• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
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• 제20권11호
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• pp.1950-1960
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• 2006

Based on Banach fixed point theorem, a method to calculate nonlinear superposition for three interacting Stokes' waves is proposed in this paper. A mathematical formulation for the nonlinear superposition in deep water and some numerical solutions were investigated. The authors carried out the numerical study with three progressive linear potentials of different wave numbers and succeeded in solving the nonlinear wave profiles of their three wave-interaction, that is, using only linear wave potentials, it was possible to realize the corresponding nonlinear interacting wave profiles through iteration of the method. The stability of the method for the three interacting Stokes' waves was analyzed. The calculation results, together with Fourier transform, revealed that the iteration made it possible to predict higher-order nonlinear frequencies for three Stokes' waves' interaction. The proposed method has a very fast convergence rate.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1991

천수 및 굴절현상을 포함한 이산형 파랑모형을 구성하였다. Inoue의 원천함수와 Gadd의 전파기법을 사용하여 먼저 심해조건에 대한 수치실험을 통해 여타모형과 비교분석하였다. 비교적 빠른 에너지의 성장률을 보여주었고, 비대칭풍장의 영향을 잘 반영하였다. 풍장에 대한 다양한 반응형태에도 불구하고 전반적인 에너지의 분포는 여타모형과 같이 좋은 결과를 보여주었다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제13권2호통권32호
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• pp.116-128
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• 1999

A deep water wave prediction model applicable to the East Sea is presnted. This model incorporates rediative transter of energy specrum, atmospheric input form the wind, nonlinear interaction, and energy dissipation by white capping. The propagation scheme by Gadd shows satisfactory results and the characteristics of the nonlinear interaction is simulated well by discrete interaction approximatiion. The application of the model to the sea around the Korean Peninsula shows reasonable agreement with the observation.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.168-180
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• 2000

In the Part I, the three dimensional model testing with NNW deep water wave direction gave the results such that the occurrence of breaking waves over the peak of Ear-Do caused very small wave height at the structure position. But the measured wave forces were rather greater than the calculated forces based on deep water wave height. Furthermore, It was also perceived that the time series of the forces looked like corresponding to the case that waves were superimposed by an unidirectional current. In the present Part II, the current is presumed to be a flow secondly induced by breaking waves, and an extensive study to clarify the current in a quantitative sense is performed through numerical analysis and hydraulic experiment. The results showed that a strong circulation can surely occur in the vicinity of the structure due to radiation stress differentials given by the breaking waves. It was also recognized that the velocity of the induced current varied with the magnitude of energy dissipation rate introduced in the numerical analysis. The numerical analysis was tuned adjusting the dissipation rate so that the calculated wave field could closely match with the experimental results of Part I. The fluid force (in prototype) for the optimal match showed approximately 2.2% increased over the calculated value based on the deep water wave height (24.6m) whereas the force corresponding to the average of the experimental values showed the increase of about 13.0%.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.313-320
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• 1995

일정 경사를 갖는 해안에 입사하는 같은 주기의 두개의 파열이 교차하는 경우에 대하여 천해역에서 파랑 변형에 대한 수치해석을 수행하였다. 본 모형은 파랑 에너지 평형 및 파랑운동 보존식에 기초하여, 시간과 수심에 대해 평균한 질량 및 수평방향 운동 보존방정식을 반복적으로 계산하여 해를 구하였다. 계산된 결과를 이용하여, 천해역에서 파열이 교차할 때 파고와 평균수위변동에 영향을 주는 입사 파향각 및 심해파고와 같은 매개변수 변화에 따른 파랑 변형에 대해 고찰하였다.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.43-64
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• 1992

This study discusses the interacting with deep water waves approaching from deep water based on the linear wave theory and steep sloping sea bottom floor by the numerical procedure. The results of particular interest are particle velocity and acceleration in x, y, z direction wave height amplification factor reflection coefficient and dimensionless pressure distribution on the steep sloping bottom with respect to the various incident wave angle. The wave loads relative to various bottom slopes, incident wave angles and wave periods on submerged breakwater and pipe are represented in comparison with mild sloping bottom the wave load parameters on the steep sloping bottom seemed to be influenced by variation of incident wave angle. In general the particle velocities and accelerations in x, y, z directions on the steep sloping bottom represented larger value or about two than those on the mild sloping bottom according to incident wave angle. However, the wave height amplification factors did not show distinct difference, but the slight variation with respect to the various incident angle showed on mild sloping bottom. The reflection coefficient increased with respect to increase of the incident angle on the steep sloping bottom the results also indicate that the very steep sloping beach produces a rather substantial amount of reflection as we expected. No significant variation of wave pressure was shown on the steep sloping bottom but it represented a certain amount of variation on the mild sloping bottom according to the various incident wave angle. The analysis at the OTEC site also showed similar results.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

