color based on the non or normal wash techniques. It is hoped that the results of this study can be used as basic data for the development of designs for jeans brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.975-982
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• 1996

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properites in denim fabrics for slacks during repeated shear and tensile deformation by analysing the change in the basic dynamic properties of fabrics on the basic of experiments to obtain the basic data necessary to measure their fatigue. In addition, this study was carried out by allowing these denim fabrics at market to go through the repeated deformation under such different loads as 500 gf/cm2 and 1000 gf/cm2 by using a simulated fatigue tester, by calculating both dynamic properties and hand value (HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and then by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows: 1 The fatigue phenomenon of dynamic properties was remarkably shown by the repeated shear and tensile deformation, while the increase of hysterical plastic substances was also remarkable in these shearing and bending properties. 2. The elasticity values of tensile, bending and compression properties, such as, B and G were reduced: whereas RT and RC values increased. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value also showed that those fabrics became soft in relation with the change of all dynamic properties, and that their performance was also change to flexible hand value. 4. TRhe degree of fatigue was also shown by the loads given to the repeated deformation. It was shown that the fatigue was higher for the tensile load of 1000 gf/cm3 than did the standard load of 500 gf/cm3 It is necessary, therefore, to consider the load in accordance with their usage when examining the fatigue phenomenon with respect to the dynamic properties of clothing materials. 5. The loads were nearly not influenced by the change in the general hand value tended to show a little of increase with the increase of fatigue, Based on those results, it seems that the fatigue phenomonon is related to the loads given to the repeated deformation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.971-976
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• 2013

This study provides insight into current social media influences and purchasing power of the young generation in that the size of both of these demographic groups will impact the apparel companies and retail market for the predictable future Denim apparel companies are aware of the discretionary spending power of the Y and Z Generations. The characteristics of current teens are so similar to college-age individuals in that they have grown up with digital technology and they prefer to communicate via social networking sites. Retailers have utilized these social media platforms in order to capture the attention of the generations. Traditionally marketing campaigns have differentiated between teens and the college-age population. However, the teens actually have larger spending power and more discretionary income. A survey consisted of 32 questions pertaining to Internet media influences, influence of people, and decision factors on decisionmaking related to purchasing selection. A random sampling of 163 females responded to a set of questionnaires. Teens, like college students desire to make their own decisions when they select and purchase denim jeans. Overall 40% of them wanted to make their own decisions when purchasing their jeans, however, a significant number are influenced by their friend's opinions (34%) and the opinions of family members (15%). However, celebrities (10%) had the least influence on their decisions. Teens, like colleges students make decisions based on the same decision factors: fit (63%), cost (23%), brand (10%) and color (2%). The most important factor in determining preference was "fit".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of cotton fabrics by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and preference of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumers taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of enzymatic hydrolysis on the properties of cotton fabrics were also evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follow; As the weight loss increased, evaluators thought that fabrics become finer, smoother, softer, warmer and more refined, and the sense of durability is sleeker and weaker, and the sense of weight is more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner. They didnt catch the change of moisture related properties according to the rate of weight loss. They also thought fabrics became more elastic, and less wrinklier as the weight loss increased. As the weight loss increased, the fabric was more preferred. The limited weight loss which changes the preference from \"dislike\" to \"like\" was 12.87%. The most preferred fabric was that with 12.87% of weight loss. It is supposed that the preference of fabric was related to the terms such as \"sum-se-ha-da\"(섬세하다), \"mai-ku-rup-da\"(매끄럽다), \"yoo-yon-ha-da\"(유연하다), \"too-bak-ji-an-da\"(투박하지 않다), \"chom-chom-ha-da\"(촘촘하다), \"gil-ki-da\"(질기다), \"kun-juk-goe-ri-ji-an-da\"(끈적거리지 않다), \"ku-kim-i-ka-ji-an-nun-da\"(구김이 가지 않는다).