• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.32-44
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• 2006

Denim has been one of the most favored clothing item among young people regardless of regional difference. This study compared the styling of women's denim fashion in two Asian metro-cities, Seoul and Beijing, in order to understand how differ the fashion taste of both cities. Data was collected by taking photos of young women who wear denim clothing at the main streets of downtowns or famous shopping areas of both cities from the July of 2004 till the April of 2005. A total of 524 photos(Seoul 242, and Beijing 282) were put into content analysis. Results showed that there were several similarities and differences in denim styling between two cities in terms of the most widely worn denim items and the coordinate items, and the favored colors, silhouette, details of denim pants and the coordinate items. In Seoul, women favored denim look with little detail, fitted silhouette, and in more formal image. A few denim styles prevailed in each season which reflect current denim fashion trends. Meanwhile a wide variety of denim styles were found at Beijing without dominant denim trends, which means Beijing women put more emphasis on personal expression of their fashion taste instead of just following fashion trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.852-862
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• 2007

This study was to investigate the physical properties and the external characteristics of denim fabrics(100% cotton non-spun denim, 98% cotton/2% polyurethane spun denim) such as tensile strength, thickness and weight, flex stiffness, surface color and shrinkage. The results of the study were as follows. After examining the change of external characteristics of before and after washing finishing for denim fabrics, denim with bio washing had increased pliability compared to denim without washing finishing but the pliability of the denim did not increase according to the intensity or frequency of washing. The luminance change according to washing finishing was high in the order of bio stone bleach washing, bio stone washing, bio washing and denim without washing finishing and the surface color became brighter in accordance with the increase of intensity and frequency of washing finishing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.107-117
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• 2018

Nettle fiber, a sustainable fiber, was applied to the fabrication of denim to identify changes in textile appearance and formation. For the weaving of nettle denim, nine specimens, distinguished by three kinds of composite use of nettle fiber and three stages of fabrication processes, were used. The kinetic characteristics of the nine specimens were measured by the KES-FB system, and the images of the specimens of finished denim textiles, captured with a CCD Camera, were analyzed. In terms of the extensibility (EM) of nettle denim, all specimens showed post-processing increase, thereby suggesting an easy transformation of the textile as a source material for denim fabric. The effects of washing on the woven formation of denim were also identified. The geometric roughness (SMD), the problematic property of bast-fiber-like nettle fiber, was found to be decreased by washing. In terms of the bending rigidity (B) of the textile, the post-processing shrinking percentage of elastic nettle denim was found to decrease; all specimens that underwent bio-washing only also manifested that post-processing elasticity increased. To improve the draping of nettle denim, a mixed spinning together with washing were found to be advantageous. In terms of the shear stiffness (G), which is closely associated with the appearance of clothes, the formation of textile was improved regardless of the types of processing, including bio-washing and bleach washing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2011

As the development of denim products using new differentiated materials plays an important role regardless of their target age groups, there is an increasing need for the development of premium denim designs for senior women using various materials. As part of the strategy to develop such a design for the senior generation, a market survey was performed regarding commercially available premium denim products in the market, and the current trends in the denim market were researched and analyzed to make use of the results in design development. In addition, a differentiated material, hybrid yarn using conjugated dyeing (HYCD) was applied to use several washing techniques capable of highlighting the unique features of denim clothing. The design of four items including a jacket, vest, capri pants and long pants were suggested. These items were differentiated from other products by emphasizing their details such as stitching and pockets. In light of the current consumer trend to select denim jeans on the basis of their fashion-ability (e.g., silhouette or color) rather than practicality or price, it is considered meaningful to develop high value added, premium jean products for the senior generation using diverse materials and details. At the same time, performing further studies designed to demonstrate the stability and reliability of the developed products through consumers' comparative assessment is required.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.55-64
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• 2017

This study was performed to help the denim fabric planning which reflects the sensibility preference of university students. Objective characteristics, like color properties and mechanical properties, in 8 denim fabrics (5 cotton 100% fabrics and 3 cotton/polyurethane blended fabrics) were evaluated. And the color preference, subjective sensation and tactile preference of denim fabrics were investigated among the university students. The effect of color preference and tactile preference of denim fabrics on the purchase preference of denim slacks was also examined. Color preference of denim fabrics showed a significant difference according to the kind of denim fabrics. University students preferred purple blue denim fabrics that was measured low $-b^*$ value and low $C^*$ value among the color properties of denim fabrics. Among the mechanical properties of denim fabrics, surface property like MMD, MIU and SMD as well as shear property like 2HG5 were important elements affecting subjective sensation. While, tactile preferences showed a significant difference according to the fabrics. The tactile preferences of cotton/polyurethane blended denim fabrics was highly preferred, and that of heavy 100% cotton denim fabric was lowly preferred. And the subjective sensation affecting tactile preferences were in order of smoothness, softness, lightness. It is concluded that the color preference and tactile preference influenced upon the purchase preference of denim slacks, and color preference had a bigger effect upon the purchase preference.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.65-70
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• 1977

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relation of attitudes and usage of denim cloth-ing to masculinity femininity, attitudes toward women's role, and four aspects of clothing interests. Masculinity-femininity was assessed by The Fe Scale of the California Psychological Inventory. Attitudes toward women's role was measured by selected items from The Inventory of Feminine Values and The Sex Ideology Scale. Measures of attitudes toward denim clothing consisted of: 1) attitudes regarding practicality and youth symbol, 2) possession, and 3) frequency of wearing denim clothing. Four aspects of clothing interests in general were assessed by statements dealing with choice of design, conformity-individuality, fashion and practicality in clothing. The sample consisted of 388 students in Sookmyung Women's University in Seoul, Korea. The data, collected by means of a self-administered questionnaire, were analyzed by correlation. The results indicate that: 1) Masculinity-femininity was related to youth symbol attitudes, possession, and frequency of wear-ing denim clothing. 2) Attitudes toward women's role was related to practicality attitudes, and frequency of wearing denim clothing. 3) Practicality attitudes toward denim clothing was related to conformity-individuality, and practicality in clothing. 4) Youth symbol attitudes toward denim clothing was related to fashion in clothing. 5) Possession of denim clothing was related to fashion and the choice of design in clothing. 6) Frequency of wearing denim clothing was related to the choice of design, and conformity-individuality in clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.75-86
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• 2004

This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.