현재 해안공학에 있어서 불규칙파랑을 표현하는 방법으로서 스펙트럼분석법과 파별해석법이 있다. 그 중,스펙트럼해석법은 수심이 깊고 입사파랑의 분산성이 큰 영역에, 파랑분석법은 수심이 얕고 비선형성이 강한 영역 및 석파와 같은 불연속현상을 취급할 경우에 각각적용 되어진다. 그러므로 현지 불규칙파랑장을 계통적으로 취급하기 위해서는 어느 수심영역에서 스펙트럼해석으로부터 파별분석으로 전의해야 할 것인가에 대한 연구가 필요하게 된다. 본 연구는 현지 불규칙파랑의 전파에 의한 변형을 계통적으로 취급할 수 있는 구체적인 방법을 확립하기 위해서 행한 일연의 연구로서 입사파랑의 방향분석이 없는 2차원 불규칙파에 대한 천수을 행하여 스펙트럼해석법의 적용한계, 스펙트럼에서 추정되어지는 파고, 주기의 결합확률분포, 불규칙파의 천수, 석파변형에 대한 파별분석법의 적용한계 등에 대해서 검토한 것이다.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

The objective of this paper is to present an analytical solution in deep water waves and verify the validity of the theory (Shin, 2015). Hence this is a follow-up to Shin (2015). Instead of a variational approach, another approach was considered for a more accurate assessment in this study. The products of two coefficients were not neglected in this study. The two wave profiles from the KFSBC and DFSBC were evaluated at N discrete points on the free-surface, and the combination coefficients were determined for when the two curves pass the discrete points. Thus, the solution satisfies the differential equation (DE), bottom boundary condition (BBC), and the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) exactly. The error in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) is less than 0.003%. The wave theory was simplified based on the assumption tanh $D{\approx}1$ in this paper. Unlike the perturbation method, the results are possible for steep waves and can be calculated without iteration. The result is very simple compared to the 5th Stokes' theory. Stokes' breaking-wave criterion has been checked in this study.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.211-219
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• 2023

This study analyzes the changes in the physical properties of grout by irradiating it with ultrasonic energy and assesses the injectability of the grout into deep rock fractures. The materials used in the research are OPC (Ordinary Portland Cement) and MC (Micro Cement), and are irradiated depending on the water/cement ratio. After irradiating the grout with ultrasonic energy, viscosity, compressive strength, and particle size are analyzed, and the results of the particle size analysis were applied to Nick Barton's theory to evaluate the injectability of the grout into deep rock fractures under those conditions. It was found that the viscosity of the grout decreased after ultrasonic wave irradiation, and the rate of viscosity reduction tended to decrease as the water/cement ratio increased. Additionally, an increase in compressive strength and a decrease in particle size were observed, indicating that the grout irradiated with ultrasonic energy was more effective for injection into rock fractures.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2000

3파 상호작용은 천수파 또는 유한 수심 풍파의 경우에만 중요한 것으로 알려져 왔다. 파랑 성분간의 에너지 전달에 의한 풍파의 성장 관점에서 볼 때 심해에서 3파 상호작용은 4파 상호작용에 비해 별로 중요하지 않다. 그러나, 심해에서도, 특히 풍파 성장의 초기 단계에서는, 3파 상호작용이 중요할 수 있는데, 이는 3파 상호작용이 쇄파에 결정적인 영향을 미치는 파형경사, 수면 위에서의 공기 흐름의 항력, 선박의 항해 등과 밀접한 관계를 가지고 있기 때문이다. 본 연구에서는 일련의 실험실 실험 결과를 제시하고, 이에 대한 bispectrum 분석을 통하여 심해 풍파의 3파 상호작용을 고찰한다. 스펙트럼 첨두 주파수에서의 bicoherence와 파형경사가 거의 정비례하는 것으로 나타나는데, 이는 파봉이 뽀족하고 파곡이 밋밋한, 경사가 큰 파가 3파 상호작용의 결과임을 나타낸다. Bicoherence 및 파형경사 모두가 파랑 성장의 초기 단계에서는 파령에 따라 증가하다가 파랑이 발달함에 따라 다시 작아진다. 파랑 성장의 초기 단계에서 3파 상호작용에 의하여 발달된 스펙트럽 2차 첨두의 에너지가 그 이후에는 4파 상호작용에 의해 주변의 주파수들로 재분배되는 것으로 추측된다.