• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제15권12호
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• pp.495-502
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• 2017

현대도예는 다양한 표현장식기법으로 영역의 확장을 모색하고 있다. 다양한 표현장식기법 중 실루엣기법은 사물 형태표현의 대표적인 표현기법이다. 이는 형태의 외형을 강조하여 표현하고 내부의 형태는 생략하는 방법으로 간략함과 강렬함을 주며 미적 감수성과 상상력을 일깨우는 특성이 있다. 이에 본 연구자는 제작 작품 "도토리 이야기"를 주제로 설정하여 이야기의 핵심적인 이미지와 연관되는 소재들을 실루엣기법으로 디자인하고 이를 벡터그래픽을 활용하여 전사지 제작을 하였고 제작된 전사지는 전사기법으로 도자 접시에 표현하였다. 완성된 작품의 이미지는 보는 이로 하여금 다의적 해석을 유도한다. 따라서 도자 표현장식의 단순한 장식적 기능을 넘은 본 연구가 디지털 정보화 시대에 상상력과 미적 감수성을 일깨우는 도자디자인이 되기를 기대해 본다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.75-87
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• 2017

Sensitivity has become more important in relation to design in the changing social environment and atmosphere. In the West, the concept of aesthetics has long been established but in the East, only in the seventeenth and eighteenth century China did the discussion begin. In Korea, where the first scholarly discussion on aesthetics began around 1929, more and more rigorous and theoretical discussions are emerging now. Korean beauty consists of the beauty of no-artfulness and the beauty of natural artfulness. Japanese beauty consists of the beauty of half-articulation and the beauty of articulation. While both Korea and Japan base their sense of beauty on nature, Korea emphasizes nature as it is while Japan values artful decorative elements. Especially in modern Korean fashion, the characteristic Korean aesthetics of un-artfulness appears in various expressive techniques such as the movement with natural gathering, the use of natural materials like cotton, the harmonization of black and white, and a simplified silhouette. In Japanese fashion, one can see techniques such as: the beauty of half-articulation expressed through the ambiguity of shapes, colors, and genders or simplicity and paucity using straight lines, the beauty of articulation expressed with bright flower prints and ornaments, accessories of Obi and feathers and the transformed silhouette.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.131-142
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• 1998

20세기 초반기에 왕성한 작품활동을 하여왔던 구수타브 클림트는 새로운 시대에 걸맞는 새로운 정신을 발휘하여 새로운 조형성을 추구하며 총체적인 개념으로 작품활동을 전개하였다. 클림트는 그의 작품을 통해 심미적인 요소를 추구하고자 하였으며 인간을 대우주안의 소우주로서 표출하였고, 우주만물의 생성과 죽음의 과정을 여성을 매개체로 표현하였다. 클림트의 패턴은 원, 삼각형, 그리고 나선형으로 나타난다. 원은 우주, 여성을 상징하고, 삼각형은 인간을 상징하며, 사각형은 지구와 남성을 상징한다. 나선형은 돌고 도는, 끌고 당기는 우주의 힘을 상징한다. 클림트는 음과 양, 곡선과 직선, 난색과 한색의 대비를 통하여 그의 상징성을 더욱 강화시켰다. 패턴과 색상의 사용법을 통하여 그의 우주관을 상징적으로 표현하였던 클림트의 작품은 이차원적인 성격을 매우 강하게 나타낸다. 상징성을 표출하기 위하여 장식적인 패턴의 정교함을 보여주었던 클림트의 작품은 패턴디자인에 자주 응용되어 오고 있다. 그의 작품은 홈 퍼니싱 용도와 어패럴 용도의 텍 스타일 디자인으로 응용되어 왔으며, 스테인드 글래스와 타일로 제작되어 실내를 장식하며 포스터나 악세사리 용품에 응용되어 대중들의 삶에 깊이 침투되어 왔다. 이러한 디자인들은 클림트의 패턴들의 특성을 살리면서 각 디자인용도에 부합되게 레이아웃과 기법을 달리하는 방법에서부터 클림트의 작품을 전반적으로 소화시켜 그 느낌을 간결히 추상화하여 표출하는 방법에 이르기까지 클림트의 작품이 다양하게 해석되어 응용되어 오고 있다. 본 논문은 클림트 작품에 나타난 패턴들을 연구함으로 패턴디자인의 새로운 창의적인 방향을 제시하고자 한다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권5호
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• pp.518-527
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• 2019

원주 법천사지(사적 제466호)에서 파편 상태로 출토된 치미의 제작기법을 조사하고 보존처리(복원)를 진행하였다. 치미의 제작기법 조사 결과는 동체부 제작, 날개부와 깃 부착, 장식부 제작, 상·하단 사절흔, 상·하단 연결을 위한 투공, 조형적 특징 등으로 나누어 서술하였다. 보존처리는 예비조사, 이물질 제거, 강화처리, 접합 및 복원, 색맞춤 순서로 진행하였다. 특히 접합 후 결손 부위의 원형 복원을 위해 3차원스캐닝 데이터를 활용하여 위치, 크기, 각도 등을 추정하였다. 복원한 치미는 높이 118 cm, 무게 121 kg에 이르는 대형 치미로서 이는 국내 완형(복원) 토제 치미 중 5번째로 큰 크기이다. 또한 깃이 뾰족한 형태의 치미는 현재까지의 국내에 알려진 유사 사례가 없어 희귀한 자료가 될 것으로 예상한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.563-573
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• 2009

