• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.15-20
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• 1997

Changes in antioxidative substances-sesamol, sesamin and sesamolin - and mineral contents of sesame oil during refining processes have been studied to investigate the oxidative stability of oils during the storage at $70^{\circ}C$. Fe, Cu, Mg and Zn were nearly removed from the oil by the degumming process. During storage, the changes of total volatile contents in crude and degummed sesame oil were not noticeable but those in alkali-refined and deodorized sesame oil were increased at early period of the storage. The increases of hexanal and pentanal were most noticeable and their concentration was increased markedly in alkali-refined, bleached and deodorized sesame oil at early period of the storage. During refining processes and storage, sesamin was relatively stable but the content of sesamolin was decreased. The content of sesamol was decreased until alkali-refining process but increased during a bleaching process. The content of sesamolin tended to decrease with increasing of sesamol during storage.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.147-151
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• 1994

This study was carried out investigate the characteristics of Habutae and Chiffon woven with silk and polyester(S/P) compound yarn. The S/P compound yarn could be produced by the automatic reeling machine with attachment of air jetting device, polyester yarn guider and tension control apparatus. The surface structure, tensile property and dyeing fastness of S/P compound fabric were examined for the fabric properties. Electron microscopy revealed that most part of S/P compound yarn was well interlaced and some silk part of compound yarn were hidden by polyester on an examination of surface of chiffon fabric. By the one bath and two step dyeing of disperse and acidic dyes, the colour fastness of S/P compound fabrics were 4 grade above. The tenacity and initial modulus of the finished S/P compound fabric were lower than those of grey and degummed fabrics, but reversed in elongation.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 1991

The shrinkages and physical properties of silk yarn were studied on the effect of treatment concentration, time and temperature with various neutral salts. The degummed silk yarn was shrunk about 35 percent by highly concentrated solution of Ca(NO3)2 on conditions of S.G.(special gravity) 1.45 at 9$0^{\circ}C$ or S. G. 1.46 at 8$0^{\circ}C$. About 40 percent of silk yarn was contracted in length by the treatment of CaCl2 solution on conditions of S. G. 1.33 at 9$0^{\circ}C$ for 5 mins. or at 85$^{\circ}C$ for 10 mins. By treating the concentrated solution of LiBr the silk yarn showed about 40 percent of shrinkage on a conditions of S. G. 1.38, $25^{\circ}C$ 24hrs. The physical properties of salt-treated silk yarn could be significantly changed with shrinkage variations. There were some differences in shrinkages between different type of salts. However, it was observed that generally the tenacity was decreased and breaking elongation increased as the shrinkage increased. The bulkiness of salt-treated silk yarn was increased by 110 to 120 percent compared with untreated yarn.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Eco-friendly and health-functional clothing is now becoming the target of the worldwide hot trends. The purpose of this study is to develop an eco-friendly textiles to decrease environmental pollution and to be harmless for human health by investigating how the natural chorangak liquid treatment affects the changes of mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics according to different treatment conditions. Treatment was varied with various temperatures ($85^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$, $95^{\circ}C$) for 90 seconds after degumming. The results were as follows: 1) The natural chorangak liquid is the most effective at the ratio of glacial acid 200ml with eggshell 20g minimizing the time limit and sludge reduction. Its treatment of silk fabrics is optimized at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 seconds with 25% conc. after degumming when considering tenacity and elongation. 2) After the treatment, tenacity and elongation of specimen are increased compared with those of degummed silk fabrics. 3) After analyzing the effect of the treatment on the characteristic values of basic mechanical properties of silk fabrics, mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface) are overall improved. The properties of thickness and weight are increased as well. 4) Based on the clear analysis on effects of the treatment on the mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics, the level of THV was enhanced from good to excellent. Therefore, chorangak liquid can be utilized satisfactorily as a new finishing agent for developing eco-friendly textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.9-16
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• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.754-764
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• 2010

Most silk fabrics are produced only after the degumming process to make the best use of the properties and have restricted silk processing that do not hinder their performance. However, considering the highly increased preference for natural fibers and the shortage of raw silk, high-quality upgraded silk product functions are required by the development of a processing technology and a good design. This study analyzes the changes with the samples by the functional finish such as softening finishing, wash and wear, tannin weighting by measuring the objective hand of scoured silk and three finished ones using KES-FB. As a result, the change of objective hand of finished silk fabrics that improves functionality was analyzed and compared. The increase of KOSHI after the finish became stiffer show that the silk fabric samples are appropriate for summertime clothes with the retention of a certain clothing climate for the body. The stiffness of finished fabrics for the normal had a closer relationship with the density of fabrics than the type of finishing. The samples (after the softening finishes) maintain better elasticity according to the properties of the softener and the finishing agent. Although the specimens of this study were thin fabrics, their elasticity against compression increased after the softening finishes and became softer than degummed silk. The surface properties of georgette were changed by all types of finishing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.28-43
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• 2013

Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.

• Membrane Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.375-380
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• 2007

To recover sericin protein from by-product in silk production process, a polyethersulfone hollow fiber ultra-filtration membrane module was used. The soap in the degummed solution was precipitated by calcium chloride. The influence of membrane module of submerged and external type on membrane fouling was investigated. The effect of soap and protein on the membrane fouling in the external type membrane module was also studied. The removal of soap resulted in decreasing the membrane fouling. It was shown that the protein and the membrane were affected by the soap.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.66-68
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• 1987

The qualitative and quantitative analyses of phospholipids in chloroform-methanol extracted crude and hexane extracted deodorized soybean oils were carried out by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). The phosphorus contents in hexane extracted crude, degummed, refiend, bleached and deodorized soybean oil were 510, 120, 5, 1.4 and 1 ppm, respectively. The chloroform-methanol extracted crude soybean oil had 800 ppm phosphorus. The phospholipids found in crude oil were phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylserine and phosphatidic acid. Only phosphatidylchonine and phosphatidylethanolamine were detected in the deodorized soybean oil. The HPLC method described in this report can separate and detect individual phospholipids in soybean oil at 0.1 ppm level in 30 min.