This study analyzed the trends and aesthetic characteristics of fur design found in the contemporary fashion to examine the status of fur material in the contemporary fashion design, and through an analysis of the meaning it attempted to come up with a new viewpoint and form on material for the future fashion design. A literature review was used to explore the kinds and properties of furs. In addition, an empirical analysis of works that have appeared in fashion collections since the year 2000 was conducted with local and foreign fashion magazines such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode and other publications related to fashion collections. In the contemporary fashion, the trends of fur design are represented by use of various items, material combinations, application to decorative purposes(like trimmings, details, or accessories), and a wide range of colors and textures available by advanced dyeing and finishing techniques. The aesthetic values intrinsic to fur design are that the expression of conspicuous luxury covers even the qualitative aspect of luxury and adds fashionable images to casual items, contributing to the popularization of fur fashion, by using a variety of artificial furs; the expression of sensual feminine beauty allows the animal and primitive feel characteristic of furs to convert a feminine body into a sensual image of more than a simple biological impulse; and the expression of hybridity presents a new viewpoint through distortions, exaggerations, deviations from the existing constituent forms, or futuristic sensibilities in all elements of fashion design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.68-79
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• 2004

This study aims to understand the history of the Victorian age that attached importance to various designs and aesthetic aspects by art and craft movement, and to present that the Victorian pattern is a factor with unlimited possibility in application and development of the modern textile product designs. Therefore, through documents research home and abroad, I considered the periodical background of the Victorian style, a change course of textile, and the theoretical backing of the Victorian pattern, and I studied and analyzed the cases of being applied in the modern textile product designs by classifying apparel, home interior, and fashion accessories. First of all, in apparel, the Victorian pattern transformed into geometrical form had much relative importance, and secondly, in the home interior, the Victorian pattern was expressed realistically or it was represented more boldly and complexly with new materials or techniques introduced. Thirdly, in fashion accessories, decorative nature was shown in intense design with the real description of the Victorian flower pattern and brilliant colors. With these results, it was found out that when the Victorian pattern was applied in the modern textile product designs, it was the factor that could be expected to make a high value added suitable with the modern sense, and it was the pattern with developmental potential with its unlimited use range. Therefore, based on this study, it is considered that the development of textile product designs utilizing the Victorian pattern and academic research, reorganizing the Victorian pattern in accordance with the modern design should be continued.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.544-561
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• 2020

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2015

Fashion and architecture essentially have structure to build space for a form of three dimensions. This study defines the form in which structure in itself becomes design as structural simplicity and investigates design paying attention to only structure. It is one of efforts in order to display new design required in the age of a flood of design and it is considered that before developing design through the fusion of architecture and fashion, understanding structure which is the most fundamental element to constitute the form of the two genres will be a groundwork to develop proper fusion design. This study elucidates similarities between architecture and fashion through literature review and investigates structure meant in architecture and fashion, and after that, collects corresponding examples through related literature and fashion information site. For structural simplicity in architecture, structure of a building in itself is a form and decoration at the same time, and it appears as a form of minimizing other elements and stressing the structure only. Structure in fashion means composition line which essentially exists to embody two dimensional materials onto three dimensional human body. As elements of geometric lines are creatively expressed by a designer in order to constitute three dimensional form from structural simplicity, they connote a variety of functions and exert decorative effects as well. And the shape of structure expressed like this is employed as a tool to show off the designer's techniques.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.793-799
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• 2015

Hanboks have evolved throughout time; for example, the curved Barae has changed into a more modern and sophisticated straight one. The development of staining techniques has increased color selections with more luxurious designs. I suggested a design of Dolbok that considers functionality, practicality and economic feasibility through a comparison of past and present designs. I suggested a fusion Hanbok based on a traditional Dolbok for baby boys and girls. An abundance of cheap resources has decreased the tradition of hand down clothes; therefore, I created functional and economic methods to adjust a Hanbok for kids to wear a long time. First, I made it possible to adjust the length of a skirt by a slip stitch (or catch) stitch with a Seurandan (ornate lower band) and placed the button on shoulder part of the skirt for baby girls. The width of skirt is designed for a 4 year old instead of 1 year old to adjust the size and compensate for growing kids; however, the clothes still look stylish despite the overlapped area. Second, I made a baby boy's vest with a belt that follows traditional methods that were comfortable for width variation. Third, I made Geodeulji (sleeve-ends trimmed with wide bias) that enabled long or short sleeves. Geodeulji made with a variety of fabric colors will enhance the decorative effect. Fourth, I made the width of clothes adjustable by putting Korum (tie) ON Jeogori for baby boys and girls. There are many studies on Hanboks but few reports on modern Dolbok. I believe that designers should further study fusion Hanboks within framework of traditional Hanbok designs to increase comfort and appeal.